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Old 11-04-2012, 12:09 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Thanks for the info on the compressor Smartstream. However your compressor is drawing 19 amps at 12V. If I buy that one wiring direct from the batteries with a relay to the fuse block and a fuse upgrade will be a must.

I found the 20 amp fuse dead behind what seems to me a lot added wire from a PO. It was burnt and very faded. I replaced it and turned the ignition to acc, hoping for the buzzing of the compressor........what I got was a very healthy SNAP from the fuse block.
Plan B....Got my spare battery and hooked up the positive to the compressor and then touched a lead from the neg on the battery to the ground contact. The arcing was impressive with the wires starting to melt right away. The compressor didn't even budge. I then kept the compressor unhooked, replaced the fuse again, prayed and turned the key to acc. The fuse held so I don't have a short, just a crapped out compressor.

Please continue to send info on replacement compressors.

Thanks to all

I have to assume that even though you don't say that with your compressor disconnected you have 12 Volts at the disconnected wire. If that is the case you are in good shape. I don't know the amp rating of the factory compressor however running on a 20 amp fuse it must have been significant. As others have stated there is evidence of over heating and burning at the fuse block. With this in mind running from the battery through a relay using the original circuit to operate the relay would solve the problem.


As stated before I lean toward over kill so keep that in mind as you follow along. I have replaced many of the relays used on headlights and A/C systems that were burned just like the fuse block. So I used a continuous duty starter relay like you will find behind your batteries to connect the house to the chassis battery for starting. They are easy to find and cost about $25, just make sure you get one rated as continuous duty.


For the compressor as I have said before, if your system is in good shape, the compressor after filling the tank and air bags at start up should not need to run very often if at all. That does not mean that I want a minimal compressor. I like the 100% duty cycle at 100 PSI. If I choose to use the system to inflate the tires for example it will handle it. I believe the system is pretty much bullet proof so the few extra dollars are well spent.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 11-04-2012, 12:36 PM   #16
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Gets pretty confusing back there, especially with all the different opinions, does it not? Have you checked the pressure at the accumulator tank? Are the bags deflated? The compressor I have is a Gast, # ROA-P181JH. The replacement bush is # AJ896. I have a 25 amp in-line fuse back there, and it looks like 8/10 gauge wire. Air bag problems are not uncommon, I've seen 345s with outside air outlets for each bag so they could air without crawling underneath. Those compressors are not cheap, I think I paid $800.00 for mine, but it's lasted and lasted.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:38 PM   #17
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Quote:
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I have to assume that even though you don't say that with your compressor disconnected you have 12 Volts at the disconnected wire. If that is the case you are in good shape. I don't know the amp rating of the factory compressor however running on a 20 amp fuse it must have been significant. As others have stated there is evidence of over heating and burning at the fuse block. With this in mind running from the battery through a relay using the original circuit to operate the relay would solve the problem.


As stated before I lean toward over kill so keep that in mind as you follow along. I have replaced many of the relays used on headlights and A/C systems that were burned just like the fuse block. So I used a continuous duty starter relay like you will find behind your batteries to connect the house to the chassis battery for starting. They are easy to find and cost about $25, just make sure you get one rated as continuous duty.


For the compressor as I have said before, if your system is in good shape, the compressor after filling the tank and air bags at start up should not need to run very often if at all. That does not mean that I want a minimal compressor. I like the 100% duty cycle at 100 PSI. If I choose to use the system to inflate the tires for example it will handle it. I believe the system is pretty much bullet proof so the few extra dollars are well spent.

Good luck, Dan
I forgot my circuit tester at home when I went to check this morning so I will double check tomorrow before work that I have 12V to the disconnected wire coming from the compressor spring switch. (here's hoping but I don't see why not).

As for the relay, thanks for the info but since I'm a cabinetmaker and not a rocket scientist, I'm having a bit of a head scratch on how to wire it in.
I have the hot 20A wire coming from the fuse block to the compressor activation switch in the aft compartment, right. When the switch detects air below a certain threshold it trips and starts to draw power from that hot wire. SO, to divert power draw from the fuse block to the batteries themselves I interupt that line in the aft compartment, just before the switch with a relay, with another line travelling to an inline fuse and then the batteries. SO when the switch trips, it starts to suck power from the line leading to the fuse block, tripping the relay, allowing for power to be drawn from the batteries directly through another fuse. Correct????

See link below and please suggest a possible relay. Thanks

http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

Please excuse my ignorance, but electricity, computers, wives and daughters are completely foreign alien beasts to me; although I have done all the electrical in my house and it hasn't burn't down yet, so there is hope.
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Old 11-04-2012, 02:45 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Gets pretty confusing back there, especially with all the different opinions, does it not? Have you checked the pressure at the accumulator tank? Are the bags deflated? The compressor I have is a Gast, # ROA-P181JH. The replacement bush is # AJ896. I have a 25 amp in-line fuse back there, and it looks like 8/10 gauge wire. Air bag problems are not uncommon, I've seen 345s with outside air outlets for each bag so they could air without crawling underneath. Those compressors are not cheap, I think I paid $800.00 for mine, but it's lasted and lasted.
Hi Mike, glad you're still around.

I did open the tank drain and it was empty and yes the bags are at their lowest level, (it was a bumpy ride back from Ohio). I want to get this system working correctly, as someone stated with the levelling valve, it constantly dumps and adds air depending on gasing up or running empty.

Thanks for the compressor info. My current one is just a single stage air bag compressor like the Viair one Smartstream has, (probably not as robust though) but definately not a V-twin compressor.

Thanks again.
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Old 11-04-2012, 03:04 PM   #19
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Unless "others" have worked on the coach, spring shop that works on Fire Dept. chassis or a Peterbuilt shop would (and has been) my choice. While you're at it, have them align the coach and check those crappy front coil springs.I don't know, also, if your "mechanic" even knew how to adjust the leveling valve.
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Old 11-04-2012, 04:51 PM   #20
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Hi Mike

My shop is a heavy equipement shop dealing in IH products, so they know about air systems, just a little lazy at not checking the compressor first IMHO. My bad for not checking it first before taking it in.
The front end was completely rebuilt in Aug of this year by the PO. New ball joints, springs, air bags and one new bell crank idler. All parts are Supersteer and so is the new bell crank I have coming from Oregan for the other side that wasn't changed. Hopefully they performed the motorhome alignment when they did the work. It does track straight and true with minimal play in the steering.
Thanks for the Gast compressor. I did punch in the number but it wasn't recognised by the Gast website so I have e-mailed their tech dept to see if numbers have changed and hopefully they will send me some info on a suitable compressor.

Thanks again
Tony
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:09 PM   #21
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Thanks for the Gast compressor. I did punch in the number but it wasn't recognised by the Gast website so I have e-mailed their tech dept to see if numbers have changed and hopefully they will send me some info on a suitable compressor.
It was in '99 that my Gast was installed, so I assume the number might have changed. You might tell them it was spec'd from Airstream. Dan is correct, you want a compressor that is capable of at least 110 psi. When you get the coach spic and span, come on down out of the winter to Ajo, AZ and visit us.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:29 PM   #22
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Mike

Did a bit more digging and found a Gast ROA DC replacement, looks good but this has me drooling . I might replace my motor A/C (which doesn't work anyway) and is useless from what everyone has told me. SWEET.

EndlessAir Compressor

Thanks for the invite....woke up yesterday to find 1" of snow in my yard and the coach not winterized yet, ARRGH. Luckily for me it hadn't snowed where the coach was so I did the winterizing thing. Feel much better now.

Your coach looks in far better shape than mine I think.
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Old 11-04-2012, 05:45 PM   #23
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Your coach looks in far better shape than mine I think.
Given we've had Bess almost twenty years, she gets her wax three or four times a year (in between beer breaks). The old timer purists hate me, but I replaced my air bag system with Haldex levelers and got rid of the crappy switch in the rear compartment. The re-wiring for a modern hi-low switch was a challenge, but they work to this day, and the bags are easily adjusted.
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Old 11-04-2012, 07:20 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
I forgot my circuit tester at home when I went to check this morning so I will double check tomorrow before work that I have 12V to the disconnected wire coming from the compressor spring switch. (here's hoping but I don't see why not).

As for the relay, thanks for the info but since I'm a cabinetmaker and not a rocket scientist, I'm having a bit of a head scratch on how to wire it in.
I have the hot 20A wire coming from the fuse block to the compressor activation switch in the aft compartment, right. When the switch detects air below a certain threshold it trips and starts to draw power from that hot wire. SO, to divert power draw from the fuse block to the batteries themselves I interupt that line in the aft compartment, just before the switch with a relay, with another line travelling to an inline fuse and then the batteries. SO when the switch trips, it starts to suck power from the line leading to the fuse block, tripping the relay, allowing for power to be drawn from the batteries directly through another fuse. Correct????

See link below and please suggest a possible relay. Thanks

relays continuous duty 12 volt & 24 volt DC power relays,starter relays

Please excuse my ignorance, but electricity, computers, wives and daughters are completely foreign alien beasts to me; although I have done all the electrical in my house and it hasn't burn't down yet, so there is hope.
Electricity is simple, just read some of the teachings of the Prince of Darkness, Mr. Lucas. Then you will understand all.

I would use this relay mainly because it was at the top of the list and has the key word, "continuous duty" which simply means you can operate it continuously without it overheating or failing.


15-132
SAS-4201
Your Cost
$35.50


The wiring is fairly simple, mount the relay as close to the battery as possible and connect a 10 ga. or better yet a 8 ga. wire from + battery to one of the large terminals on the relay. A fuse or circuit breaker would go in this wire. The other large terminal uses the same heavy ga. wire to the pressure switch at the compressor.

The 12 Volt wire that comes from the 20 amp fuse, the one you removed from the pressure switch, now goes on one of the small terminals on the relay. The other small terminal is connected to ground.

The relay is simply a heavy duty switch that is operated by a coil activating an electromagnetic plunger. The large terminals are the wires to the switch and the small terminals go to the coil that operates the switch. This coil is a very small electrical load. What you are doing is using the old compressor wire to operate this small coil and letting the relay do the heavy work operating the compressor. By the way the pressure switch by the compressor is also a type of relay operated by air pressure instead of a coil/electromagnetic plunger.

I hope this helps,

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:39 AM   #25
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Not sure if it is relevent for the 82/3, but my 84 has a GAST 2HBC compressor which looks original.



I cannot find the exact model on Gast's site, but it looks like it is rated at 2.1CFM and 100psi.
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Old 11-05-2012, 11:59 AM   #26
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It's interesting that it's powered through a relay, do you know if that is factory or an add on? If it's factory it certainly is an improvement over the 20 amp fuse in the fuse block used in the earlier coaches.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:06 PM   #27
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Also interesting is they moved all the electricals into a dry compartment, rather than hanging them out to take moisture in the rear roadside fold-down. The compressor looks just like mine.
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Old 11-05-2012, 12:19 PM   #28
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For reference, my compressor is mounted under the vanity cabinet, just fwd of the rear curbside corner. Its not easily accessable, as it is behind a screwed on coverc
Who knows if it is as original...
From left to right, the componants are relay, pressure regulator, and on the right, the grey box against the wall is a pressure switch I think.

I think its a single piston unit, but I admit, I did not reach around the fwd side to check, but I will!

Judging by the stains on the floor, I don't think it is as dry as it should be Mike!
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