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Old 11-29-2014, 04:27 PM   #15
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That's a dilemma! I need some sort of a prioritized load center. Something that would disconnect the hot water element if the load maxed.
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Old 11-29-2014, 04:47 PM   #16
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My boat had an Atwood 6 gal with engine heat exchanger and electric..worked fine for the 16 years I had the boat. Makes sense that a MH would have a heat exchanger in it...free hot water.
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Old 11-29-2014, 07:59 PM   #17
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I love mine. It's great to take a hot shower after a long drive. It also makes it easier to do dishes after stopping for lunch during the trip.

Gregsch: If you haven't done it yet, my MH uses copper line from engine to area of water heater. It looks a lot like the thinner walled rolled copper tubing. They are connected by flexible heater hose that is common for autos.

tevake: I plan on getting the electric also version should I have to replace my current water heater. For the power i was going to tap off the isolated circuit that runs the 2nd A/C unit off the generator. There would also be a switch box that would automatically disconnect the generator when plugged in at a campsite. This circuit would be plugged into the extra 20 amp. This way I don't overload the 30 amp main circuit and would be able to keep the water hot at all times. Unless it's so hot I need both A/C's. I imagine there would have to be a switch between A/C and heater, but haven't given that much thought yet. Still dreaming/ planning ahead for that day.
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Old 11-30-2014, 06:56 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Dog Nite View Post

Gregsch: If you haven't done it yet, my MH uses copper line from engine to area of water heater. It looks a lot like the thinner walled rolled copper tubing. They are connected by flexible heater hose that is common for autos.
Ricki, Sounds like your install was re-done post factory. My came with rubber radiator hose (1"?) going all the way back to the hot water heater and heat auxiliary exchanger under the aft bench seat. I disconnected mine where it splits of the engine. Basically ran a hose from the output to the return isolating the engine. I was afraid of leaks in the 23 year old hose!
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Old 11-30-2014, 12:36 PM   #19
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tevake, My project has stalled temporarily but, I have finished the electric connections and the hot and cold connections. I have not fired it up yet but I assume it will work fine this way. My electric panel had several open spaces in the panel so I just added a dedicated breaker. I did a search on e-bay for the breaker needed and sure enough there were several listings for old used breakers that fit my 1979 breaker panel. If you do not have a open space for an additional breaker try searching for a 1/2 size breaker. I have done this on other projects. You just remove one full size breaker and replace it with two 1/2 size breakers.
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Old 11-30-2014, 02:16 PM   #20
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This is a picture of the breaker panel in my shop. Several times I have added circuits. See the small breakers on the left. They are 1/2 size breakers used to gain space when adding circuits. Be forewarned the manufacturer knows what you are doing with them, and how few other options you have, so they are priced accordingly. Expect to pay 5 times as much for the thin breakers.
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Old 11-30-2014, 02:36 PM   #21
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Some breaker panels also prevent you from using thin breakers with notches in the bussbar ends the
Breaker goes on. No notch, no doubles. Ran into that a few times. Make sure box will take them.


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Old 12-01-2014, 07:02 AM   #22
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Great suggestions for solving the electric supply issue.
So far the original breaker box is doing the job for my unit and I would like to stay with it if possible. Will look into the thinner breakers to see if one will squeeze in there.

Gregsch, wondering about the hose that runs from your inlet to the out let , is that a bypass?

Thanks Richard
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Old 12-01-2014, 07:30 AM   #23
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Adding a breaker generally isn't the problem. 50 amps is my problem. I need to have a priority selector, either manual or automatic between a AC unit and the electric hot water. Both roof AC units push it close to the max for either shore power or the generator.
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Old 12-02-2014, 05:25 PM   #24
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Richard, Yes that is a bypass. Bought it on ebay. The manufacturer is Camco. It comes in set with everything you need to complete the installation.
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Old 12-05-2014, 01:48 PM   #25
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Kota: 50 amps supplies 50 amps to both sides of the system so you have about 100 amps total. 12-13 amps for the electric hot water and less than 16 amps for AC still leaves plenty of room on either side. Of course, you can't run both on the generator output which is usually 20 amps on one side and 30 amps on the other.
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