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Old 06-24-2011, 11:55 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary

I have a special bungee cord to hold the hatch open attached to the chair. Tacky, but it works.
That's exactly what I do as well!
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:37 PM   #16
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Looks like it was a real fussy job, Dan, but the end result is beautiful.

How much of an allowance did you leave around the edges for the freeze/hot cycle?

Thanks very much for the good clear photos. If you have any others, please post them too, if you have the time.
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Old 06-25-2011, 02:39 AM   #17
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Looks like it was a real fussy job, Dan, but the end result is beautiful.

How much of an allowance did you leave around the edges for the freeze/hot cycle?

Thanks very much for the good clear photos. If you have any others, please post them too, if you have the time.
Thanks for the kind words. It is a fussy job and I have a real problem with this kind of stuff because I'm a machinist by trade and the lack of precision drives me nuts. The distance between the bunks grows about 1/4" from the back to the middle and then narrows about 1/8" at the front end. If t was even it would be very easy to cut the pieces on the table saw but when they taper so much you wind up doing it free hand with a saber saw or band saw. It just takes so much longer. Maybe I'm just being too fussy but what can I say? Anyway to answer your question I "tried" to keep the gap at 1/4". I wasn't as concerned widthwise because the distance is so small. Lengthwise I tried to error on the plus side because the the growth if any would be much greater.

I talked to a flooring shop in town and they suggested I put a coat of acrylic polyurethane on after I finish the floor. I have prefinished cork but he said for moisture around the bath the extra coat would give it a commercial floor rating. Guess what I did today? I haven't put the moldings in yet as I figured it would be better to coat under the molding. I'll take some pics tomorrow after the urethane sets up a bit. I got to spend the afternoon mounting tires while the floor dried. Tomorrow the new a/c compressor and receiver/drier goes in and maybe I can make some cold air.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-25-2011, 08:32 AM   #18
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Good luck with the AC work, should be cool having that going, huh?

We are thinking of putting in the Allure TrafficMaster flooring. We used it in a kitchen here at home and it stands up to anything but bullets. Well, I'm just guessing about the bullets, of course.

Our TT has a very similar floor plan to your moho, and the length-wise "grow" in winter of the new flooring has me worried. The TT is a rear bath, and has the mid sleeping area, then kitchen then lounge up front.

I was considering putting a decent-sized gap at the door between the galley and the sleeping area, with a screwed-down track holding a "T" or "mushroom cap" style there. I would leave about a ¼" gap on either side of the track.

To my mind, this would lessen the stress the length of the floor would undergo, and maybe protect it from buckling.

I hate doing jobs twice, and this is the only way it would seem to be possible to not force the expansion to travel the entire ~29' of the interior.

Any thoughts?
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:22 AM   #19
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Good luck with the AC work, should be cool having that going, huh?

We are thinking of putting in the Allure TrafficMaster flooring. We used it in a kitchen here at home and it stands up to anything but bullets. Well, I'm just guessing about the bullets, of course.

Our TT has a very similar floor plan to your moho, and the length-wise "grow" in winter of the new flooring has me worried. The TT is a rear bath, and has the mid sleeping area, then kitchen then lounge up front.

I was considering putting a decent-sized gap at the door between the galley and the sleeping area, with a screwed-down track holding a "T" or "mushroom cap" style there. I would leave about a ¼" gap on either side of the track.

To my mind, this would lessen the stress the length of the floor would undergo, and maybe protect it from buckling.

I hate doing jobs twice, and this is the only way it would seem to be possible to not force the expansion to travel the entire ~29' of the interior.

Any thoughts?
I was actually more concerned about the moisture in the bath from showers. I also thought a break at the bath doors would make fitting in that area easier. After cutting the pieces I was able to get it in without the break.

I personally have a hard time imagining this "engineered" flooring moving that much. I was tempted to measure a piece of flooring with a micrometer and then putting it near a steamer for awhile and then remeasure it just to see if I could make it grow. I just didn't have the time. I live in a log house and there is much discussion about the logs swelling and shrinking. You are not supposed to connect interior walls to the ceiling to allow movement and you are supposed to leave gaps above doors and windows for the same reason. I can tell you my home is 28 years old and the interior walls are connected to the ceiling with no cracks and there are no gaps above the doors and windows. I was talking to a local log builder about my place and he wouldn't believe me. He finally came over and looked for himself. All he could do is shake his head.

I would bet the aluminum in your trailer will grow more on a hot day then your floor will. Is it really a problem, who knows? I guess you just have to go with what makes you comfortable.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 06-26-2011, 09:17 PM   #20
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I posted a few pics of my flooring efforts last fall after repairing some rotting sub floor. I took several pics of my trim work but finally gave up trying to up load them. It may be helpful here so will try again. This is simply hardware store hemp fastened every 12-15".
You can also see the holes where I did thru bolt the two chairs. After nearly a year I'm not sure of the wisdom but I don't worry about them flying around (except maybe around & around).
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:05 PM   #21
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Looks good! I like the rope idea too. We have been amazed how out square, out of level, things were, even back to our 63 (especially). Lots of construction by eye which has made reconstruction difficult. Lots of templates, test fit, trim, test fit, etc.
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Old 07-04-2011, 09:15 PM   #22
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That looks really nice Dan. Post some Picts of your chair bolt downs when you can! I agree with you on the battery hatch. It is a real pain yo hold open and work on the batts with only two hands.
Sorry it took so long to get some pictures for you but it has been rather hectic around here. Anyway this is an original bolt and a modified sample. I drilled and tapped the bolt for a 3/8" eye bolt and then shaved the head down to about .100" so that I could draw it down flush into the plywood to not interfere with the "floating floor". I cut a 3/4" hole in the cork so it could move a bit without hitting the eye bolt. I cut a chain link in half and welded it to the bottom of the chair base, the first picture. I am having a problem finding a short enough turn buckle so I'll have to order some left handed taps and fabricate my own barrel. The only turn buckles I can find that are short enough are 3/16". Strong enough to hold the chair but not if someone is sitting in it. A taller chair base would also help.

Cheers, Dan
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