1991 Classic 350 LE

[martin300662]

Very nice, I'm a big fan of the LED lights and not just for energy saving.

[wxbuoy]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Very nice, I'm a big fan of the LED lights and not just for energy saving.

Thanks! I am a fan because of the long life and low power user. With the fluorescents my converter was running all the time, now all I have is quiet! Not to mention the safety aspect of the cooler LEDs.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by wxbuoy

... Also got one of the led running lights to test out. May do that when the weather gets cooler...
Attachment 247401

I just replaced all ten of my running lights with LED's. The old ones were corroded and intermittent. The difficult ones to replace are the rear 3 center ones, since they are mounted directly to the skin. Many LED's running lights have a flush mount to the skin with only 1/4" recess where the wire comes out. This will not match the entry point of your wires.
Unless your rig already uses the #13 housing for those three, you will have to find LED's that have sufficient space on the back to route your wire or else you will experience a short sooner or later.
The other 7 are mounted to a housing which allows plenty of room to reroute the wires.
They do sell the #13 housing that would eliminate that problem
Aluminum marker light housing #13

[wxbuoy]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

I just replaced all ten of my running lights with LED's. The old ones were corroded and intermittent. The difficult ones to replace are the rear 3 center ones, since they are mounted directly to the skin. Many LED's running lights have a flush mount to the skin with only 1/4" recess where the wire comes out. This will not match the entry point of your wires.
Unless your rig already uses the #13 housing for those three, you will have to find LED's that have sufficient space on the back to route your wire or else you will experience a short sooner or later.
The other 7 are mounted to a housing which allows plenty of room to reroute the wires.
They do sell the #13 housing that would eliminate that problem
Aluminum marker light housing #13

This is why I love this forum!!! A solution to a problem I didn't yet know I had. Just went out and checked.... Looks like I am gonna pick up 3 of the #13 housings.

Thanks Peter!!!

[wxbuoy]

yikes! I just saw the price of the #13 housings!! $38!!

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by wxbuoy

yikes! I just saw the price of the #13 housings!! $38!!

Or find LED's that have the space in the back to route the wire.
Maybe Dan at Led4rv can help. I would think he is aware of the issue.

[mayco]

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/5101824

I installed these from Fastenal and they worked great, installation was a breeze.

[dadstoy]

That's where we all go those! I couldn't remember ;(

Installed mine a couple weeks ago. No issues front or rear.

Originally Posted by mayco

https://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/5101824

I installed these from Fastenal and they worked great, installation was a breeze.

[wxbuoy]

Dean/Mayco,

Thanks! Just ordered them. The are on sale for $3.48!! I now remember you all saying something about it, but that was back when I wasn't worried about that yet (had to get drivers chair first!) I also can't for the life of me remember where I wrote the note about it.... I need to do a list of things I need/want and source of supply.

[mayco]

Yep, thats what I paid months ago. They seem like good quality little lights.

[wxbuoy]

Sitting in a different camp ground this saturday for our overnighter/fixer upper. Cleaned all the old deteriorate insulation out of the generator bay. Well as much as I could reach with hands and shop vac. I am afraid I will have to take out the generator to do it right..... Not looking forward to that!

Also replaced the old dometic refer. The coils had a leak and it was venting ammonia. Getting new coils would have been $400 and probably another $100 for the ignition board that was messing up before the leak. So I would have been 40% if the cost of a new one just for parts that I was sure I had to replace.... It would be closer to 80-90% if I had someone else do the work. Made more sense to replace since there is no intrinsic value in that style. There was no direct replacement for that exact size. We either had to go 3" bigger or 2" smaller.after looking at the space we decided to go smaller. It would have required extensive mods to the cabinet above and it would have just cleared the curve at the 24" depth. Basically square peg in round hole. Which is possible only if you can make hole big enough!

Here is what the new fridge looks like. It is a norco NX64. It came with faux wood panels (stainless steel model wasn't readily available- at least 2 weeks and shipping. It also cost $350 more! Had a local shop cut large fridge stainless steel panels to size for a total cost of $75. Saved $275 in the process. We think it looks good and matches the rest if the galley.



Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Keyair]

Which genset do you have Dave?

I would seriously consider putting it on some slides...
Brad did it first and I copied...

Info on page 2 of my oil leak thread here...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...k-64381-2.html

[wxbuoy]

Key,

Great to hear from you! I was going to go back through your thread to see how you did that. If I am gonna pull it, I am gonna put it on slides to make maint easier!!

I have the Onan Emaerald III 6500 (actually 6300 since it is propane).

How hard is it to unbolt and drop/lift outta there?

[Keyair]

Dave,
I have not pulled mine all the way out so far.. I did however, pull it out far enough without disconnecting the electrical.

On mine, there is the main electrical cables(in a flex conduit), fuel line, ground strap and exhaust.
The genset itself is contained on a steel "pallet", and my MH floor is a solid sheet, so the genset slides out after removing the outer skin panel. I just disconnected what I needed, and pulled it out onto a motorcycle lift. My slides are rated at 500lb fixed and 300lb mobile(genset complete is 300lb plus), but I added a couple of bolts to lock it in place. I used some angle iron to adapt the slides to the pallet... I think the pics are better than my words.
On my setup, I added a switchable gas valve that allows me to run the genset from a gas can if I want. Not sure if you could or would want that for propane...

[bkahler]

Dave,

Converting your genset compartment to drawer slides is not overly difficult. It takes some time and planning and as as Steve mentioned some angle iron. I consider the drawer slides to be the single best modification I made to the 310.

Removing the generator to prepare it for drawer slides is probably the hardest part. On the 310 and 345 coaches the floor of the genset cabinet can be unbolted and he whole works lowered straight down. The floor/tray is made of about 1/8" plate steel that has cutouts for the exhaust system. To drop the tray Steve's idea of using a transmission jack is an excellent tip. I had access to a tractor with pallet forks in front so I used that to remove and then re-install.

Now I have what's called a motorcycle jack that would probably work just as well for lowering and raising back into place.

I think the one mistake I made when adding drawer slides to the 310 was to buy drawer slides that only allow the drawer to slide out 2/3. For my Argosy I bought a pair of 26" full extension slides rated at 500 lbs from McMaster Carr. Part # 6603A49.

These are longer than you would need for your drawer as I have to insert the generator from the end (i.e. narrow end sticking out) instead of from the side like most generator compartments. My Argosy compartment is not typical which complicates things greatly

Another suggestion for your installation is to use 10 gauge 3-conductor rubber SO cord from the generator to the coach electrical transfer box. You'll need two cables, one for each circuit. One last suggestion is to use heavy duty extension cord connectors between the generator and the electrical box. In other words go ahead run the SO cords between the generator and the coach making sure you make them long enough to allow for full drawer extension and then cut each cord in the middle and install plugs and sockets such as these.

Female - 7162K46
Male - 7162K41

I didn't use these on the 310 and wish I had as it would have made removing and replacing the generator so much easier for future maintenance. On the 310 it was a really tight fit trying to access the wire connections in the coach and about the same for the generator connections themselves. If I had used these plugs there is no need to touch the coach or generator wiring again. I plan on using them in my Argosy.

Brad

[wxbuoy]

Thanks Brad!

Good idea on the plug connection. I plan to replace the junction box in the generator space with a 50 plug attachment. That way I can have the generator deliver the 20/30 or use the camp ground 50 amp service to run both A/C's

I briefly looked at it this afternoon and I think mine is built a bit differently. Will look at it closer next weekend and post some pics. I really don't want to have to remove the plastic molding on the side of the coach. It is pristine and drilling out rivets is gonna screw it all up... There has got to be a better way to do it.

[wxbuoy]

Originally Posted by dadstoy

That's where we all go those! I couldn't remember ;(

Installed mine a couple weeks ago. No issues front or rear.

Dean,

Just saw this. My airforum's app is acting screwy lately. Your right they loo great! Thanks for the tip!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by wxbuoy

Thanks Brad!

Good idea on the plug connection. I plan to replace the junction box in the generator space with a 50 plug attachment. That way I can have the generator deliver the 20/30 or use the camp ground 50 amp service to run both A/C's

To me, anything you can do to make the generator easier to disconnect and remove is worth doing. You don't have to use the type of connectors I suggested, you could use a couple of dryer cords (find the 30 amp style) and mount two boxes with female sockets on the inside wall of the genset cabinet connected to your transfer switch. Lots of options available.

I briefly looked at it this afternoon and I think mine is built a bit differently. Will look at it closer next weekend and post some pics. I really don't want to have to remove the plastic molding on the side of the coach. It is pristine and drilling out rivets is gonna screw it all up... There has got to be a better way to do it.

Definitely post pictures. It surprises me that Airstream ran the trim across the generator compartment.

Brad

[wxbuoy]

Well DW and I put down the floor this weekend. We put in a tiger strip bamboo floating floor. I am sure it is not to most peoples taste but we like it an it has all the different colors of the other woods (beds, cabinets, doors and bulkheads) not to mention the new chairs!... The hardest part was the first 6 pieces. We spent a lot of time figuring out where the center of the RV was so we would have even rows. And the new LED lighting is incredible! I can easily see to work at night.

[dadstoy]

I love the flooring! Great job!


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums