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Old 07-04-2006, 07:19 PM   #1
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Airstream One Wears A White Hat!

Well you may have rested over the 4th of July weekend but not me! I started with a desire to reduce the load on the A/C and the temp. inside the coach as the temps in the Carloinas keep climbing.
After eleven hours of labor I can report that I have new muscle development in my upper body and am looking forward to "going back to work for a rest."
I started by giving the existing dull silver paint a scuff with 400 grit wet sandpaper. I didn't want to take a chance of getting down to the aluminum and having to etch the surface for adhesion.
I taped the top seam line on each side and the rear cap. Then used a string compass to take the coverage out onto the front cap.
After applying the base coat I waited overnight to then take it down with a 360 grit wet sand this morning. After the wet was gone I tacked it all off with denatured alcohol and laid down the second coat.
I'm going to wait for a bit and then apply another coat but that will be some time in the future.
I used Interlux Polyurethane and their 333 slow drying brushing thinner to accomplish this job.
I'm looking forward to taking a temp reading with a laser contact thermometer and will report the findings.
I can only say that it sure is bright up there now! Hopefully I've picked up some reflectivity and the interior temps will be helped.
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Old 07-04-2006, 08:28 PM   #2
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can we

see more pics....
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Old 07-04-2006, 09:09 PM   #3
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Glen,

Before heading to the southwest last July, I painted the top of my cab and cap (black Ford Ranger.) The difference in surface temp was astounding! just by hand you can tell an immense difference. I'd think more folks should consider this. I also used the Interlux paint and got good results. After a year of San Diego to Albany, the wear is fine.
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Old 07-04-2006, 10:17 PM   #4
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Glen,
This is a topic often discussed, but not many actually go ahead and do it (and document it to boot). Well done. I look forward to hearing about your results.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:25 AM   #5
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Leefields, you asked for more photos... not sure how much better we can show what is a plain AS roof....
It's visible from some angles but not from close up on the ground level.
The two origianal post photos at the top of the thread where taken at opposite ends of the day. The before photo was early a.m. and the after photo was taken almost at dusk.
Here's some shots from each side... and of the materials used.
I'll be back on the road tomorrow and will be better able to report any perceived changes in cabin temps.
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Old 07-05-2006, 11:29 AM   #6
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The materials used.... two coats and still about 25% of the original quart left over.
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:03 AM   #7
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Some years ago I painted the top of my '84 310 Turbo Diesel using Interlux "bright white", and the perceived change was dramatic! About 90% improvement!
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Old 07-06-2006, 11:19 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
The materials used.... two coats and still about 25% of the original quart left over.
Brightside is good paint I did a 25' Sailboat with it and then painted a 34' with Imron. The Brightside help up just as well as the Imron and was much cheaper. The 34' was totaled by Katrina and given back to me, I just brought a gallon of Brighside out to the boat to start topcoating my repair work.

GoodStuff.

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Old 07-06-2006, 11:38 AM   #9
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I'm looking into options for the Tradewind, Thanks for posting!
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Old 07-06-2006, 03:56 PM   #10
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For any of you contemplating the same type of fix...don't pass on the 333 Brushing Thinner! This slow drying solvent really makes the job easier. The paint is much more workable for a longer period. As the thinner evaporated during my open can usage I could feel the drag on the brush as the paint got thicker and faster drying.
As this happened I'd drop in a bit more 333 and the brush would glide perfectly again.
This allows the "sprayed on" look as you can really work out any brush marks and get the paint flowing.
Today was not the test day for the new hat re temps as the weather in Aiken / Augusta is clowdy and a bit wet from time to time. Will post tomorrow if we get some sun.
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Old 07-06-2006, 09:29 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
For any of you contemplating the same type of fix...don't pass on the 333 Brushing Thinner! This slow drying solvent really makes the job easier. The paint is much more workable for a longer period. As the thinner evaporated during my open can usage I could feel the drag on the brush as the paint got thicker and faster drying.
As this happened I'd drop in a bit more 333 and the brush would glide perfectly again.
This allows the "sprayed on" look as you can really work out any brush marks and get the paint flowing.
Today was not the test day for the new hat re temps as the weather in Aiken / Augusta is clowdy and a bit wet from time to time. Will post tomorrow if we get some sun.
Gentlemen: My experience is that the most reliable results are achieved with a roll-and-brush technique. Use a small 3 inch roller to apply the paint to about a 12 inch swath, then use a 3 inch foam brush to pull out the bubbles. Do not go over the area more than once, and KEEP MOVING. Also, the temperature of the surface being painted should be uniform, and it is best to paint a surface between 70 and 80 degrees F. Too hot causes the paint to dry too quickly, too cool may cause it to run--remember that you are applying an Extremely Thin coat of paint. 3 coats are best. I don't know how Glen applied his, but it looks lovely--he can paint my boat anytime!

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Old 07-06-2006, 10:29 PM   #12
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Looks great Glen. I can not imagine how you handled the heat on top of that roof. Where did you cut it off on the sides? Also, did you not paint the rear portion of the roof?
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Old 07-07-2006, 06:04 AM   #13
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Rob, in fact I did not use the roll and tip method. I didn't have a small roller and am use to brushing. It takes a little longer but with the 333 the working time is a bit longer and you can go over it with out any trouble to remove any brush marks. A very high quality brush is the secret folks, no $1.98 brush for me... used a $14 china bristle.

Kent, I followed the rivet line (sorry the photos had so much glare you couldn't see from the side. Check out where the verticle side skin joins the roof skins. At the rear I followed the rivet line across the back where the end cap skins joined the roof skins. It was easy to tape below the seam but you have to take a little more time to get good coverage around the rivets. Yes it got hot up there but I did work in the shade and finished each day before noon.

I'm going to take a break and do the third coat, as Rob suggested, when I return from vacation.

Now if Alsa could just make a chrome paint I could brush on I'd be in heaven.
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Old 07-07-2006, 09:23 AM   #14
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I'm looking into options for the Tradewind, Thanks for posting!
I order via internet from the link below, very prompt delivery and good prices.

www.jamestowndistributors.com/
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