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Old 04-09-2010, 07:11 PM   #1
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Battery Isolator

I need to replace my Battery Isolator in my 1984 Motorhome 345. Those who replaced theirs what specifications did you purchase? My assumption is they come in different amperage etc. I just found mine was defecive tonight, loose studs in the isolator, gets very hot. Tightening will not fix this.
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Old 04-09-2010, 08:09 PM   #2
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Not really sure if this will still function as an Isolator but I seem to remember someone else here either couldn't find one or decided just not to use one as they replaced it with a continous duty solenoid. I did a search for you but was unable to find the thread, maybe you or someone else will have better luck finding it (was a long time back) as it did give detailed instructions on the conversion. Might be something to consider if Isolater is NLA.
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Old 04-10-2010, 05:51 AM   #3
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"isolators" as in the solenoids behind the steps...or the just-inside-the-steps-and-forward, on-the-curbside-wall switches? We have replaced the solenoids(both fried at the same time), and have had the switch board repaired...the solenoids are an easy find, the board is not so easy...
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:47 AM   #4
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battery drain

Having replaced both the selonoid switches that are connected to wall switch (and attached to the battery drawer assembly), I still will deplete the engine battery if left on in 4-5 days without charging (running the gen or engine). Easiest solution is to knock off the engine switch after setting down at a camp site. Have been told that the isolater is not easy to replace and to identify the drain is a real pain to detect.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:31 AM   #5
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I am using one of these in a van camper I am building. The battery separator connects the two banks after the coach battery is recharged.

https://bluesea.com/category/2/productline/388
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:13 AM   #6
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From post #1, to be sure gunner and I are talking of the same Battery Isolator I added a picture of what's on my 3345LE. Mine is located on driver's side under the 'hood'. I do remember of a post here from a while back where someone replaced this with a solenoid but I can't remember the title of thread, nor can I find it now. I'm sure it's here somewhere.

Another 'old timers' bonus for me. Hoping someone else here can direct us to the post??
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:33 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 345bill View Post
From post #1, to be sure gunner and I are talking of the same Battery Isolator I added a picture of what's on my 3345LE. Mine is located on driver's side under the 'hood'. I do remember of a post here from a while back where someone replaced this with a solenoid but I can't remember the title of thread, nor can I find it now. I'm sure it's here somewhere.

Another 'old timers' bonus for me. Hoping someone else here can direct us to the post??
Now that's a diode based battery isolator. they come in different capacities.
West Marine came up with nothing. Blue sea uses relays which will work but you will have to reset your voltage regulator lower due to the lack of diode drop.
her we go:
Super Start 08771 - Battery Isolator | O'Reilly Auto Parts
I have one I am not using. She is pretty beefy. If I can find it. I will let you know the specs.
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Old 04-10-2010, 10:41 AM   #8
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Ordered a 120 Amp Battery Isolator manufactured by Sure Power from O'Reilly. I am hoping 120 Amp is sufficient. One issue of concern is since mine is a 1984 Motorhome I need it to be compatible with a two wire alternator, instead of the CS Alternators that are on 1985 and newer. O'Reilly literature was not clear enough on what the applications were. The one I ordered looks just like the one in the picture that 345bill has in his reply to my post. I believe the small post connection is for newer CS Alternators.
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Old 04-10-2010, 11:10 AM   #9
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It has been a while since I used one of the diode isolators when I added a deep cycle battery to my Dodge van, but 120 Amp still sounds big enough to me. Do you know how many amps your alternator puts out?

I can't help with the small post. I have no experience with that.
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:48 AM   #10
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A simple, cheap solution might be to attach a cut-off switch to the positive pole of the chassis battery...
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