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Old 08-20-2007, 01:03 PM   #15
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JaG

You probably have two pounds of rusted crud in the bottom of your tank. When you go to let the air out, it keeps the schrader valve gummed up. Get a tool to take the schrader valve insert out as well as a few of the inserts(any auto parts store should have them). Take the valve out and see what comes out with it. If you try and re-use the old valve, it will probable leak forever, as will the one that you have already disturbed. Make sure the cap is on tight when you are finished. Be careful as there may be some pressure behind it and could blow crud everywhere, especially your eyes if you are looking into the hole. Ask me how I know.

As mentioned before, the check valve is probably gone and a new one would be in order.

Steve
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:28 AM   #16
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@Geophilist:
That is what I plan on trying next. I have been working on my generator, which is another issue, until 10:00pm last night and haven't had time to try that yet. I will pick up a few inserts first from the local auto parts store first though. Thanks!
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Old 08-21-2007, 09:12 PM   #17
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o.k. I unscrewed the bleeder valve and poked a nail up in there to see if it is stopped up and it was not. No water either. so I started up nancy and I heard air coming out the valve. So I put in a new valve core in it and It seems to be fine. It was kinda weird that it didn't have any moisture in it or that no pressure was on it when I took out the old valve core.
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Old 08-26-2007, 05:58 AM   #18
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JaG,

So much for that theory. Perhaps the air has been leaking out of your system for so long that no water has accumulated in the tank. You must have some pressure to that point because air leaks out when you started it up with the core out. At least you don't have a tank full of rust!

As others have pointed out, the check valve between the compressor and the system might be bad. Good luck and happy hunting.

Steve
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Old 09-01-2007, 07:41 PM   #19
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JaG.
There is a leak somewhere. You tank should have pressure in it (90 - 100 psi or so). The check valve can be purchased from Grainger. The fact that you removed the drain valve and there was not pressure in the tank means your system is not working correctly. A note on this, you should not drive you coach over 20 - 30 mph without the rear air system working. It places too much of the rear suspension load on the tag axle suspension.

You mentioned in a previous post that the compressor comes on with the igition and you hear a "release" of air when you turn it off. This is normal. The compressor has a release in it to remove any pressure between the check valve and the compressor so the next time you start the compressor it doesn't already have a 90 psi head of pressure on it.

I suspect your check valve is not allowing air into the tank. Or you have a leak between the valve and the tank.
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Old 09-01-2007, 08:24 PM   #20
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@swebster: Hey bud! Where exactly is this in-line check valve between the compressor and tank? I hope to get to the bottom of this, because I don't want to damage anything when I take her out soon.
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Old 09-02-2007, 03:32 PM   #21
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I replaced mine in a parking lot in December (this type of thing seems to be a theme with me) so I've blocked out a lot of it for mental health purposes.

If I remember correctly, there is a hard line that runs down from the compressor (below the floor) behind the tank and connects to the roadside fitting on the tank. The check valve is somewhere along this hardline.

Mine developed a crack and allowed all of the air to dump out (over an hour or so). Simple to replace it and I think it cost about $20. Don't forget teflon tape on the threads.
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Old 09-03-2007, 08:15 PM   #22
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check valve

I think you guys are right about the check valve. No pressure at all on the compressor even when I fill it up manually at the tank with a plugged in air compressor. It just leaks out the pressure release valve under the bed. I believe that as long as the key is on, the compressor kicks on and gives the system the 90+ pounds needed, but the compressor I figure is over worked and must run most of the time. When I turn the key off, the compressor kicks off and all the pressure is released through the pressure release valve located under the bed. Now I looked for this in-line check valve to no avail. I followed the air line down through the coach under the rear curbside of Nancy. From the bottom it went into a 1 inch black corriageted looking tube. This tube ran down the frame of Nancy until it was between the tags and dual wheels and then it went into the compressor tank. I could not see anything obvious where there might have been a check valve located. The guage mounted on the dash when key is on shows that it is getting adequate air pressure. I wonder if the pressure is in the air bags or whether the pressure is between the compressor and the check valve. What I'm trying to figure out is, if I can't locate this elusive check valve, whether I can just add one under the bed before it goes down through the floor????
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Old 09-04-2007, 01:33 PM   #23
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You should be able to just add one in the compressor outlet line. Just make sure that it is after the pressure relese that dumps pressure at compressor shut-down. My 345 did not have a check valve, and had some other missing parts of this system. I figure a PO got in over his head and screwed is up.
Rob
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Old 09-04-2007, 08:11 PM   #24
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Appreciate it Robfike. that is what I was hoping. I will get the check valve and maybe this will resolve my problem. Thanks to all I will post with an update soon.
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:04 PM   #25
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o.k. what size check valve do I need? Part # or product Id? I looked on Andy's site and couldn't find it. also looked on grainger's site and found several. Since I don't have one to match up, what does this thing look like and what size. Help.....
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Old 09-06-2007, 08:59 AM   #26
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I will try to get you a picture or some info this evening.
Rob
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Old 09-17-2007, 06:33 PM   #27
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Sorry for the long time getting the picture out.
In the photo, the aluminum cylinder in the center/right is the check valve. There are no part numbers on it. It just has the flow direction arrow stamped in it. It can be taken apart and cleaned.
If you follow the black plastic line from the compressor, it goes first to a "T", and then to the check valve. The other line from the "T" goes to the pressure relief valve (lower left) that dumps the compressor head pressure when the compressor shuts down. It is an electric solenoid valve. This way the check valve holds system pressure while the pressure between it and the compressor is dumped.
Hope this helps, Rob
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Old 09-18-2007, 12:44 PM   #28
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Thanks Robfike for the pic. I put in a small hospital in line check valve this past Sunday. It isn't nearly as elaborate as yours, but It may do the trick. I am going to test it in a bit to see if it is still holding pressure. After I installed it Sunday, it was the 1st time that the tank has held any pressure since I've owned my coach. I forgot to take her off of the leveler jacks and it wasn't pumping up, but after I released the hydraulic jacks it started filling up like it was supposed to. It seemed like it took quite a long time to fill up the tank. The tank probably didn't get filled over 70 psi before the compressor finally shut itself down. I will look into it soon and will post a pick when I can get it resolved if it works. Thanks to all.
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