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Old 06-18-2011, 09:56 PM   #1
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A bit disappointed - flooring

We thought we would take the plunge and bought some cork flooring. Yesterday I ripped out the old carpeting and pad and the boss got the heavy stuff with the vacuum. Today I went out to finish cleaning up. Starting at the rear I started pulling all the staples and cleaning up the remains. I think for every ounce of caulking they used they threw another ounce on the floor. Then all the aluminum chips from drilling rivet holes was ground into the caulking. Every pop rivet shank that was "popped" was on the floor and then a few electrical connectors and a cigarette butt was added. After all this stuff was ground into the caulking then the carpet was put down to hide it all. I have to admit as I got to the galley things started to lighten up a bit and the front of the coach was pretty clean.

Maybe I'm expecting too much but I wouldn't expect that much trash in the cheapest SOB. I definitely expect better from a high end coach like an Airstream. Also I found a nice hatch cut in the plywood over the fuel tank. The interesting thing is the aluminum sheet under the plywood wasn't cut. Obviously the hatch doesn't help much without the hole in the aluminum. The biggest problem is to cut the aluminum with a saber saw or something similar, you are blindly cutting the top of the tank, fuel lines, vents and wiring. I suppose if you got a big enough hole started you could attack it with tin snips but you are still drilling/cutting into the top of the tank.

I'm sorry about rambling on so long but I just needed to vent.

Anyway tomorrow I get to try to figure how to assemble these snap together floor pieces around all the obstacles. Hopefully it'll be a better day tomorrow.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:12 PM   #2
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Just think how awesome your trailer will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went throught he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
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Old 06-18-2011, 11:30 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Just think how awesome your Motorhome will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went through he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
Hi, Dan. I found a paper coffee cup, a piece of plastic pipe, and some cut off pieces of wire besides the usual shavings and rivet pins. I think it is a requirement for Airstream to leave about five pounds of trash in each unit, therefore saving five pounds of trash per unit times units produced per year = $$$$$$$$ saved on their trash bill.
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:49 AM   #4
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Hi, Dan. I found a paper coffee cup, a piece of plastic pipe, and some cut off pieces of wire besides the usual shavings and rivet pins. I think it is a requirement for Airstream to leave about five pounds of trash in each unit, therefore saving five pounds of trash per unit times units produced per year = $$$$$$$$ saved on their trash bill.
I understand a bit of construction trash but I guess you have to order a vinyl or some type of hard floor to get them to clean up a little. I don't claim to be the tidiest guy around but I do take pride in my work and I would be embarrassed to send a product out the door with that much crap swept under the carpet. You know a little craft paper on the floor makes clean up pretty easy. I don't know, maybe it's just me.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-19-2011, 01:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Just think how awesome your trailer will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went throught he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
I went with the floating floor. I'm going with a small gap also, like you say it's a pretty small area. I think I will probably make my own moldings. I've got some oak left over from other projects and I thought a lot of the stuff being sold was out of proportion size wise for the small areas I'm working in.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-19-2011, 06:26 AM   #6
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:45 AM   #7
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typical for many plants. Very little respect for the potential customer and their satisfaction.

Makes One wonder.

Worker Attitude ? Sucks at times
Just re do the way you want it done and enjoy
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Old 06-19-2011, 10:49 AM   #8
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YouTube - ‪Airstream Restoration - 07-1 Flooring‬‏
check this link out and let us know how it works/ looks.
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Old 06-19-2011, 11:04 PM   #9
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YouTube - ‪Airstream Restoration - 07-1 Flooring‬‏
check this link out and let us know how it works/ looks.
I have watched that several times and they make it look so easy. I've posted a few pics to show my concerns.

The first is fabricating some molding around the battery box hatch especially between the hatch and entry step well.

Next is the area under the bath door and rear of the bed. I understand I have to either start at the front left corner or the right rear corner to snap the floor together. Trying to slide it under the door and edge of the bunk and still be able to lift and snap together might be fun.

If I start at the right rear I can slide the starting edge under the refer but then I have to deal with the angled area under the toe kick of the galley sink cabinet.

I also have two pedestal mounted barrel chairs opposite the couch. If I lay the floor and then bolt these down I no longer have a floating floor. If I cut out the floor around the pedestals then I have to fabricate molding around each pedestal base. Just more fun to think about.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-22-2011, 08:39 AM   #10
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well Dan
Laying the flooring in the 345 was quite a project.
But after getting Two bids of over 4,000 each.
I purchased the Miter saw I always wanted a went to work.
After Two weeks of removing the carpet, old padding, tac strips, original and new installed 10 years ago. tacks, staples, trash, then applying Two coats of primmer, sealer I decided the next time. I would be happy to write the check for 4,400. HaHaHa. But now I know what is under there and it is the way I wanted it done.
and I have a free Miter saw for other project s I am sure will evolve over time.

Looks Like you are doing a great Job Dan
Good Luck
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Old 06-22-2011, 09:28 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream

I have watched that several times and they make it look so easy. I've posted a few pics to show my concerns.

The first is fabricating some molding around the battery box hatch especially between the hatch and entry step well.

Next is the area under the bath door and rear of the bed. I understand I have to either start at the front left corner or the right rear corner to snap the floor together. Trying to slide it under the door and edge of the bunk and still be able to lift and snap together might be fun.

If I start at the right rear I can slide the starting edge under the refer but then I have to deal with the angled area under the toe kick of the galley sink cabinet.

I also have two pedestal mounted barrel chairs opposite the couch. If I lay the floor and then bolt these down I no longer have a floating floor. If I cut out the floor around the pedestals then I have to fabricate molding around each pedestal base. Just more fun to think about.

Cheers, Dan
Hi Dan,

I have the exact same layout. Im very interested in your progress.

Dean
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Old 06-23-2011, 12:13 AM   #12
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well Dan
Laying the flooring in the 345 was quite a project.
But after getting Two bids of over 4,000 each.
I purchased the Miter saw I always wanted a went to work.
After Two weeks of removing the carpet, old padding, tac strips, original and new installed 10 years ago. tacks, staples, trash, then applying Two coats of primmer, sealer I decided the next time. I would be happy to write the check for 4,400. HaHaHa. But now I know what is under there and it is the way I wanted it done.
and I have a free Miter saw for other project s I am sure will evolve over time.

Looks Like you are doing a great Job Dan
Good Luck
Thanks for the vote of confidence John. I guess I'm a little too "frugal" to pop for four grand so I'll just have to muddle through. To make things worse I already have a miter saw so I can't even justify some new toys.

Anyway I started in the bath. While I think about it some flooring systems start on the left side and work to the right and across the room, others start on the right and work left. The system I have works right to left so I started passenger side in the rear. The first pic is the first piece that I cut. I measured and re-measured and checked and rechecked and made way too many trips in and out to the saw. The flange at the base of the toilet and sink cabinet didn't sit flat so I added several screws to try to hold it down. Then I had to route a relief on the bottom of the cork so it would sit flat on the floor. After way too much time and effort and feeling pretty good about the fit I realized I cut the wrong end and had no tongue to engage the next piece. After this and discovering how out of square everything in this coach is, I started again and got one row up to the battery box to show for the days work.

The next day with a fresh attitude I did a little better and got the back done up to the galley and the front is in except the last row in front of the galley and couch. A much better day

Dean if you get into this on you coach I did have to change the battery box hatch. First the hinge is set too low and would interfere with the molding around the hatch. I decided to remove the hinge and just make it a lift out hatch. Probably should have done this long ago as it's really a pain trying to hold the hatch while you are working on the batteries. The hatches in the sole in my boat just sit there and have been fine for years. I also decided to build a new hatch a little thicker. This one has always felt a little soft when you step on it and now it sits almost 1/4" lower than the floor molding. Probably easier to start new then rip the parquet out and try to fit the cork in.

Also starting in the bath and forward to the cockpit step, I snapped a chalk line down the middle and worked from it. I was concerned starting from the cabinet opposite the couch and meeting up with my center row, everything being so square. Anyway I finished the center row and then worked back wards to the cabinet. The guy at the floor supply told me I couldn't do that but I did and it was fairly easy. With the right side done I went back and finished the bath and came forward to the galley. Another thing I learned is with some manufacturers you snap in the piece along it's length and then tap it lengthwise to make up the end joint. The better quality stuff you line up the end joint, snap in the side and just drop it in place. You don't have drive in the end joints.

The other issue I had was the barrel chair pedestals. After much thought I ordered "spider bases" from Discount Van & Truck. I was concerned about having loose furniture flying around so I took a 5/8" bolt from the pedestal mount and drilled and tapped a 3/8" hole down the center. Then I shaved the head down to about 1/8" and drew it down in the plywood sub floor until it was flush with the surface. I drilled a 7/8" hole in the cork and made a filler plug. I can remove the plug, screw in an eye bolt and mount another to the bottom of the chair base and when on the road I can use a turnbuckle to secure the chairs to the floor. When I stop for the night, remove the turnbuckle, unscrew the eye bolt and drop the plug in the hole and I have a free standing chair and a smooth, floating floor. Obviously I did this twice for two chairs.

Tomorrow I should be able to finish the floor and start on the hold down edge molding. I hope all this dribble make sense to anyone who is thinking about a new floor.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-23-2011, 01:38 AM   #13
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That looks really nice Dan. Post some Picts of your chair bolt downs when you can! I agree with you on the battery hatch. It is a real pain yo hold open and work on the batts with only two hands.
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Old 06-24-2011, 11:26 AM   #14
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That looks really nice Dan. Post some Picts of your chair bolt downs when you can! I agree with you on the battery hatch. It is a real pain yo hold open and work on the batts with only two hands.
I have a special bungee cord to hold the hatch open attached to the chair. Tacky, but it works.
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