Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-19-2017, 01:53 PM   #15
Silver Bullet
 
choctawmel's Avatar

 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 664
Images: 1
I kind-a like the idea of a tractor roof mount a/c unit. LLumar ceramic would be a nice touch also.

I just replaced the 3 big shades in the kitchen/living room and the one in the bathroom with cellular shades from 'Steve's Blinds & Wallpaper'. These are real RV shades, not that junk I bought from Lowe's. The price for these new ones is why I had cheap blinds from a box store in before. You get what you pay for.Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02925.jpg
Views:	40
Size:	225.4 KB
ID:	289851
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02926.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	221.2 KB
ID:	289852
__________________

__________________
choctawmel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2017, 03:45 PM   #16
Silver Bullet
 
choctawmel's Avatar

 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 664
Images: 1
I took the cover off the coils and looked inside. I must of been thinking of another motor home when I said 'two motors' I guess I've never been in this before.
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02930.jpg
Views:	35
Size:	357.4 KB
ID:	290066
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC02931.jpg
Views:	37
Size:	431.3 KB
ID:	290067
No wonder so little cold air is delivered. One little motor driving two squirrel cages. Was surprised in the lack of junk in the coils. Lots of FOD on the bottom. The foam is all turned to powder. I cleaned it up, put new foam on the door and around the return, bolted it all back and hope for the best.
Can't find my leak in the coolant lines, so next week I'm hoping to get some help.
__________________

__________________
choctawmel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-21-2017, 05:44 PM   #17
3 Rivet Member
 
chriscraw's Avatar
 
1991 35' Airstream 350
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 232
Choctawmel...(interesting nom de plume...Mel from Choctaw??)..Many thanks for pic of what I am to expect after removing the front panel (yet to do 'cause of the Texas heat!) however, from your pics, I'm sure a replacement motor/fan and evaporator could be found that fits in the same space. As i look around, I'll keep you in the loop as a higher volume/speed blower and motor seems to be needed as well as a more efficient evaporator.
I'm also going to have to chase a leak..I am told that a good A/C shop can trace leaks with a fluorescent dye injected into the pressurized A/C system and then, using a ultra-violet light source, any leaks become visible. sound like the way to go.
Your blind cellular replacements also solve another of my pet peeves i.e flapping, noisy and swinging blinds. Would you please share with me the order you placed on Steve's blinds and Wallpaper so as to compare your measured sizes and the color you chose (very nice too!). How did you secure the blinds (did you need to take of the wooden surrounding frames and how are the new blinds mounted in the frame and controlled for vertical operation?
See what you've started now!!!
__________________
chriscraw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2017, 01:20 PM   #18
Silver Bullet
 
choctawmel's Avatar

 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
choctaw , Oklahoma
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 664
Images: 1
The shades came in any color you want as long is it 'Buff'. No choose, but matches good. This coming for a color blind person mind you.
I order three- 65 3/8"X33" ($825) and one 32"X25 1/2" ($104). Not the cheapest to use, but the right thing to use and i hope I never have to replace them again.
I'm sure the heater core and a/c core are a standard size. The heater core would just slide out with the cover off.
If you noticed I've put the clear plastic storm window cover over all but two window. Couldn't get the double sided tape to stick to the corner windows or the back window in the bedroom. It made a lot of difference keeping it warm inside when we got stuck in Les Cruses, NM with temperatures in the mid teens w/snow and ice. Helps a lot with cooling too.
I have re-wired it to a 50A plug too, so I can and do run both a/c's. In the cold I can run both roof a/c's on heat and 2 plug in a portable electric heater too.
__________________
choctawmel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2017, 01:24 PM   #19
3 Rivet Member
 
chriscraw's Avatar
 
1991 35' Airstream 350
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 232
Many thanks

Thanks for the measurements.I still need to know if you removed the window surrounding woodwork to install the blinds as it seems to me that this would be necessary to both mount the replacement blinds and ensure a snug horizontal fit?
As my issue is Texas heat, I just need blinds that reduce the interior heat load..i have no desire or plans to explore the colder climes of the US.
I'm going to investigate replacement blowers and evaporator coils over the next few months and will keep you informed of and items that I think might replace the crappy gear Airstream installed but hey..that was a quarter of a century ago!
__________________
chriscraw is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2017, 05:50 AM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 39
You might want to reconsider replacing the
evaporator fan motor if it is working
properly. I have been doing a lot of
reading on A/C units in the hopes of fixing
my unit.

Concerning the fan; the capacity of the fan
is balanced with the capacity of the A/C
system. The airflow through the evaporator
must be sufficient to boil the freon before
it returns to the compressor. Otherwise
you will get slugging (my problem). You
want the freon gas exiting the evaporator
to be about 20 degrees above the boiling
point of the freon at that pressure.

The original fan will be designed to do that.

Too large a fan will raise the 20 degrees
to something higher. That is OK with the
rest of the system. Too small a fan or
airfow restrictions can produce slugging.

The downside of a larger fan is the cooled air
temperature will be higher. This will result
in less water condensation in the core and
there less humidity reduction. Humidity
reduction is a big part of why A/C makes
a living space comfortable.

One test of an auto A/C system is measuring
the air temperature from the vents. It
should be about 40 degrees in a properly
working system. If you increase the airflow
the vent temperature will rise.

Remember that you get no additional cooling
from changing the fan, the system cooling
capacity is determined by all the
components working together. The fan is
only one small part.

Pete.
__________________
Air345Fly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 10:45 AM   #21
Rivet Master
 
Keyair's Avatar

 
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,676
Images: 1
Good thread!
If money were no object, I would probably be talking to "Vintage Air" about a system, or at least the internal components and control system! They have some great solutions!
__________________
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
Working in my Garage is like playing TETRIS with Tools!
Keyair is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 04:33 PM   #22
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
1995 36' Classic 36
boulder , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Good thread!

If money were no object, I would probably be talking to "Vintage Air" about a system, or at least the internal components and control system! They have some great solutions!


I talked to vintage Air a couple years ago. Not very helpful. If you couldn't rattle off a vehicle like a 56 T-bird that they had a kit for, they wouldn't talk to me.
__________________
Kota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 06:21 PM   #23
Dazed and Confused
 
Isuzusweet's Avatar

 
Currently Looking...
1983 31' Airstream310
Hillsburgh , Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 2,292
Okay Kota, at the meet we took a ride in your Jeep which you exclaimed had the coldest A/C you've ever had.......Now I know that compressors are for the most part the same, yes, some bigger than others, but if we could somehow take the condenser, dryer/evaporator and a compressor with similar specs to your Jeep and put it into our Classics; why wouldn't it work?

Yes, there would be some butchery and zip ties involved, but taking all the components out of your Jeep? Why not?

Cheers
Tony
__________________
Per Mare, Per Terram and may all your campaigns be successful.

Its a recession when your neighbor loses his job; its a depression when you lose your own. "Harry S Truman"
Isuzusweet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 08:24 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
bobmiller1's Avatar

 
2005 34' Classic S/O
2006 39' Land Yacht 396 XL
north blenheim , New York
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,072
Dave, was your system originally R12 ?
__________________
bobmiller1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 09:08 PM   #25
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
1995 36' Classic 36
boulder , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,288
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmiller1 View Post
dave, was your system originally r12 ?


134
__________________
Kota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2017, 09:55 PM   #26
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
1995 36' Classic 36
boulder , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,288
Site crashed!

R134. I'm convinced the condenser is way undersized. Wonder if replacing a 30' straight run of hose with a finned aluminum tube would do the trick.
__________________
Kota is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2017, 04:35 AM   #27
2 Rivet Member
 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 39
Why do you think that your condenser is too small? In a properly
designed system each component should be the correct size to do it's job.

With that said, things can go wrong. The condenser can get plugged
with road dirt or too many fins can get bent over. These restrict air
flow. If you have an electric fan, it it working OK?

Also, condensers can get plugged inside from krud. This mostly occurs
after a compressor failure. Generally this can be flushed out. However,
newer condensers have many small tubes running in parallel and cannot
be effectively flushed.

From my reading I believe that there is no downside from a too large
condenser. It will just increase the sub-cool which is a good thing.
This is not true for the evaporator where too large a unit will raise
the vent temperature and reduce the dehumidifying effect.

If there is a problem then you can know for sure by measuring the
sub-cool temperature. The process is described at this web site:
https://www.achrnews.com/articles/93...eat-subcooling

That is where I learned what I discussed in my previous post.

The sub-cool can be determined from the R-134a pressure
temperature chart here:
https://highperformancehvac.com/r-13...erature-chart/

This document has useful information:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/macs_s...procedures.pdf

This document shown the condenser construction:
http://www.teamec.be/cms_files/Flush...eaning(EN).pdf

Pete.
__________________
Air345Fly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-07-2017, 05:10 AM   #28
Rivet Master
 
Currently Looking...
1995 36' Classic 36
boulder , Colorado
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,288
ARA Dash Air Conditioners

Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
Why do you think that your condenser is too small? In a properly
designed system each component should be the correct size to do it's job.

With that said, things can go wrong. The condenser can get plugged
with road dirt or too many fins can get bent over. These restrict air
flow. If you have an electric fan, it it working OK?

Also, condensers can get plugged inside from krud. This mostly occurs
after a compressor failure. Generally this can be flushed out. However,
newer condensers have many small tubes running in parallel and cannot
be effectively flushed.

From my reading I believe that there is no downside from a too large
condenser. It will just increase the sub-cool which is a good thing.
This is not true for the evaporator where too large a unit will raise
the vent temperature and reduce the dehumidifying effect.

If there is a problem then you can know for sure by measuring the
sub-cool temperature. The process is described at this web site:
https://www.achrnews.com/articles/93...eat-subcooling

That is where I learned what I discussed in my previous post.

The sub-cool can be determined from the R-134a pressure
temperature chart here:
https://highperformancehvac.com/r-13...erature-chart/

This document has useful information:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/macs_s...procedures.pdf

This document shown the condenser construction:
http://www.teamec.be/cms_files/Flush...eaning(EN).pdf

Pete.


Properly designed is the key. Compared with my Ram, Wrangler, Explorer, and other vehicles I've had with awesome AC, the condenser is minuscule. About 16" by 20" with a 14" fan. Think that's all that would fit in the location they chose on the DP. I've never seen a 360 with dash AC that put out anything useful if the ambient temp is above 75 degrees. I do understand that the dash air will not come close to cooling the coach. But, if it put out the volume and temp of my little Jeep Wrangler, with nicely focused vents, we could be very comfortable. Add cooled seats and it would be quite pleasant.


Here's a link to parts if it hasn't been posted.

http://acmeairparts.com/
__________________

__________________
Kota is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Armstrong RV Air conditioners pap Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 72 10-13-2017 02:57 PM
Air pressure dash gauge raveson Classic Motorhomes 1 03-11-2008 09:59 PM
Dash Air tn2 Mechanics Corner - Engines, Transmission & More... 10 07-12-2007 01:52 PM
HOT Topic for the summer-Air conditioners-Best/worst? thenewkid64 Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 4 07-03-2002 04:55 AM
Air Conditioners JAG Furnaces, Heaters, Fireplaces & Air Conditioning 2 03-19-2002 01:25 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.