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bobkelly · 08-06-2007, 10:02 AM

New---I don't have any input for you, but someone will come along soon who does. In the meantime, inquire at the AS factory for their ideas on this topic. Good luck.

lewster · 08-06-2007, 11:45 AM

Most MoHo's I have worked on have a gen of some type. The fuel source is really up to you. Gas is a PIA because you have to continually exercise them or they gum up and won't start.

LP is a nice alternative as most MoHo's have an LP system, and it wouldn't be hard to add one onto your clean slate. They run well and don't require any of the maintenance that a gasser does.

Diesel is also a great alternative, but only if you had a diesel tank and diesel engine.

I would go with LP if I was in your position. Onan makes a bunch of nice LP gens designed for RV use. Honda also has a model for RVs. They are usually placed in a basement compartment with an open floor for venting.

Let us know if you need any other info..................

swebster · 08-06-2007, 12:23 PM

New2it,
Welcome. The generators in the 345 (looks like your might have been based on the 345) were located under the sofa/dinette. The genny compartment is on the driver's side with about 1/2 below the floor and 1/2 above.

They had gas or lp fueld Onan 6.5 NH-RV generators (some had Kohlers). Even the deisel powered motorhomes had lp generators.

Here are some pics of mine for your reference:

swebster · 08-06-2007, 01:06 PM

It looks like a 345 with no windows. Check out fred's site (Fred's Airstream Archives - Airstream and Argosy Travel Trailers and MotorHomes) for pics and floorplan of similar year/models.

While it doesn't have side windows, it doea appear to have vista views installed (which is pretty cool). Windows can be added (by you or an Airstream dealer or even Airstream).

A lot about this project will depend on your budget and what you want our of a motorhome. If you want a "stock" 345 then you need to start thinking about not only floorplans, but plumbing, eletrical, holding tanks, generator, fridge, kitchen, bulkheads, etc.

The big question is - how do you plan to use it? Obviously the longer your trips (a month, full time, etc) the more "RV" stuff you'll need in there. The shorter your trips (weekends, concerts, tailgating) the less RV specific equipment you'll need.

Another option would be to look for a "junked" 345/325 out there and use it as a donor for this one.

swebster · 08-06-2007, 01:17 PM

I should also point out that it's worth the effort depending on what you plan to do with your project. Running the roof airs in the Tulsa summer is the only way to cool the coach, especially when underway. This generator will power two or your five (remove three, keep one spare and sell two)...it's also handy if you travel longer distances and want power in a wal mart parking lot at 12:30am.

As I mentioned in my other post, what you plan to do with your motorhome will drive a lot of these decisions for you.

New2it · 08-06-2007, 01:17 PM

Ok, that makes more sense. My 345 doesn't have a "basement" w/exterior access. It only has extra trays (about the size of the battery tray) - it has 3 or 4 in addition to the battery tray.

So, this would be a fairly big undertaking - requiring a custom exterior/vented door.

I think I'll have to put this on the back burner for right now because a buddy of mine (who is a custom cabinet maker) is about to tear the entire floor out and I can't find any info about doing this on a MoHo. I'll post this in a new question and come back to the generator questions...

Thanks again!

New2it · 08-06-2007, 01:24 PM

I have some really rotted spots around the wheel wells and at the very back. The floor and metal underlayment are rotted completely through around the wheel wells (you can see the axle/ground).

Anyway, I have a buddy (cabinet maker) who is going to rip the whole floor out tomorrow. From what I can tell, this is a huge undertaking with a trailer - you have to lift the shell off. Am I getting ready to make a big mistake by telling him to go ahead and rip out all the old OSB?

Also, is there a consensus on the width of plywood and/or use of marine grade plywood? I'm thinking either hardwood laminate or cork flooring over the sub floor.

Sorry for switching gears - just felt a little stressed when he said he was going to do this tomorrow...

Minnie's Mate · 08-06-2007, 01:28 PM

You might even consider a custom van conversion company. They can often do nice work on RV's. It all depends on the company and their skill level. If you are not a good carpenter or have other skills necessary, you might consider a custom coach company and just give them a limited budget and see what they can do. The sky and price tag is the limit. But your budget probably isn't so just have them scale back to fit whatever it may be. Considering the paint job, even if you found a donor, you wouldn't be able to get back to stock, so you might as well enjoy having a truly unique 345!

swebster · 08-06-2007, 01:31 PM

Keep in mind the "floor" in a motorhome is just a subfloor. It sits on top of a 1 x 1 steel framed grid, which is then bolted to the chassis. It's very different than a trailer floor.

vswingfield · 08-06-2007, 02:36 PM

While you are checking RV salvage for windows, why don't you try to locate gen-set door and accessories. Congrats on your cabinet maker friend.

Vaughan

Minnie's Mate · 08-06-2007, 02:42 PM

While you have the floor out, you should probably go ahead and dedicate one of the trays to a generator and frame out the space above it so that it will make it easier to install a generator at some future date. Even if you never install one, at least the space will be available for a future owner should you ever, perish the thought, decide to sell. I have a funny feeling that you will wish you had after the first summer road trip you take and find that the dash air is in no way near enough to cool even the front of such a cavern like space.

One you might also consider: call David Tidwell (?) at Roger Williams Airstream. They have some pretty nice stainless steel aftermarket doors for exterior compartments on Airstream trailers so they might have something that would work for your motorhome, or they might be able to custom fabricate a door that would be appropriate. They might also be a good source for basement doors for other storage needs (trust me, you'll need all the basement storage space you can get).

Geophilist · 08-06-2007, 04:33 PM

Just a thought, but have you been inside and around a classic AS? I would recommend that you spend some time in one and around one, or two or three. That would give you ideas about how certain problems were solved by the factory. Like where to put a fresh water tank and a black water tank, and how to frame in a genset. Where to put the bathroom (rear or mid), where to put cabinets, where to put windows, where to put the breaker panel, where to put a sink, where to put the fridge, where to put a couch or a dinette. You will have to think about the weight of each item so that you do not overload one side or set of tires. You might weigh everyting you put in your MoHo to get an idea of its dry weight.

There are others here that can think of many more things to think about than I. All of these things are just part of a puzzle to solve and part of the fun of it all.

Good luck,

Steve

swebster · 08-06-2007, 05:15 PM

Geophilist is giving some excellent advice. I could not agree more. We're a little far away from Tulsa, but if you're ever nearby feel free to crawl all around ours. If you can find a member nearby with a 345/325 it would go a long way toward "visualizing" your end goal.

swebster · 08-06-2007, 05:25 PM

I would slow down a little if I were you. A motorhome floor is not something you just "rip out". It might be better to consider repairing/replacing only the damaged areas instead.

My floor in our 86 345 is 3/4" (I think) OSB. It's layed on top of aluminum sheet stock (water proofing) which is undercoated on the bottom. All of this rests on a 1" x 1" steel tub grid, which is then bolted to the P30 chassis rails.

This method of construction might lend itself better to "scabbing in" replacement OSB within the grid structures than dealing with a complete replacement. I fear you would need to deal with the floor to sidewall attachment point in a "full monte" situation and don't know if there is enough motorhome floor replacement experience around here to help you out on this one.

There is another member on here (87MH) which has studied the floor contruction more than anyone else I've run into. I would consider sending him a PM (Private Message) with a link to this post. He might shed some light and good suggestions on this project for you.

swebster · 08-06-2007, 05:26 PM

Also, one forum suggestion. While you are posting your specific question in each area of interest, I find myself answering something in one post, but then seeing something related in another. It may make sense to open a post about your unique RV, then in this single post get out all of your questions and running anwers from members.

Jumping around makes it a little hard to follow everything going on with your questions.

vswingfield · 08-06-2007, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swebster

Also, one forum suggestion. While you are posting your specific question in each area of interest, I find myself answering something in one post, but then seeing something related in another. It may make sense to open a post about your unique RV, then in this single post get out all of your questions and running anwers from members.

Jumping around makes it a little hard to follow everything going on with your questions.

I second the motion. Many of us are interested in your project and plan on tracking your progress.

Vaughan

New2it · 08-06-2007, 06:49 PM

Sorry for jumping around - I wasn't sure if I should have a post for each "project" or just try to keep one long thread alive. I guess I thought people would stop reading a post after it has been there a while.

I'll try to get some pics up tomorrow of the rotted areas. It seems to be concentrated around the wheel wells and the edge (about 3 inches) of the flooring in the back. The rest seems okay, except it feels a little soft - something i didn't notice when the carpeting was still on.

I tried to get a look under her today during lunch. But the heat index here in OK was about 107 with 10000000% humidity... A very quick glance and it looked like most of the sheet metal was in tact (except around the wheel wells).

Sounds like I need to tell him to hold off until I have a better game plan. I figured that would be the case - that's why i kinda panicked when he said he was going to rip out the flooring tomorrow...

Have ya'll (Okie for you all) had any success getting feedback from AS Corporate? I still need to figure out what type of plywood for the scab-in approach.

Thanks again, I truly appreciate it!

zamboni · 08-06-2007, 06:52 PM

I'll have our 28' MH at the Branson MO Rally Oct. 12. Our Genset (Onan gas 4.0) compartment is located behind the passenger side rear tires. I recently removed the genset and will replace w/ a set of Honda 2000; parallel wiring and fuel. Since we do most of our "camping" in state parks w/ electric, I didn't see the point of carrying the 200# genset when I might use it only 5% of the time. Now I will be able to carry the 2 Hondas if we need them, otherwise I'll use the storage space for charcoal, tools, etc. Made a nice "garage" for more of my stuff.
Going to mount the Onan 4.0 on wheels and have outfitted several circuits in our house with legal genset transfer switch for power outages at home. I'll wire a 30amp RV plug to the genset for "exercising" it in the driveway.

rmpray · 08-06-2007, 06:53 PM

Just my two cents worth. Going with Propane has the added advantage of being a much cleaner burning generator. That is important as there is always a chance of shipping exhaust gas and might as well keep the carbon monoxide risk down. Beyond that be very picky about the exhaust system and relative air intakes.

New2it · 08-06-2007, 07:02 PM

Obviously I have a lot to learn here. For some reason, I assumed you wouldn't use the generator while on the road. I feel stupid now - obviously the dash AC won't keep the beast cool while rolling down the road...

Thanks to everyone for the input. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow of the location of the existing trays and whether or not one of these areas would work for cutting in a generator door. Sounds like LP Onan right next to the battery tray might be the way to go...