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Old 08-06-2007, 02:31 PM   #29
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Keep in mind the "floor" in a motorhome is just a subfloor. It sits on top of a 1 x 1 steel framed grid, which is then bolted to the chassis. It's very different than a trailer floor.
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:36 PM   #30
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While you are checking RV salvage for windows, why don't you try to locate gen-set door and accessories. Congrats on your cabinet maker friend.

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Old 08-06-2007, 03:42 PM   #31
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While you have the floor out, you should probably go ahead and dedicate one of the trays to a generator and frame out the space above it so that it will make it easier to install a generator at some future date. Even if you never install one, at least the space will be available for a future owner should you ever, perish the thought, decide to sell. I have a funny feeling that you will wish you had after the first summer road trip you take and find that the dash air is in no way near enough to cool even the front of such a cavern like space.

One you might also consider: call David Tidwell (?) at Roger Williams Airstream. They have some pretty nice stainless steel aftermarket doors for exterior compartments on Airstream trailers so they might have something that would work for your motorhome, or they might be able to custom fabricate a door that would be appropriate. They might also be a good source for basement doors for other storage needs (trust me, you'll need all the basement storage space you can get).
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Old 08-06-2007, 05:33 PM   #32
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Just a thought, but have you been inside and around a classic AS? I would recommend that you spend some time in one and around one, or two or three. That would give you ideas about how certain problems were solved by the factory. Like where to put a fresh water tank and a black water tank, and how to frame in a genset. Where to put the bathroom (rear or mid), where to put cabinets, where to put windows, where to put the breaker panel, where to put a sink, where to put the fridge, where to put a couch or a dinette. You will have to think about the weight of each item so that you do not overload one side or set of tires. You might weigh everyting you put in your MoHo to get an idea of its dry weight.

There are others here that can think of many more things to think about than I. All of these things are just part of a puzzle to solve and part of the fun of it all.

Good luck,

Steve
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:15 PM   #33
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Geophilist is giving some excellent advice. I could not agree more. We're a little far away from Tulsa, but if you're ever nearby feel free to crawl all around ours. If you can find a member nearby with a 345/325 it would go a long way toward "visualizing" your end goal.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:25 PM   #34
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I would slow down a little if I were you. A motorhome floor is not something you just "rip out". It might be better to consider repairing/replacing only the damaged areas instead.

My floor in our 86 345 is 3/4" (I think) OSB. It's layed on top of aluminum sheet stock (water proofing) which is undercoated on the bottom. All of this rests on a 1" x 1" steel tub grid, which is then bolted to the P30 chassis rails.

This method of construction might lend itself better to "scabbing in" replacement OSB within the grid structures than dealing with a complete replacement. I fear you would need to deal with the floor to sidewall attachment point in a "full monte" situation and don't know if there is enough motorhome floor replacement experience around here to help you out on this one.

There is another member on here (87MH) which has studied the floor contruction more than anyone else I've run into. I would consider sending him a PM (Private Message) with a link to this post. He might shed some light and good suggestions on this project for you.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:26 PM   #35
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Also, one forum suggestion. While you are posting your specific question in each area of interest, I find myself answering something in one post, but then seeing something related in another. It may make sense to open a post about your unique RV, then in this single post get out all of your questions and running anwers from members.

Jumping around makes it a little hard to follow everything going on with your questions.
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Old 08-06-2007, 06:41 PM   #36
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Rivet Good Suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
Also, one forum suggestion. While you are posting your specific question in each area of interest, I find myself answering something in one post, but then seeing something related in another. It may make sense to open a post about your unique RV, then in this single post get out all of your questions and running anwers from members.

Jumping around makes it a little hard to follow everything going on with your questions.
I second the motion. Many of us are interested in your project and plan on tracking your progress.

Vaughan
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:49 PM   #37
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Sorry for jumping around

Sorry for jumping around - I wasn't sure if I should have a post for each "project" or just try to keep one long thread alive. I guess I thought people would stop reading a post after it has been there a while.

I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow of the rotted areas. It seems to be concentrated around the wheel wells and the edge (about 3 inches) of the flooring in the back. The rest seems okay, except it feels a little soft - something i didn't notice when the carpeting was still on.

I tried to get a look under her today during lunch. But the heat index here in OK was about 107 with 10000000% humidity... A very quick glance and it looked like most of the sheet metal was in tact (except around the wheel wells).

Sounds like I need to tell him to hold off until I have a better game plan. I figured that would be the case - that's why i kinda panicked when he said he was going to rip out the flooring tomorrow...

Have ya'll (Okie for you all) had any success getting feedback from AS Corporate? I still need to figure out what type of plywood for the scab-in approach.

Thanks again, I truly appreciate it!
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:52 PM   #38
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I'll have our 28' MH at the Branson MO Rally Oct. 12. Our Genset (Onan gas 4.0) compartment is located behind the passenger side rear tires. I recently removed the genset and will replace w/ a set of Honda 2000; parallel wiring and fuel. Since we do most of our "camping" in state parks w/ electric, I didn't see the point of carrying the 200# genset when I might use it only 5% of the time. Now I will be able to carry the 2 Hondas if we need them, otherwise I'll use the storage space for charcoal, tools, etc. Made a nice "garage" for more of my stuff.
Going to mount the Onan 4.0 on wheels and have outfitted several circuits in our house with legal genset transfer switch for power outages at home. I'll wire a 30amp RV plug to the genset for "exercising" it in the driveway.
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Old 08-06-2007, 07:53 PM   #39
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Just my two cents worth. Going with Propane has the added advantage of being a much cleaner burning generator. That is important as there is always a chance of shipping exhaust gas and might as well keep the carbon monoxide risk down. Beyond that be very picky about the exhaust system and relative air intakes.
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:02 PM   #40
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Obviously I have a lot to learn here. For some reason, I assumed you wouldn't use the generator while on the road. I feel stupid now - obviously the dash AC won't keep the beast cool while rolling down the road...

Thanks to everyone for the input. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow of the location of the existing trays and whether or not one of these areas would work for cutting in a generator door. Sounds like LP Onan right next to the battery tray might be the way to go...
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:49 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2it
Thanks to everyone for the input. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow of the location of the existing trays and whether or not one of these areas would work for cutting in a generator door. Sounds like LP Onan right next to the battery tray might be the way to go...
Something to think about when deciding what fuel to use for your generator is how big is your propane tank. Your fridge and furnace work off propane and typically the tanks installed aren't exactly huge. Also, for a 2 A/C motorhome you're probably going to need a 6.5 to 7kw generator and running one that size on propane will drain a small tank in short order. I would do a study to find out how much propane would be required to run the generator for one hour. I think you'll be surprised at the amount required. When you're driving all day and expect to run the generator to keep the A/C units running you're going to use a LOT of propane.

Likely, a different regulator setup would be needed and you'll have to worry about propane tank freezing when having such a large draw on the tank as a generator would.

At home we have a 10kw propane standby generator and have been told anything smaller than a 200 gallon tank would eventually freeze up while running the generator. During my test run using two 30 lb bottles I watched the bottles start to freeze and that was with no load on the generator.

Should you decide on a gas generator I'm betting your main gas tank probably has the suction tube installed for a generator so all you would have to do is run the rubber hose from the tank to where ever you locate your generator.

Just food for thought.

Brad
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Old 08-06-2007, 08:58 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New2it
I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow of the rotted areas. It seems to be concentrated around the wheel wells and the edge (about 3 inches) of the flooring in the back. The rest seems okay, except it feels a little soft - something i didn't notice when the carpeting was still on.

I tried to get a look under her today during lunch. But the heat index here in OK was about 107 with 10000000% humidity... A very quick glance and it looked like most of the sheet metal was in tact (except around the wheel wells).

Sounds like I need to tell him to hold off until I have a better game plan. I figured that would be the case - that's why i kinda panicked when he said he was going to rip out the flooring tomorrow...

Have ya'll (Okie for you all) had any success getting feedback from AS Corporate? I still need to figure out what type of plywood for the scab-in approach.

Thanks again, I truly appreciate it!
Most definitely hold off cutting out the floor. Its a lot easier to patch that it is to replace and if the patch is done right it will be just as solid as it was when new. I'd have your carpenter friend look at using biscuit joints for patching in different sections. They are easy to use and make rock solid joints.

If you rip the wood floor out you'll have to contend with the aluminum sheet metal skin that is under the wood floor. I would think you would want to disturb that skin as little as possible.

By all means post all of your progress and questions in one post. Thats something I need to learn to do myself!

Looking forward to pictures of your progress.

Brad
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