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Old 01-21-2007, 03:37 PM   #1
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310 brakes

As one of my front brakes is binding a little after releasing the pedal, I am going to change the front hoses and while I am at it completely change all the brake fluid. I have assumed from various bits of information that any DOT 3 fluid is acceptable, but has any one have an idea how much is needed to completely flush and fill the system on a 1982/3 310?

Thanks
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Old 01-21-2007, 05:31 PM   #2
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Thumbs up flush

Hi Chuck
I did mine I bought 2 qts of dot 3. when you have the tire off check the disk brake mounts where the disk slides. rust will build up and cause the slide action to bind. flush the system till real clear fluid comes out then press the pedal a few times then flush again see how dirty the fluid is . if clear your done.. Hope this helps.
Bob
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Old 01-21-2007, 05:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuckles
As one of my front brakes is binding a little after releasing the pedal, I am going to change the front hoses and ...
My problem ended up being a binding caliper. The cost for a rebuilt unit ended up being so reasonable that I replaced the other one while I was at it.

Bad hoses usually just make the pedal spongy.

Tom
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Old 01-21-2007, 10:42 PM   #4
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Thank you Tom and Bob for your reply. I hope to get started tomorrow so will keep you all posted on progress or otherwise!

The beast is going for the annual MOT test on the 31st so it has to be ready by then.....
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Old 01-22-2007, 11:27 AM   #5
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Bad hoses usually just make the pedal spongy.

This is not alwas the case! I have had twice hoses that gone bad on the inside that kept the caliper binding. Not on the MoHo but on my wife's Bonnie SSEi and my son's blazer!

Just a heads up, they still could be your problem!
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Old 01-24-2007, 01:15 PM   #6
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Well it was rather interesting…. The CS calliper that was binding and the one that was last to operate, was dry! Possibly caused by the hose or one massive air pocket. Any way the hoses are now replaced and all the fluid changed, so that’s one item out of the way. Unfortunately I had to go to another job and leave a pal to finish off, but the finding was that the front CS calliper was the one binding and dry, when the pedal was released, and the RS calliper was doing most of the work.

The rear are apparently are OK, but on occasions must be slow to release or bind in some way as One can hear the binding sound coming from the rear. This only happened once on returning to my winter quarters down a very narrow and bumpy lane to the barn. One thing that is quite apparent, is that the response at pulling away from stop is very much improved, vindicating the effort in spending time and effort to get the brakes right.

So now we have new fluid, new front hoses and a lot less effort on the pedal, not to mention that it remains in a straight line when breaking.

While it was up in the air one thing I noticed was the lack of drain plugs in the gear box and the back axle – who though that one up?
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Old 01-24-2007, 08:59 PM   #7
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The hoses on all these GM chassis MH s deteriorate from the inside out
and the rubber closes up and acts like a one way valve kinda thing .you apply
the brakes ,fluid is forced thru the blockage by pedal /master cyl pressure.
When released ,you don't have any real pressure going back against that blockage and the calipar stays on /binds /drags .Good rule on any GM p-30or other 1 ton GM truck is to change old hoses in pairs is the best way .If one
does it the other will as well .

Scott
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Old 01-25-2007, 05:13 PM   #8
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Quite agree there Scott. For the cost and while they are down, doing brakes in pairs always makes sense. The only hose I didn't replace this time was the rear, but that is another day, another service!
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Old 01-28-2007, 08:33 AM   #9
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Chuck, the transmission is drained by taking the pan off. Have a new gasket ready when doing this. Don't be tempted to use the old gasket. For the realative cost of synthetic I'd make the change. Tranny will run cooler.
As to the rear differential you should have either an inny or an outy... kinda like a navel. It will be on the back side of the pumpkin and is the fill / check hole for the gear oil that is the life of your rear diff. Should give you about a 3/4" access hole. Just dip your finger inside and if you get it oily you're good to go.... unless you've had to dip way low from the hole...
Synthetic here is good too. We don't seem to change rear diff. oil until it's too late. Pinion seals and axle bearings can burn up and cause all kinds of $$$ trouble. There has to be a place to check and fill the rear end.
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Old 01-29-2007, 04:14 PM   #10
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Glen thanks for the tip. I am having trouble locating the gaskets for the rear axle(diff) and the Auto Transmission. Any Ideas, are they all the same or is there many different types/models?

And what oils; Synthetic in axles seem to be a new thing here - or I am out of touch!

On the brakes, it was very interesting. The Caliper that was binding and slow to operate was dry!!!. The conclusion being one hell of an air lock, or the hose collapsed altogether, any way new fluid, front hoses and a good bleeding has done the trick - I Don't have to stand up to brake............!
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Old 01-29-2007, 08:54 PM   #11
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Chuck, you might search Amsoil for synthetic oil info. your rear end gasket is easy, just look at it from behind and count the bolts. The shape is thse key.... either oval or sumwhat of a squared off diamond shape.
http:/ /www.airstreammotorhomes.com/docs/VIN_chevy_chassis.pdf
know your VIN..... find a parts guy with GM smarts. The tranny should a stamped number on the pan....again count the bolts.
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