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Old 01-16-2011, 11:14 PM   #21
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1982 28' Airstream 280
Venice , California
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Great counsel, Dan. I didn't stop to notice you had a 280 until just now!

A while back, I replaced my old fuse box in the rear with a new one. I have about 6 free circuits, so I drew a dedicated line to the compressor and put in a 30a fuse. In fact the only part of this setup that I feel good about is the 12v portion.

Thx for the heads up on the overinflation. No gauge in the system right now and I was winging it. I'll back 'em down. Of note, I did get conflicting info on the ride height. I've heard 8 3/4 and 10 1/2. Apparently there was a switch in design around '82 or '83. And mine is an '82/'83. So, confused on that one...

I'll have to trace all the air lines and get back to you. But your guesses are probably spot on. In fact, I'm getting excited about getting this all up and running again. If nothing else, I'm going to have a nice ~8-10gal tank on board to drive some tools and a compressed air nozzle--great for quick cleanups.

Oh, the 'conduit' isn't pvc. See pic...flying my colors, at night
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:08 AM   #22
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Not a problem, it seems like everybody who gets one of these 280's has the same problems at about the same time. When Vinnie (Airslide) was working on Tin Crumpets 280, every problem he had I had just been through the same thing on mine. We are all here to help each other. If you check out Tin Crumpet's thread about this time last year you will find lots of good stuff.

The ride height did change from 8 3/4" to 10 1/2" in '83 from what I understand. American Equip. told me 10 1/2" but it didn't look right. I think Greg or Andy at Inland RV told me to try 8 3/4" and it looked a lot better. If you can find a semi running around look behind and between the rear drive tires and you can see how the air bags ride. Most of the highway trucks have air ride and you can pull up along side and watch the bags work going down the highway.

If you took your 12V from the fuse box inside the coach you may be using the coach batteries instead of the engine battery. If it is not switched with the ignition key it should be. If not and you forget, it will run the battery down when parked for storage.

Now that you are into the system you can see how simple it is. The leveling valves seldom fail but they will start to leak with age. The bags last a long long time. The worst thing was the compressors as they were pretty anemic compared to what is available today. The check valves can fail with dirt and corrosion build up so make sure you provide an easy means to drain the water out of the tank. Truckers drain their tanks daily. Try to mount the check valve high in the system to keep it dry, if near the compressor the heat will help to dry some of the moisture.

OK it looks like PVC but if not what is it for? My coach has everything inside the frame rails rather than underneath.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:30 AM   #23
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I don't worry too much about running off the coach battery. I have a group 8D hooked up with 660 watts of solar. And when I stop for any length of time, I pull the guillotine blades on both coach and engine batteries and kill all power to the Airstream.

The 'PVC' pipes are not pipes. They are neon light bars that run under the vehicle. White, red and blue light bars, each about 36" long. Thus the photo above
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:38 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by dalefox View Post
I don't worry too much about running off the coach battery. I have a group 8D hooked up with 660 watts of solar. And when I stop for any length of time, I pull the guillotine blades on both coach and engine batteries and kill all power to the Airstream.

The 'PVC' pipes are not pipes. They are neon light bars that run under the vehicle. White, red and blue light bars, each about 36" long. Thus the photo above
OK now I get it. You see I'm quite color blind so it just didn't register.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-17-2011, 02:48 PM   #25
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Dan beat me to it (as usual), those bags looked waay overinflated! Just to stir the pot, I've got both the '82 & '83 Service Manuals; they both say, " The ideal height for all around ride and clearance is 10" measured from the top of the air bag support beam to the bottom of the main frame chassis rail." I measure the distance from level surface to the bottom edge of the wheel well trim every once in a while to see how I'm doing. By the book, it should not vary more than a 1/4" side to side.
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Old 01-18-2011, 01:26 AM   #26
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Dan beat me to it (as usual), those bags looked waay overinflated! Just to stir the pot, I've got both the '82 & '83 Service Manuals; they both say, " The ideal height for all around ride and clearance is 10" measured from the top of the air bag support beam to the bottom of the main frame chassis rail." I measure the distance from level surface to the bottom edge of the wheel well trim every once in a while to see how I'm doing. By the book, it should not vary more than a 1/4" side to side.
That's alright Mike, I understand those internet electron things get slowed down by the desert air.

I think that there are more than a few conflicts in the manuals. I remember last year when Vinnie (our new moderator) was working on Tin Crumpet's AS my manual had several more pages on a subject than Hans' manual did. They appeared to be the same manual but there were differences. I don't remember the subject but there was a conflict on the procedure between the two manuals. Updates or revisions maybe but it's hard to know what was going on 30 years ago.

Also not trying to be difficult but your air bags won't level your coach side to side unless you have two leveling valves, one for each bag. Only balanced coach loading and correct front suspension set up will assure side to side level on our coaches with the single leveling valve.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:31 AM   #27
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your air bags won't level your coach side to side unless you have two leveling valves, one for each bag. Only balanced coach loading and correct front suspension set up will assure side to side level on our coaches with the single leveling valve.
"Mine" will level side to side, I had these installed in Seattle by a shop that deals with Fire Dept. rigs.
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Old 01-19-2011, 11:23 AM   #28
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"Mine" will level side to side, I had these installed in Seattle by a shop that deals with Fire Dept. rigs.
Aw now you are just trying to complicate things. Did they put adjusters on so you can you can use the bags to level when you park?

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-19-2011, 12:29 PM   #29
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Yup - that's what she is, alright. Why the OEM stuff had galvanized water pipes for the air system is beyond me - we replaced all that years ago with tubing - less weight and more dependable. You're on the right track!
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:13 PM   #30
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Did they put adjusters on so you can you can use the bags to level when you park
Nope, I'm still old school; a bunch of 2 x 10's.
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:01 PM   #31
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circuit breakers

Can someone PLEASE help me? I've been throught the thread and didn't find where anybody posted the specific location of the automatic circuit breaker block that powers the compressor. According to Page H-6 of my owners manual it is "located under the front access door of your motormome". Can't find it anywhere. It should be with other circuit breakers for the spotlight back-up monitor, and both power seats. Thanks a bunch... Kenneth
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Old 02-13-2011, 03:36 PM   #32
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Air Compressor, Tank Size

I would think that the relay should have been mounted near the original compressor location, but I am not familiar with your unit.

1: Just a thought on upgrading the air tank size.
The reason the tank size is small, is so that the small compressor does not run for an extended time. If it runs for longer periods, it will run hot and generate a lot of moisture.
On your smaller units that supplied air for suspension only, it was designed to cycle on and off for short periods allowing it to cool between cycles.
I would think if you are increasing the size of tank, you might also look to upgrade your compressor or, at the least, be sure the water is drained frequently.
2: The compressor needs to be wired to the chassis battery through the ignition key, or it WILL drain your battery.

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Old 02-13-2011, 04:26 PM   #33
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On my 82 there was just a wire coming from the chassis fuse box to the compressor. No relay. That wire receives power when the ignition switch is on or in the accessories position.

Now I use that wire to drive a relay that switches power that is run off a new large gauge wire from the battery feed at the generator.
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:36 PM   #34
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Right. I think. But where is your chassis fuse box located?
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Old 02-13-2011, 05:50 PM   #35
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On our 310 it is right above the gas peddle on the fire wall. Not fun to get to. I also power a relay with the original line from the ignition switch. I ran a 6 gage wire with a 30 amp fuse from the house bank of battery's. The compressor runs much faster and does not get as hot from the voltage drop.
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:16 PM   #36
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Geez. I don't know. I'm not usually this incapable. I don't see it there. There's alot of wires and cb coax switch, and brake controller, etc. but nothing mounted on the firewall. Not on either side of the steering column. Thank-you for your help Chris
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Old 02-13-2011, 06:47 PM   #37
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I know that they changed in 84 or 85, so someone here with a newer unit might know! Good Luck
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:59 PM   #38
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Where ever you see a big rats nest of wires under the dash near the gas pedal... just behind that is the panel. Atleast that was my experience with the 82!
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:06 PM   #39
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Yeah, thats what Chris said. I just don't see it. Mine being a '87 it might be different. In the book it says they are located under the front access door of the motorhome. Well under the front access door is the grill-not there! Still looking...Thanks
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Old 02-13-2011, 10:11 PM   #40
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Yeah, thats what Chris said. I just don't see it. Mine being a '87 it might be different. In the book it says they are located under the front access door of the motorhome. Well under the front access door is the grill-not there! Still looking...Thanks
We may be getting into a terminology thing here. On our older rigs the chassis fuse box is on the fire wall above the gas peddle several inches to the right almost in the center of the coach. If you look up under the dash you can almost see it and the fuses. Now get out of the coach and go around front to the hatch and you can see the back of the fuse box where the large wire looms go into the box. I don't know about the '87 but this was the set up for many years.

On my '82 the wire for the compressor going back wards from the left rear compartment at the compressor, crosses above the rear axle to the right frame rail up to the front of the coach. Up front it crosses in front of the fire wall above the radiator to the left side back to below the mirror through the side panel under the dash. Here it goes through the rats nest of wires over the steering column to the fuse box near the center under the dash.

I searched all over looking for the damn wire and finally traced it hand over hand to find this routing. Now you may think somebody has modified this but when Vinnie was working on Tin Crumpet's coach we talked on the phone while Vinnie followed the wire and it was identical to mine. Thank you Airstream.

I think I have read that some of the different coaches actually had the compressor up front, my memory is old so I may be wrong on that but if you find the compressor start following the wire.

Good luck, Dan
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