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Old 06-10-2014, 05:48 PM   #1
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battery drawer reconstruction - Stainless steel?

Hi All,

I just pulled my rusty battery box today. It was super rusty and getting dangerous.

My plan is to have a new box built out of stainless steel sheets. For structural members I'll either use fiberglass or aluminum.

Before I proceed, I thought I'd see if you all had any thoughts on using stainless steel for this application? I will need to rivet between stainless and aluminum.

Thanks very much,

Nick
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:04 PM   #2
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Honestly,
Don't know how well stainless steel and aluminum will react being bonded to each other. Metals of different types tend to 'react', usually having a corrosive effect.
I'd definitely check with a metal working shop for their advise.
Any thoughts KeyAir?
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Old 06-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #3
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Someone else did a post on reconstructing his slide out drawer battery box. You might want to search the motorhome forms to see if you can locate it.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:44 PM   #4
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I'd consider laying one up with fiberglass.
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Old 06-10-2014, 07:59 PM   #5
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Between stainless and aluminium, aluminum loses (corrodes).
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Old 06-10-2014, 08:59 PM   #6
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Detailed reasons why not to do what you propose:

Galvanic corrosion - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

So if you live in the salt belt or near the sea, you will get salt residue, then the first rain will create an electrolyte slurry on the exterior pieces, the next thing you know, you now have current, and your steel is destroying your aluminum. The Navy's newest ship is having trouble due to steel and aluminum being mated together.

If you are in a dry climate and never plan to go to the salt belt, or the ocean your chances are reduced. personally I would not do it.
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:44 PM   #7
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Why not rebuild it out of aluminum?
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Old 06-10-2014, 09:53 PM   #8
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battery drawer reconstruction - Stainless steel?

Right now it is steel riveted to aluminum and it has lasted how long now?

If i was making the box i would reconstruct the box with 18 or 20 ga. sheet using my metal brake to add structure.

I would use steel or stainless steel and not worry about it again for the next twenty years or so.
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Old 06-11-2014, 01:31 AM   #9
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Just found a previous thread on this:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...air-57991.html
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:06 PM   #10
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I am having the same issue with my battery box. Just had a buddy make me a bottom section out of stainless. I agree there is a definite possiblility of electrolosys but I am with you on the original contruction was with mild steel anyways. I'd say if it is a real possibility in your climate, isolate the parts where the ferris and non ferris metals join with battery terminal protectant or some kind of sealant. Make sure its a good coating cause you wouldn't want to trap moister inside. Just a thought....
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:25 PM   #11
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Ever notice all the stainless steel hatches,flaps, and doors Airstream sells at the factory store and online for their trailers as add ons?
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Old 06-14-2014, 07:35 AM   #12
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Switz: Sarcasm does not translate well in text. It lacks the personal touch of non-verbal communication. To answer your question: Yes I have. They also come with gaskets to isolate them from each other.

Team,

You can do what you want, it's your moho. The fact remains it's not a matter of 'if' you will experience negative effects by combining the two, but "when." Assess your situation and assume the level of risk you desire.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:10 AM   #13
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fix as you wish, then prevent it a 2 time, Replace bat witl a AGM they are sealed.
I put a sheet of ruber under bat, ( i use lifeline bats )
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:12 AM   #14
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That is not a sarcastic comment. Every one of those stainless steel accessories is attached using either screws or pop rivets. Are the fasteners aluminum or stainless? They touch the stainless device and go into the aluminum skin or frame member. So the corrosion issue might move to the fasteners which are out of sight and out of mind until the device falls off.
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Old 06-14-2014, 08:45 AM   #15
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If a repair can be made with parity with the original build and last 25 years, in most cases that will do.
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Old 06-14-2014, 10:48 AM   #16
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Switz: My apologies.
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:03 AM   #17
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Thanks for all the comments. One question I have is, what is the diameter of the rivets used on these drawers? I will have to replace at least one row of Olympic rivets.

Thanks, Nick
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Old 07-30-2014, 02:35 PM   #18
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Stainless Tub or Battery drawer

I had a slightly deeper drawer built of stainless 8 years ago and it is doing fine. I had the fabricator leave all four corners open for drainage and ventilation. Here is a good opportunity to make it tall enough to accommodate golf cart 6v batteries for your house bank. I did not think about that until it was already completed. The connection to the frame of the drawer is high and not likely to suffer corrosion problems at all.
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Old 07-30-2014, 03:50 PM   #19
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I agree with 'Wolfe' (Replace bat with a AGM's they are sealed.)

Get rid of drawer (you don't need to slide out to service every 30 days), permanently mount inside and use outside drawer end for a door. Extra cost of AGM's will be paid for from unneeded extra work rebuilding drawer, they will last longer, give better service and you don't have to worry about loosing them if you forget to service them on time. I replaced mine with AGM and wouldn't ever go back.
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Old 07-31-2014, 08:39 AM   #20
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Custom external stainless a steel battery box for four Lifeline act 300-amp hour batteries. There is an insulating rubber strip between the aluminum of the trailer and the battery box.
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