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Old 06-03-2014, 04:19 PM   #57
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That is so cool. What a good idea. So, without a tank, when plugged into the regulated side and filling a tire for instance, you can set the regulator on what ever tire pressure you desire and it will shut down when it reaches that pressure. Then on the unregulated side it will just continue to run. Correct?

I wouldn't trust that regulator to adjust your tire pressure precisely. They seem to be better at regulating line pressure at a flow rate. The line pressure seems to bump up a few pounds when the flow stops.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:25 PM   #58
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Absolutely, i was just trying to think of an example of how the regulator would work. It just seems like a really good, portable solution to carrying a more powerful compressor on board. Its another one of those "duh, why dont i think of things like that" moments.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:27 PM   #59
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Please refrain from answering my self imposed question above.
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Old 06-03-2014, 04:28 PM   #60
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Originally Posted by mayco View Post
That is so cool. What a good idea. So, without a tank, when plugged into the regulated side and filling a tire for instance, you can set the regulator on what ever tire pressure you desire and it will shut down when it reaches that pressure. Then on the unregulated side it will just continue to run. Correct?
It still has the pressure switch inside the plastic cover that turns it on and off at I think about 120 psi. Without the reserve tank it cycles more frequently but not as much as you would think. I don't use the regulated side to inflate tires because the regulator probably restricts the air flow a bit and the higher pressure differential fills the tire faster. I use the gauge on the tire inflator. When I blow out the water system to winterize I set the regulator to about 40 psi. and connect it to the water inlet and let it run.
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Old 06-15-2014, 05:50 PM   #61
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Tinkering this weekend. Ran into the following questions:
1. What is the part in the center top with the two wires going into it, and a lead wire going into the HVAC housing? From what I can tell it is part of the AC circuit, because it began smoking while it was on, and stopped when I turned it off. Looks like it may contain a diaphragm, but as you can see the top wire is overheating. Until I figure out what this is, I cannot use the Dash AC.

2. Data shows all diesel pushers of this year had black tank flush. Second picture is what shows an inlet and a household type spigot. What is each one for?

3. Last is the water reel. I assume this is an optional way to fill the water tank/pressurize the system. If it is, what are the other two for?

Thanks for taking a look!
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Old 06-15-2014, 06:13 PM   #62
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1. All electrical devices run on smoke! They stop working when you let the smoke out.

That is a different configuration than mine in that I don't have one. There are two pressure switches that prevent the compressor clutch from engaging if the freon pressure is to low or two high.

The faucet next to the tank flush can is just from the pressure side on the pump.

The hose real is your water hookup. It won't fill the tank.
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:11 PM   #63
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So that AC part is the 'Thermostatic Switch.' Still looking into what caused the heat issue.
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Old 06-16-2014, 05:47 PM   #64
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I misspoke slightly. The two function pressure switch turns the pump off (opens the clutch circuit) if the freon pressure is two low to protect the pump. The high pressure side turns on the electric fan on the condenser on.

The one with the two wires and the copper tube is the thermostat that cycles the pump.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:34 PM   #65
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Turns out the dash A/C issues I was troubleshooting, and did not make any sense, were all symptoms to a root issue. The overheating was due to short circuiting. The short circuiting also fried my over/under pressure switch, (currently bypassed) which I discovered is not mounted on a schrader valve (the hard way). The actual issue that caused all my woes was the compressor harness connector. It was worn through the insulation due to engine vibration, and would short circuit on the compressor body. So I cut it, spliced it, wrapped in in electrical tape, reconnected and monitored. Held Dash A/C for 1 hr. longest it has gone yet. I think she might be road worthy for our summer trip now.
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Old 06-16-2014, 07:37 PM   #66
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Latest issue I am working on now: The PO or perhaps AS has the HVAC draining water into the front compartment. There it sloshes around until it makes its way out. I would like to install a drain tube, and route it through the hole in the floor with all the HVAC stuff. Anyone else experience this design flaw and attempt to fix it?
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:23 PM   #67
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Latest issue I am working on now: The PO or perhaps AS has the HVAC draining water into the front compartment. There it sloshes around until it makes its way out. I would like to install a drain tube, and route it through the hole in the floor with all the HVAC stuff. Anyone else experience this design flaw and attempt to fix it?

Here's the latest find on mine.

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Old 06-17-2014, 12:58 PM   #68
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Quote:
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Latest issue I am working on now: The PO or perhaps AS has the HVAC draining water into the front compartment. There it sloshes around until it makes its way out. I would like to install a drain tube, and route it through the hole in the floor with all the HVAC stuff. Anyone else experience this design flaw and attempt to fix it?

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Mine has a condensate drain.
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Old 06-17-2014, 05:18 PM   #69
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360 Diesel Pusher

One downside of these coaches is the integration of the AS body to the Spartan chassis. Both the body and chassis are quality factory built units. Seems like they must have contracted out the final assembly work. I've ranted about it before and keep finding things that make me curse. All of the previous owners issues can be attributed to a poor workmanship and lack of attention. The good thing is most of the flaws can be easily rectified. Bad grounds and poor crimps on cheap smash on terminals have caused most of my electrical problems.

My dash A/C and heat have always been problematic. This was the power to the dash control from a breaker on the key on bus.

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Old 06-17-2014, 08:45 PM   #70
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Dakota/Air Dog,

Can you get a P/N or picture of the fitting for the condensate drain?

This is a closeup of mine.
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