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Old 12-17-2007, 04:34 PM   #15
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Having the rear window blow out would not be fun for whoever was behind.
Also it wouldn't be fun if they're the type bent on screwing you through the legal system, i guess that's what we have to live with as travelers.

In the meantime I will replace the side window with lexan even though the material apparently clouds after a few years. I will make sure they seal inside of the grey moulding too.

Those who have long time in the industry probably already now this and could set me straight on the details, but the company who produced the classic motorhome side windows was PPG (in Macon, GA). They probably still have the mould but from what I hear (Sonny from AL) they will only do a minimum run of 10,000! Limey, I don't need that many, maybe a couple of spares!

I'm also thinking of removing a good side window and taking it to a glass maker as a mould, there's a place not far from me (Americus, GA) who make custom tempered glass.

As for the rear curved window that's another thing. You have me thinking about that one Mr.Rogozinski.
What kind of cabin pressures exist as we drive down the road?, and at what speed does it become a problem. I have yet to take my 345 over 65 mph and usually stay at 55mph or 3700rpm much to the annoyance of many an interstate driver.

I could add extra rivets around the edge of the window frame so that they go through the lexan too, that theory may work.

Or how about replacing the rear window with a nice curved sheet of aluminum, cut back on some uv rays, good idea klattu

Of course I would like tempered glass back there, but that may be a while yet.

I'm thinking of naming my 345 'the challenger'

Right rear side banana wrap anyone?
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:03 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbundi
Having the rear window blow out would not be fun for whoever was behind.
Also it wouldn't be fun if they're the type bent on screwing you through the legal system, i guess that's what we have to live with as travelers.

In the meantime I will replace the side window with lexan even though the material apparently clouds after a few years. I will make sure they seal inside of the grey moulding too.

Those who have long time in the industry probably already now this and could set me straight on the details, but the company who produced the classic motorhome side windows was PPG (in Macon, GA). They probably still have the mould but from what I hear (Sonny from AL) they will only do a minimum run of 10,000! Limey, I don't need that many, maybe a couple of spares!

I'm also thinking of removing a good side window and taking it to a glass maker as a mould, there's a place not far from me (Americus, GA) who make custom tempered glass.

As for the rear curved window that's another thing. You have me thinking about that one Mr.Rogozinski.
What kind of cabin pressures exist as we drive down the road?, and at what speed does it become a problem. I have yet to take my 345 over 65 mph and usually stay at 55mph or 3700rpm much to the annoyance of many an interstate driver.

I could add extra rivets around the edge of the window frame so that they go through the lexan too, that theory may work.

Or how about replacing the rear window with a nice curved sheet of aluminum, cut back on some uv rays, good idea klattu

Of course I would like tempered glass back there, but that may be a while yet.

I'm thinking of naming my 345 'the challenger'

Right rear side banana wrap anyone?
Ah, your fun is just now getting started.

Lexan with AR-2 will not discolor in time. The AR-2 means it is abrashion restant on both sides. We demonstrate it to our customers by scrubbibg it with steel wool. Within reason, it won't touch it. But it costs almost double, than the regular lexan.

We have been after out plastic supplier for some solar gray Lexan, either plain or AR-2. We are told it does not exist. Either that's the case, or we need to change suppliers.

It doesn't take a lot of pressure to blow out the plastic window, but along with a good gust of wind hitting your motorhome at even 50 MPH, can be more than enough.

Insurance will cover your loss, since it was a collision. If the don't, then your homeowners policy will.

Replacing the window with an original will save you in the long run, a lot of time and grief.

Sure you can cover it with metal, and then fiberglass insulation. Then what do you do with the other side?

Questions, questions, decisions, decisions.

That's part of the learning curve when you become an Airstreamer.

Good luck with your choices.

We have all the motorhome banana wraps made with fiberglass.

But, it also looks like you will have to have a serious man to man talk with that rear bumper.

Andy
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:18 PM   #17
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Pop Art

First things first...
Get the back-up camera working.

Since the rear bumper is a loss...
Time to customize.
Bound to something you could come up with to be more useful than what once was.
Mayb nerf bars?
Or how about bending it back as close as you can...
Then wrapping it with 1" sisal rope like they did on WWII Jeeps.
Or how about that heavy rubber extrusion used on truck docks...
Is simular to the white stuff used on boat docks...only heavier and black.
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Old 12-17-2007, 07:20 PM   #18
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Wait...bend the other side to match
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Old 12-18-2007, 08:24 AM   #19
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Colaws salvage

Was parting out a 1989 moho a while back, don't know if they have anything left but worth checking on.
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:11 PM   #20
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What did you end up doing about this ?
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Old 01-19-2008, 04:52 PM   #21
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here's what i've done so far

The Story so far. Apologies for such a long post.
I fixed my side window with a piece of clear lexan (13 x 29) which cost $15. It wasn't too difficult removing all the bits and pieces, just quite a few steps. I pretty much followed the steps in this thread. In time I will replace the same piece with solar gray lexan AR2, more about plastics in a moment..

First off was cleaning out the mess

Here is the shattered tempered glass after my, er accident, rather the pebbles than shards.




Big close up of the dent I'm going to have to straighten.




After a couple of times with the drill flying off the rivet I found a center punch for denting the face of each smooth rivet. So many nuggets of information on these forums. Many thanks.




The beltline and rubrail had to come off to expose the bottom of the window frame.




Rear portion of the rubrail removed.




Using a flat wooden stick to prize the frame away from the body and a screwdriver to keep it open.



A few phillips screws and a couple of rivets to remove and inside plastic piece is taken off.




Lots of sticky gooey stuff




More goo




goo in the corner



Frame off





Time for a cleanup



The neighbors kid who shot my side window with the offending weapon in view. I could throttle him, the little s#*t! According to my local rv dealer beebee pellets cause untold upset.




Tools for cleaning the junk off the frame. I won't be using the paint stripper on the coach though, who knows where the rivet holes lead to.



Plastics

The name Lexan is GE's brand name for polycarbonate.

Famous shot of Buzz Aldrin. Notice the polycarbonate helmet faceplate?




Not wanting to have to clean up any more glass or pay outrageous prices for salvaged corner pieces I'm going to use this stuff.


There's a few other things to bare in mind. Regular polycarbonate with the abrazion resistant coating will not bend the 70-80 degrees needed for a corner window. I could use abrazion resistant acrylic, but then this material is not as strong. Another thing, when sizing the template you have to calculate in 1/16 inch for expansion of the plastic within the frame.

The piece you see below is gray polycarbonate 24" x 48" bought from Plastic Tanks, Plastic Buckets, Plastic Bottles, Labware, PVC Pipe - United States Plastic Corporation ®. These people have awesome customer service, I'd fully recommend them. Some other websites never got back to me, or when I called didn't have answers to my questions or just weren't interested.




I clamped the lexan around the frame and took a pencil and marked the inside edge. The depth into the window frame is 1/2 inch. Compensating for expansion I marked the template accordingly.




Now for a gotcha.

When measuring the window on the good side of my coach I got 22" by 41". I thought a 24" by 48" piece from usplastics would do the trick. However, I found out that when the plastic was laid flat you have somewhat of a kidney shape.

I'm about 1/4 inch short either side, see below. Bummer. This is where I am today, waiting for another piece of lexan (due Monday).

When it comes in I will be drilling through the frame edge and lexan and putting rivets in several places to hold it in from potential blowout, am thinking about two rivets per foot.




When that parts done I'll be there with some vulkem and sealing strip (not sure what to use yet), and should be good to go. Hope the holes line up!

I pulled the bumper straight with a heavy duty strap and ratchet, couldn't find a suitable mailbox to bend the other side to match.
Just need to call inlandrv for a price on a rear banana wrap, providing they're in stock and then it will almost be like before.




Oh yeah, the blue belt had to go.

Will post when it's done.
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Old 01-19-2008, 05:30 PM   #22
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Fantastic

Great job and info.
Glad to hear Lexan can be used.
Bumper looks really usable.

POS next door could use a visit from Anti-Clause
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Old 02-09-2008, 08:49 PM   #23
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in conclusion

I think i'm done for the time being

The new piece of polycarbonate came in. This time a custom piece from Interstate Plastics - Order plastic sheet and rod online. Plastic cut to size sheets of Acrylic, Acetal, UHMW and many others within 15/1000 of an inch tolerance can be ordered online. Their service all round was a bit shabby, but they do custom cuts which was attractive.

I had pictures of getting the plastic fitted to the frame, but computer gremlins got a hold of them!

So moving on to how to put the window back onto the moho:

Using some of this,



and the 'polyurethane formerly known as vulkem,'




i prepped the frame, added the tape,




then with 100 pack of olympic rivets, put the frame back into place.


YES, some of them holes didn't line up, what a pain in the ...! If it were glass i'm sure it would have broke by now.

Taking note of a possible blowout mentioned in a previous post, I riveted the plastic to the frame.



With appropriate portions of vulkem the job is almost complete.





All I need to do now is save up for a rivet shaver and put aside some time for a detailng.

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Old 02-10-2008, 08:52 PM   #24
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Congrats

Looking good. Nice work.
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Old 02-10-2008, 09:13 PM   #25
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beding Lexan AR-2

Quote:
Originally Posted by elbundi

There's a few other things to bare in mind. Regular polycarbonate with the abrazion resistant coating will not bend the 70-80 degrees needed for a corner window.
When measuring the window on the good side of my coach I got 22" by 41".

Great job.

Usually you can get the frame apart, but have a very togh time, if not impossible time, getting it back together again.

We have .118 Lexan AR-2 for 66, 67, 68 Airstream windows, if someone wants that instead of tempered glass.

In ou website, your can see that Lexan material coiled, in a 360 degree circle.

Also we have taken scrap pieces, put them in a brake, and bent them at a very sharp 120 degree angle.

Since the material is basically bullet proof (if it was thicker) we have bent it in many different ways, and have yet to make it crack.

It's better, than "good" stuff."

Andy
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:00 PM   #26
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I guess I am not the only unlucky one, my 89 345 window has the same problem, it is on the fixed side. I wondered if I moved the frame towards the center if it will lift out. If so is there anyone to send it to for replacement of glass with lexan. If not, is the window lip seal available just as well to replace that while I have the glass out
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