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Old 11-30-2009, 07:44 PM   #29
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
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Better would always be good !!!

Gear vendors over under drive does help some ???

We drove from Columbus Ohio to RoseDale W.V. , east of Spencer, for Thanksgiving with the 4 G.C. !! then back to Columbus and then down to Jamestown Ky. with a 8 by 16 ft enclosed 3,500 Lb trailer.

G.V. plus Banks power Pack gives us about 5 to 6 MPG through the Hills at 60 to 65 MPH
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Old 12-02-2009, 07:26 AM   #30
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cc, the real equation is about the rpm's the engine is turning. What is the engine at with the GV engaged and doing 70 mph?

I'm not surprised about the mileage you reported dragging the trailer.

The faster you go the more aerodynamic drag you create.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:22 AM   #31
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Accidentally hit the button before I was finished LOLNow, driving habbits GREATLY affect fuel mileage!!!! You can NEVER drive the rig as efficeintly as the cruise control, especially on terrain with even minor hills or fluctuations. This can add a full 1 MPG or more depending on how you drive. So use the cruise control whenever, and as much as, it's safe to do so.Secondly, each 1 MPH over 50 MPH will reduce your fuel mileage by .1 - .2 MPG. IE - running 60MPH will reduce your fuel mileage by a full 1 MPG or more depending on the rig and where you are running. Secondly, when the secondaries open up on the carburetor (making it operate on all 4 barrels instead of 2), your fuel mileage will drop exponentially! The faster you go, the more air you have to push (ie - wind resistance increases with speed), and this drastically decreases fuel mileage. Example - I have one rig that will get 8 MPG at 55 MPH, but at 70 MPH it only gets 6.2 MPG. I have another rig that will get 6.9 MPG at 55 MPH, but at 70 MPH it only gets 5.5 MPG. Speed is the biggest enemy of fuel mileage. If you noticed, when the fuel prices shot up, most of the tractor trailers slowed way down.Take care of your mechanical problem first, then adjust your speed and driving habbits to maximize your fuel mileage. Running 75 MPH is dangerous because the brakes will start to fade long before you come to a complete stop. Brake fade is caused by the brake drums/discs and brake shoe/pads heating up. The brakes are designed to change the kinetic energy of the vehicles motion in to heat. Thd hotter everything gets, the less heat that can be created, result in lessening the transfer of kinetic energy. Simply put, the hotter the brakes get, the less ability you will have to stop. I'm not lecturing you on speed or safety, just keep this in the bavk of your mind at all times.OK, it's 01:30, so I'm going to bed. Keep us posted on what you find out is wrong with your rigTony
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:25 AM   #32
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As an owner of Road Tractors, there's a couple things to look at.1) are the tires properly inflated,? Improper inflation creates drag, and excess heat - which can lead to a blow out2) gear ratio in the rear, final drive gear of the transmission, and tires size. The rig's engine has a point where it most efficiently operates. If the rig is set up to pull hills, 55 MPH may be your most fuel efficient speed. If it's set up for highway running, your engine RPM will be lower or about the same at 65 MPH as a rig set up for pulling hills is at 55 MPH. 2 of my trucks have rear ends geared at 3.73:1 These trucks pull the hills better than the third, which is geared st 3.52:1. However, the third gets better fuel mileage than the other 2 at 65 MPH. All 3 trucks have the same transmission final drive ratios. The tires size, as well as the amount of wear on them, affects your engine RPM, and overall fuel mileage, as well. My one tig pulls a dedicated run 52 weeks a year. When the tires are new the trip is 392 miles. But when the tires are close to the end of their life the trip is 412 miles. As the tires wear, the engine doesn't have to work as hard because the distance you travel in one revolution of the tire decreases.3) Aerodynamics - you're driving a large windsail. To demobstrate the theory (use your head and be safe); stick your hand out of the car window at 55 MPH. Keep your fingers straight. Turn your hand palm down to the ground, keeping your arm and parallel to the road. Now keeping your arm in the exact same position, point your hand down at a 45 degree angle. Notice the difference? It's the same principal of your car versus your rig. It takes so much more effort to push through that much air. Also, weight has a lot to do with it. Always dump your tanks before you leave to lessen the weight, and increase fuel mileage. The heavier the rig, the more effort it takes to move it up even the smallest incline.Now, this is the really important part. You mentioned the engine smoking. The total miles on the rig affect the amount of wear on the engine, but what affects it most is the maintenance. There's no way to tell what the PO did, or how they drove it. Start with a d,simple compression test on the engine. There should be no more than 10 PSI differencd from the highest to the lowest numbers on all the cyllanders. If there is, you have something wrong on 1 or more cyllanders. To find out what the compression numbers should br you'll have to look up the engine by year, make, and size. Now, don't panic if there is, it could be something as simple as a burnt valve. If this is the problem, it will severely impavt your fuel mileageNext, if it's blue smoke only at start up, your valve guides or seals could be bad. Either is an easy fix. The seals become brittle from the heat, and lack of use, so that's a common problem. While this won't directly affect your fuel mileage, it will indirectly by fouling your plugs with a carbon build up, causing an incomplete burn of the fuel.If it's black smoke, you could have a choke, or other carburetor issue. This creates a couple of problems; 1) fouling of the plugs, 2) improper mixing of the fuel, 3) dumping too much fuel, creating a too rich fuel mixture. All of these conditions will cause fouling of the plugs, improper/ibcomplete burning of the fuelm snd fouled plugs - all of which will desttoy your fuel mileage.Improper maintenance - something as simple ad a tune up - replacing the cao, rotor, plugs, wires, and air filter (VERY IMPORTANT & OFTEN OVERLOOKED). Also, replace the coil if you can afford it. They have a usable lifespan before they deteriorate and the voltage starts dropping.You definitely have a mechanical problem of soome kind, but some checks will need to be performed to determine what needs to be done.
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Old 12-03-2009, 12:31 AM   #33
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Forgive my typos. I don't own a computer, and since I hit the wrong button it posted before I spell checked it. Also, I can't edit a post from this phone - I'm guessing the mobile software isn't fully compstable with the server software.
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