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Old 02-02-2006, 09:15 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Happycampers
Hello Tim.. Yes that is what it is.. Thanks for the compliment.. Hubby did all the work.. does autobody repair.. When we came to Fla for the winter in Oct.. the temp was in the mid 80's.... our a/c was toast.. between the roof and the fantastic fans we were comfortable.. but did replace the a/c.. Annie
Annie,

Just two thoughts...How did you decide where to stop the coating as you came down the sides and ends? How did you apply the Koolseal - brush, roller, or what? I've never seen a MoHo with the roof coated, but I would consider it on mine. I noticed last summer (before it belonged to me ) that heat was a major problem around the ceiling. Now that the Plasticoat is getting so bad up there, I'm wondering about a coat of coolseal ...
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:20 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by swebster
Jim,
Just an FYI - the 360 came in a diesel pusher verison on a spartan chassis. That's why there is no tag axle. Very nice looking units, but I kind of like the lines better on the 360's with the tags (gassers).

Steven (and Jim),

Seems to me that all the weight of the engine at the rear without a tag could be a handling problem? I heard the early 345s came without tags, but owners pushed for one to handle the overhang. And they were all front-engine units, correct?
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:55 AM   #17
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As far as I know, all the 345s were front engine.
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Old 02-02-2006, 10:49 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noiva
Annie,

Just two thoughts...How did you decide where to stop the coating as you came down the sides and ends? .
I would draw a line right along the bottom of the awning which on mine would line up with the clearance lights.
I need to search out the gentleman with the 75 Tradewind. He is from Minnesota and has a spot in the Airstream park in Minnesota. He is also a very nice person who was eager to explain how he painted the roof of his trailer. Come on there has to be someone else who was at the Region 7 Vintage Rally, Duquette, MN last fall.
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Old 02-02-2006, 11:33 AM   #19
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On my 280 you can pretty much draw a rectangle on the roof using the flatter area..this would be where I would paint it white if doing so. I have thought about it..
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:00 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
I would draw a line right along the bottom of the awning which on mine would line up with the clearance lights.
I need to search out the gentleman with the 75 Tradewind. He is from Minnesota and has a spot in the Airstream park in Minnesota. He is also a very nice person who was eager to explain how he painted the roof of his trailer. Come on there has to be someone else who was at the Region 7 Vintage Rally, Duquette, MN last fall.
Kent and Alan,

What about the front? My Plasticoat is peeling right down to the windshield, but it doesn't look (speculating ) like taking white to that point would look bad. Any thoughts? I agree with the awning line. That's also where the peeling seems to stop.
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:26 PM   #21
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My thoughts would be some kind of division line. I do have a black line towards the roof area that could be extended all the way around the coach. The line would be right above the windshield and make a nice break between the painted and aluminum surfaces. I too have oxidized areas on the roof that would look better painted. That seems like such a permanent solution.
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Old 02-02-2006, 02:56 PM   #22
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Roof coatings: In the NW we don't worry too much about sun and heat, just RAIN!!! I've coated several Airstreams (4 of my own) with the Elixer's fibered aluminum roof topping. However, I DO NOT follow the directions on the can. I thin the coating just enough so that it will paint on smoothly with a disposable brush. I always scrub the roof with hot detergent and a little bleach to remove all the moss and dirt. Any corrosion spots are sanded lightly with 400g wet/dry abrasive or sanding sponges work well, too. I do the work inside to keep bird, tree, and other stuff off, and it's usually raining here. It takes 2 coats with about 3 to 4 days to cure between, depending on temperature and air flow. By thinning the mixture, it looks very much like the high-impact paint used on rocker panels. I paint down to the awning rail (if there is one) and to just past the first lengthwise rivit line where there is no awning. Front and back divisions are just beyond the first crossrib line of rivits, front and rear. I use blue masking tape to make a neat edge. You can hardly see the topping from the ground and the grey color blends in well. I've tracked one trailer for 14 years before the coating had to be redone and it lived outside all the time. Of course, this means getting on the roof, crawling around carefully, not causing any dents. I have a small plywood platform that fits across the trailer top to the first rivit line on either side where there are lengthwise supports in the roof and I try not to paint myself into a corner away from the ladder. My current trailer, a '65 Tradewind, has this treatment. Someday when I'm smarter I'll figure out how to post some photos. Darol
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Old 02-02-2006, 03:32 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Darol Ingalls
Roof coatings: In the NW we don't worry too much about sun and heat, just RAIN!!! I've coated several Airstreams (4 of my own) with the Elixer's fibered aluminum roof topping. However, I DO NOT follow the directions on the can. I thin the coating just enough so that it will paint on smoothly with a disposable brush. I always scrub the roof with hot detergent and a little bleach to remove all the moss and dirt. Any corrosion spots are sanded lightly with 400g wet/dry abrasive or sanding sponges work well, too. I do the work inside to keep bird, tree, and other stuff off, and it's usually raining here. It takes 2 coats with about 3 to 4 days to cure between, depending on temperature and air flow. By thinning the mixture, it looks very much like the high-impact paint used on rocker panels. I paint down to the awning rail (if there is one) and to just past the first lengthwise rivit line where there is no awning. Front and back divisions are just beyond the first crossrib line of rivits, front and rear. I use blue masking tape to make a neat edge. You can hardly see the topping from the ground and the grey color blends in well. I've tracked one trailer for 14 years before the coating had to be redone and it lived outside all the time. Of course, this means getting on the roof, crawling around carefully, not causing any dents. I have a small plywood platform that fits across the trailer top to the first rivit line on either side where there are lengthwise supports in the roof and I try not to paint myself into a corner away from the ladder. My current trailer, a '65 Tradewind, has this treatment. Someday when I'm smarter I'll figure out how to post some photos. Darol
Darol and Kent,

All good info. I've done the fibered aluminum roof coating on my two Avion trailers with excellent results. Did them just about the way Darol described. The two issues with my MoHo are whether I can successfully switch to white (probably Kool Seal white elastomeric roof coating - almost certainly very close, if not exactly, what Airstream is putting on their new trailers) and have it look OK, and how to do the line where the front cap meets the patio side awning? That rail is higher than the top of the front window line, but there's a seam there I think could successfully be the demarcation. The street side has the awning rails in line with the top of the windshield, so that should work. I live in Virginia, and it gets very hot during the summers. The white does reflect heat better, and would pretty much guarantee no leaks from the roof area (not that I've had any). Darol's techniques are very helpful regardless of which coating is used. Thanks.
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Old 02-02-2006, 03:49 PM   #24
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re where to paint kool seal

Hello everyone.. Hubby, Marvin painted from awning rail to other side where side is riveted to top.. cannot see it unless you are standing away and up.. and he painted from top of end cap to other end cap start.. looks great.. and guess what .. we did not have any leaks before and don't have to worry about leaks on the Argosy.... on our Tradewind we had.. you would not believe where the leaks could and did come in from... We would do this all over again on any Airstream or vintage trailer we get in the future.. Will post a pic later of Argosy roof.... Annie
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Old 02-02-2006, 03:53 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Happycampers
Hello everyone.. Hubby, Marvin painted from awning rail to other side where side is riveted to top.. cannot see it unless you are standing away and up.. and he painted from top of end cap to other end cap start.. looks great.. and guess what .. we did not have any leaks before and don't have to worry about leaks on the Argosy.... on our Tradewind we had.. you would not believe where the leaks could and did come in from... We would do this all over again on any Airstream or vintage trailer we get in the future.. Will post a pic later of Argosy roof.... Annie
Annie,

Please tell us what method you hour Hubby used to apply the paint. Did he brush, roll, or spray (unlikely)?

Thanks,
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Old 02-02-2006, 03:57 PM   #26
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Sorry .. He rolled it on.. and brushed around the fantastic fans and a/c.. Annie
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:38 AM   #27
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I finally remembered who the gentleman was at the rally. He had a 74 Tradewind, beautifully polished and restored. The roof was painted and I did find a posting where he described what he used.

"I used Interlux Brightside Blu-Glo White. The color is great and it brushes on with almost no brush marks. I used the roll & tip method which is explained on the Interlux web site. I used 1qt. for a 25 foot trailer."

If I could do the roof on Chummy and get it to come out half as good I would be very happy.
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:50 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Chaplain Kent
I finally remembered who the gentleman was at the rally. He had a 74 Tradewind, beautifully polished and restored. The roof was painted and I did find a posting where he described what he used.

"I used Interlux Brightside Blu-Glo White. The color is great and it brushes on with almost no brush marks. I used the roll & tip method which is explained on the Interlux web site. I used 1qt. for a 25 foot trailer."

If I could do the roof on Chummy and get it to come out half as good I would be very happy.
I checked out the Interlux Brightside Blu-Glo White, and it's a polyurethane all-purpose product. I wonder if Kool Seal's Elastomeric Roof Coating is better/worse to use? It's an acrylic resin based product that has somewhat of a "rubbery" consistency when cured. Expands and contracts with heat and cold. I'd like to make the best choice if I get into this project. I'd hate to have to do it twice, or strip one off to use the other.
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