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Old 02-17-2010, 09:40 PM   #57
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Talking Battery Tray Repair

Brad:
I have the Suburban 34000 BTU ordered to replace the inop 30000 BTU under the sink in my 310. Supposed to be the same physical size just 4000 more BTUs to help keep us comfy. Easiest way to get it in and out under the cabinet is to use a bottle jack and lift the cabinet ever so slightly for clearance. Looks like I will be facing a battery box rebuild in the future as mine is in bad shape due to acid and poor maintenance. Another project in view! Woohoo!! I will make it deeper to accomodate the golf cart batteries for max dry camping amperage.

Mike
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:48 AM   #58
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Brad, do you have contact details for Colaws? although I suspect if they do have seats and trim I am after, shipping to the UK could be another storey!
I too prefer to "wrap-round" effect/type dash but 'er-indoors likes the modern look .... Who am I to argue ... with the (Boss)?
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:22 AM   #59
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Brad:
I have the Suburban 34000 BTU ordered to replace the inop 30000 BTU under the sink in my 310. Supposed to be the same physical size just 4000 more BTUs to help keep us comfy. Easiest way to get it in and out under the cabinet is to use a bottle jack and lift the cabinet ever so slightly for clearance.
If it really is the same physical size that will be great. I've had mine out for about 2 years now and we've been using small 1500 watt ceramic heaters to keep us warm. But we are going somewhere in early april where we may not have shore power available so having a furnace will be a must.

The bottle jack tip will be handy on re-install because I just colapsed the old unit taking it out.

Quote:
Looks like I will be facing a battery box rebuild in the future as mine is in bad shape due to acid and poor maintenance. Another project in view! Woohoo!! I will make it deeper to accomodate the golf cart batteries for max dry camping amperage.
I was sorely tempted to just replace the floor with another piece of flat metal which would have made it a quick and easy job to repair. But Guy's advice on the golf cart batteries (or other larger batteries) made a lot of sense. Better to allow for larger batteries just in case. I didn't want this to be a case of hind sight .

If you want or need more info on how I did my box upgrade let me know.

Brad
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Old 02-18-2010, 06:41 AM   #60
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Brad, do you have contact details for Colaws? although I suspect if they do have seats and trim I am after, shipping to the UK could be another storey!
I too prefer to "wrap-round" effect/type dash but 'er-indoors likes the modern look .... Who am I to argue ... with the (Boss)?
Colaws mainly deals in the box type RVs but they do have a fair number of airstream trailers and once in a great while they might have an airstream motorhome. As a matter of fact last time there there were several of the later fiberglass airstream motorhomes there. One of those might be a seat donor for you. If nothing else they should be able to provide you with powered seat mechanisms from just about any motorhome. They should be pretty much the same. No need to ship the whole seat over when you should be able to bolt about any seat to the motorized assembly.

COLAW RV PARTS & SALVAGE | WE HAVE YOUR PART!

I understand not arguing with the Boss . I'm responsible for the outside of the motorhome and mechanicals, the Boss is responsible for interior design and upkeep. Works for me .
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:33 AM   #61
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Brad:
I have the 34000 BTU Suburban ordered to replace the 30000 BTU under the sink in our 310. The physical size is the same just more BTUs to keep us toasty. Use a bottle jack under the cabinet an raise it ever so slightly to facilitate remopval and installation of the furnace.

Mike
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Old 02-19-2010, 03:48 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by kmpro View Post
Brad:
I have the 34000 BTU Suburban ordered to replace the 30000 BTU under the sink in our 310. The physical size is the same just more BTUs to keep us toasty. Use a bottle jack under the cabinet an raise it ever so slightly to facilitate remopval and installation of the furnace.

Mike
It's a good idea to go the same or bigger. When the rear heater malfunctioned I replaced it with a smaller BTU Suburban. Works great, but runs longer. With shore power, no problem, but without the longer run time eats the battery faster.
mel
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:01 PM   #63
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Smile Battery Tray Repair

Mel:
I am glad I got the 34000 BTU, It keeps us really warm and toasty. The xtra 4000 BTUs makes a big difference. Home warm home.

Mike
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Old 12-11-2010, 06:13 AM   #64
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Just found this thread... Nice job!
Did you take any pics of the final job?

I was over at my rig yesterday, and found the house batteries dead... Must have left something on...


So I pulled the 2 house batts out and brought them home... So, I have a hole or 2 in my tray too... and the RH(fwd) hold down has cracked the tray bottom..


When I got the House batts home, they were dead.. 6v showing. I put them on a 2amp charge regime for a few days. after the 3rd cycle, they are up to 12.6V... I hope I can save them for now.
I think I will buy a desulfator too.

I have a couple of questions for you more experienced peeps!
The batteries I have are about 9" deep, and from my research I note that 6V batteries are 12" deep, so I would have to drop the base by 3" or so to fit them?
I was also wondering... is there any reason why the back wall of the compartment could not be moved all the way to the back of the sidewalls?
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Old 12-26-2013, 04:23 PM   #65
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Brad, how did you fasten the new battery box to the front of the aluminum fascia? If you have the time can you show a more detailed picture. I need to do mine, want to also drop the box but trying to decide how to handle the extra lockable storage box that is part of the battery box assembly/drawer.
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Old 12-26-2013, 05:26 PM   #66
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Hi Gunner!

Don't remember how Brad did his, but here was my take on it...

I started off thinking I would just need a floor...




Drilled out the rivets...



Cut out the scrap..




Done..



Began to see it was gonna be more... The divider was rusted thin about an inch up... as was the other walls...



I began to formulate a plan... as 6v's were the goal.

This was what I started with...


Then a plan to bend some sheet steel...


But I ended up going sheet steel/angle iron/1" tube custom fabrication on my bench...




Only the front face and side walls were retained from the original.




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Old 12-26-2013, 05:41 PM   #67
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Battery test fit.


Without the tool box divider, and start battery, I could fit 8 x 6v's in here...


Welded in some floor stiffeners.




Everything tacked and electrics test fitted..



Drawer front stripped and polished.





Added a vertical tie...


Primered...


Bedlinered.


The 500lb drawer slides I used are deeper than the originals...


Which means I had to mod the mountings..
Added a 2" stip.




Done.




I hope that gives you a good overview of my mod...
The 500lb slides are only rated for 300lb in mobile applications, so when I add more, I am planning to add a second set of slides...

Like this..
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Old 12-27-2013, 07:45 AM   #68
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Brad, how did you fasten the new battery box to the front of the aluminum fascia? If you have the time can you show a more detailed picture. I need to do mine, want to also drop the box but trying to decide how to handle the extra lockable storage box that is part of the battery box assembly/drawer.
Gunter,

I only had to replace the bottom of my battery tray. Where the bottom fastened to the front section that rivets to the fascia I stitch welded in small 1/2" welds and let things cool before doing a few more welds. Worked fine for me.

If you have to replace the front section you'll need to find some aluminum rivets. Looking at Keyair's pictures it looked like he replaced his rivets. Hopefully he will chime in where he got them.

Is your battery box so bad that the sides and front are not usable? I did have to repair my sides a little but nothing serious. The back wall of my box had to be sectioned a little also but again it was still salvageable.

I'll try and get a picture later today.

Brad
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Old 12-27-2013, 12:32 PM   #69
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For the time being I used 1/2" long SS button headed cap screws to secure the curved panel to the steel tray on the lower edge. I had them already and it seemed like a good idea at the time. I now know that SS, alu and steel sandwiched together might be an issue!

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Old 12-28-2013, 05:47 AM   #70
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My sides are still intact and usable, I will have to replace the whole bottom of the tray. Thinking of having someone forming the bottom with the front lip at an angle than a 90 degree bend to drop down 2" bending another 90 to go to the back and bending up a 90 to overlap the existing back panel and welding together. Then add sides welding the bottom to the new metal and the top to the existing sides. Will weld angle iron stiffeners to the bottom and have them come up part way up the sides also. I will make the bottom and sides out of 11 gage, easier to weld rather than the thin steel airstream used. I will have to weld the 11 gauge to the thin metal. If I can't get the bottom formed out of one piece I will have to weld and piece together the various angles to make the bottom. I do have the necessary MIG and TIG welders and Plasma Cutter.
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