It's time for an after shakedown cruise report on some work recently done.
The coach started blowing fuses in the glovebox fuse cluster, and the chassis batt shutoff switch stopped working. And the fuse for the low beam lights would blow when the lights were pulled on.
Most of us have had the fright of at least peeking behind the dash and wondering what it would take to sort out issues in that mess.
Well I started out by removing as many useless wires as I could. The warning lights that are hot glued to the back of the dash were mostly just hanging in space, and the were various other wires hanging bare ended in the spaghetti too. Most of those were either removed or capped off in place.
Then I replaced the light switch and the dimmer switch. This did not correct the problem, but felt good to do as that switch had felt quite warm/ hot during long night drives.
So moving on the the ignition switch came next. Once I pulled the plug off the back of that switch I was pretty sure I had found a problem as the plastic plug was very melted and a couple of wires had been hooked directly to the back of the switch where that part of the plug had melted away.
Amazing the sort of work that can come to light in these old rigs.
I fought for quite a while to get the ignition switch removed from the dash.
The tapered front bezel would unthread part way then tighten and stop unthread ing.
After a google search I uncovered that before removing the outer part of the switch it was nessisary to remove the inner part/ key tumbler of the switch first. This was done by using a paper clip to release a pin in the little hole in the face of the switch to let the key part to turn counterclockwise and then come out of the body of the switch. Once that was removed the bezel unthreaded nicely.
After installing the new switch and plug, all of the new electrical issues were resolved. Whew, closed up the dash and moved on to dealing with the headers.
One of the bungs on the left header had broken off and needed plugging. This required the removal of the header to have access to the spot that was to be welded. When I got the header off of the head I found that there was no gasket between the engine head and exhaust header. I posted here about that and learned that in some cases a gasket is not called for. But in this case there was evidence of blow by between the head and header. And as it turned out even more sign of blow by was found on the other side of the engine.
Humm, maybe this was the source of some of the fumes that showed up in the cab. And some of the excessive noise in the cab also. Having already replaced the donut gaskets at the collector to tail pipe connection. I had been puzzled about these issues.
After some thought I decided to reinstall with gaskets after getting the repair done on the one header. That all went back together nicely. And Both the air quality and noise are much better while driving now.
Last weekend I drove down to the Yuma area for a test run of almost 500 miles
Including some fairly steep long climbs, and happy to report that all is going well with these repairs. No problem with the gaskets blowing out, as was mentioned here, so far. And noticeably quieter running too.
Some worthwhile points from this job.
1. The inner wheels wells can be moved out of the way to get access to the side of the engine and header bolts fairly easily.
2 An impact tool is the way to get the header bolts removed without a fight.
3. The little pin hole in the face of the ignition switch is the key to easy removal.
Oh, I did install the new front wheel centermatics while I had the front wheels off,
I do notice a little roughness on cold start out, that smooths out at about 35 mph, then it's so nice and smooth. Thanks again Peter for pulling that together.
Sorry for the long post, just want to share details that could aid others going forward.