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Old 12-25-2015, 03:19 PM   #15
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Here's the installation manual for the 9301 drawer slides. These are the same slides I bought to use in my Argosy.

On my 310 I didn't get full extension slides and regretted it although even 2/3 open was sure great to work with. These slides appear to be 20" slides. I had two issues with the 2/3 opening slides that I used. The first was it was still a little difficult to get to the back side of the generator and second if I wanted to remove the generator I had to be careful how close I came with the pallet forks to the side of coach.

Your Kohler generator is 21-1/2" wide so I'd say these slides will be almost full extension and would probably work just fine, especially at that price!

I don't see the slide locks but that doesn't mean they aren't there. Even if the locks aren't present there are many ways to make sure the drawer doesn't try to slide close inadvertently.


Brad
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:21 PM   #16
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Bagan searching for the ignition system, and didn't find it... but I did find this! site that shows you how to convert any engine, and specifically mentions the K582.
Ignition Solutions for Small Engines and Garden Pulling Tractors
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:34 PM   #17
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Prior to the 310 going to it's new home I made a couple of the electrical mods to the generator that I feel are worth passing on.

The fuel pump is connected directly to the coil of the generator so when the ignition is on so is the fuel pump. The problem with this arrangement is the fuel pump (especially the original) has a fairly high current draw which drops the voltage at the coil when you're trying to start. Lower voltage at the coil means weaker spark which makes it harder to get the generator to start.

I had been trying to diagnose a hard start issue on the Kohler and checked the voltage at the coil while trying to start and it was between 9 & 10 vdc. Not enough voltage for a decent spark at the plugs. As a test I disconnected the fuel pump from the coil and hot wired it at the hot side of the starter solenoid so it ran all the time. Voltage at the coil was now 12 vdc and it started much faster.

So what I did was disconnect the feed wire at the pump and connected it to a relay. Now when you try to start the generator the relay energizes. I then took a heavy gauge wire and connected it to the hot side of the starter solenoid (the large battery cable connects to this terminal) and ran it to a Normally Open contact on the relay. The other side of the contact then went to the fuel pump. Now when you start/run the generator the relay energizes which turns on the fuel pump. This means there is no voltage drop at the ignition coil which helps starting.

The second thing I did was to add a push button in the generator compartment that you could push causing the relay to energize and runs the fuel pump. This allows you to fill the fuel bowl on the carburetor prior to starting the generator which means you don't have to crank the generator very long to get it to start. Prior to doing this I had to crank the generator long enough to get fuel to fill the carburetor bowl before the generator had fuel to start.

Less wear and tear on the generator starter this way. Which is not easy or cheap to change by the way!

I'll see if I took any pictures and I'll post them if I find them.


Brad
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:55 PM   #18
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That's a great mod, and I too have experienced that 9v power drop. This is now on my list.
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:07 PM   #19
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I just checked my 26" drawer slides and after comparing mine to the ones in the auction I believe the auction slides are 18" slides not 20" as I hinted at previously.

Here's a picture of my 26" slides. You can see the narrowest extension is 1" shorter than the full extension dimension.
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The auction slides have 17" on the narrow extension which is why I think they are 18" slides. So with the Kohler being 21-1/2" means you'll be 3-1/2" from having the entire genset outside of the compartment.

I was wrong, my slides are 9308 slides. The difference being my slides have locks to keep them open or closed. The auctions slides do not.
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Brad
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:37 PM   #20
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Here's a couple of pictures of the switch and relay installation. I didn't get fancy as I was working under a time crunch. When the push button energizes the pump it also back feeds power to the ignition coil and ignition points. This isn't really a problem but if you're concerned about something like that you can use a push button that has a set of Normally Open and a set of Normally Closed contacts. The close contacts could be put in the wire from the relay coil to the ignition coil. When you push the button the contacts would open and no power would go to the ignition system.

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On the oil pipe mod I had to notch the tray a little to clear the Tee so I added a little support to keep the tray from sagging. I think the real problem is the generator isolation mounts were probably sagging causing the pipe to sit lower than it really should be.
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Here's a couple of pictures of the slide mounting. I just used metal that I had on hand. There are probably a variety of other ways the slides could be mounted as well. This arrangement worked well for me.
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If you look closely at the two pictures above you'll see a bolt head in each corner of the tray. The holes were the existing holes where the tray originally bolted to the platform. I used bolts passing through the tray into the platform to keep the generator in place. In order to not put stress on the slides I slid spacers between the tray and the platform so when the bolts were tightened the slides weren't stressed.

By the way, it wasn't always the oily mess you see in the pictures. Back in 2007 when I added the drawer slides I cleaned up the oily mess and it was spotless inside the compartment. That oily mess occurred between 2007 and 2012 prior to me making the mod in to the oil fill pipe. Steve's mod to the pipe is well worth doing while you have easy access to everything!

Brad
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:41 PM   #21
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22" Is about right.



But I think mine were 20s.

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Old 12-25-2015, 10:54 PM   #22
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And here is my version...
Angle iron test fit...



Done.



Mine sits a little higher than Brad's due to the fact that I bolted the Genset tray to the slide center... But I am having issues with the fan cover hitting the slide under starts and stops, so I may need to space it a little.
Plan to do that when I pull the whole thing out to soundproof the compartments.
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Old 12-26-2015, 05:39 AM   #23
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Something else came to mind about the drawer slide conversion. The ground wire to the generator on my 310 had been from somewhere on the motor down to one of the studs at the front corner of the tray. You'll need to move the ground wire to point on the generator enclosure itself. You don't want the drawer slides to act as an electrical path so by moving the ground wire over to the enclosure itself that issue becomes a non issue.

Brad
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Old 12-26-2015, 06:49 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Couldn't see the size I used, but it might be in my oil leak thread.
Gunter, I suggest you check you genset for the common oil leak from the oil fill pipe/crankcase joint.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...eak-64381.html

While we are on this subject, I saw that an electronic ignition/point eliminator kits is/was available for this unit... Be interested to know more about that.

Also, gunter, could you post a few pics of your carb/coil area... i have some loose weird wires and pipes I would like to find a home for and need to compare!
Here are some pictures of the carb/coil area, let me know if you need additional to clarify your situation.
I had already installed a pushbutton bypass switch for activating the fuel pump prior to starting, did not use a relay.
I am still investigating slides, your comments, web site and pictures really helped. Still trying to justify the costs and modifications necessary vs the convenience.
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:12 AM   #25
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Thanks Gunter.
I will look closely at your setup and compare with mine!
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner View Post
Here are some pictures of the carb/coil area, let me know if you need additional to clarify your situation.
I had already installed a pushbutton bypass switch for activating the fuel pump prior to starting, did not use a relay.
The relay keeps the fuel pump from drawing down the voltage at the coil. Maybe not necessary but on mine it was extremely hard to start prior to the mod.

Quote:
I am still investigating slides, your comments, web site and pictures really helped. Still trying to justify the costs and modifications necessary vs the convenience.
My justification was being able to have the ability to service the genset while on the road. Once after installing the drawer slides I did have to remove the generator and take it to a shop for repairs. The job went faster

I just went and checked what I ordered for drawer slides for the 310 and they were listed as "Hettich KA3320 22" drawer slide, Full Extension, 22 in., Heavy Duty, 500 lb. Capacity, Zinc". Now it makes me wonder if I received the right drawer slides from Amazon! I need to see if I can track down any pictures that I have to figure out what's going on. I'll let you know what I figure out. I know the generator only came out of the enclosure 2/3 of the way.

Steve, does your generator come fully out of the enclosure when you pull it out?

Something I planned on doing but didn't do because of time constraints was to add 3-pole quick connect plugs between the electrical panel in the coach and the control box on the coach.

I purchased the following male plugs and female sockets along with some 10/3 rubber SO cord so that the generator could be unplugged without having to open up any electrical boxes just to remove the generator. One other advantage to having plugs and sockets like this is you can unplug one of the cords and plug an extension cord to use externally. Such as powering your house if you neighborhood loses power

Brad
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:16 AM   #27
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Do either of your Kohler generators still have the shutdown solenoid connected to the carburetor? I had to remove the one on mine as it was partially shorted inside causing high current draw on the ignition circuit which then caused the 10 amp ignition fuse to blow. Took me a while to figure that one out. I removed the solenoid (they are no longer available) and suffered no ill effects when turning off the generator.

Brad
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Old 12-26-2015, 08:35 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Do either of your Kohler generators still have the shutdown solenoid connected to the carburetor? I had to remove the one on mine as it was partially shorted inside causing high current draw on the ignition circuit which then caused the 10 amp ignition fuse to blow. Took me a while to figure that one out. I removed the solenoid (they are no longer available) and suffered no ill effects when turning off the generator.

Brad
Yes I still have mine, pictures attached.
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