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Old 01-03-2013, 04:12 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
I like the way the toilet door folds... never seen that before!
Can you seperate the front living area from the toilet/shower?

I assume your back will benefit from a mattress in the bedroom sometime...

On the subject of your rear view camera... did you see the simple little cover I made for my ugly white aftermarket camera...
Key; Yes there is an accordion door just forward of the wardrobes that than separates the forward part of the coach from the bathroom area. So when you close the two off you have a very large bathroom with the shower and both wardrobes in it! it is bigger than the one in our house!

I had an air mattress back there for the trip home, but mamma and my back opted for the hotels. Going to use the one out of our trailer. May get a new one, but depends on how the rest of the renovations go.

I like you camera cover, but I don't have the metal fabrication skills that you do! The other thing I was thinking was if I use the old housing, not only do I get the retro feel, but I can put in 3 CCD's in that huge body. One pointing aft and than 2 down to either side. So I would have a full 180x 90 degree view of the back area. The pic below shows what I am thinking. The middle one would be a 120 degree spread with the sides overlapping with it. My art skills need work as well!

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Originally Posted by t7389sg View Post
I need a new camera. Did your camera hook up to the original din plug in the Moho or did you snake a new coax cable through the coach?
I am interested in what Key did as well. They out a new wireless transmitter in the back for mine, I assume to avoid having to snake a new wire and eliminate the wire run as one of the possible issues.
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Old 01-03-2013, 05:29 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by t7389sg View Post
I need a new camera. Did your camera hook up to the original din plug in the Moho or did you snake a new coax cable through the coach?
If I remember correctly the cable that runs from front to back has a coax cable embedded inside a multi-conductor cable.

Not sure if that answers your question or just confuses the issue

Brad
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:00 PM   #59
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Dave,
Mine was installed(poorly!) by some PO... and it is wired.
Its a Voyager, which I gather is a pretty good make, but still B&W.. but does have IR LEDs.
Seems to work well regardless.
As for my "Metalworking Skills"...
LOL, not so much!
It was a scrap of aluminum sheet... I made a cardboard template for the rough shape, and bent it over a socket... then offered it up to the MH sitting on top of the camera and ran a marker pen around it.
Cut that line with a tinsnips... and tried it again and again until it looked close enough... Then used a marker to guestimate the rear edge, and cut that with snips..
Here it is in a rougher stage...


A quick file, and 5 mins on the buffer and it looks good enough to fool most people!

I made a very simple bracket from an offcut of aluminum about 3/4"x 6" and bent that into a U shape. It uses the camera body bolts.
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Old 01-03-2013, 06:27 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Dave,
Mine was installed(poorly!) by some PO... and it is wired.
Its a Voyager, which I gather is a pretty good make, but still B&W.. but does have IR LEDs.
Seems to work well regardless.
As for my "Metalworking Skills"...
LOL, not so much!
It was a scrap of aluminum sheet... I made a cardboard template for the rough shape, and bent it over a socket... then offered it up to the MH sitting on top of the camera and ran a marker pen around it.
Cut that line with a tinsnips... and tried it again and again until it looked close enough... Then used a marker to guestimate the rear edge, and cut that with snips..
Here it is in a rougher stage...


A quick file, and 5 mins on the buffer and it looks good enough to fool most people!

I made a very simple bracket from an offcut of aluminum about 3/4"x 6" and bent that into a U shape. It uses the camera body bolts.

Metal working skills..... You got them whether you want to believe it or not. The only welding I ever did was JB Weld!
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:57 PM   #61
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Was over for a little bit this morning to check out the MOHO after all the rain yesterday. have a small leak on the drivers side under the drivers window.

Ran the gene and decided to take it for a quick run to keep everything charged and lubed.

I absolutely love driving that beast! What a thrill, mo hooking ip, no un hooking and love driving over the front wheels. When I got back to the storage lit there were two guys working outside the fence on the power lines. They just stood there and stared the entire time till I shut it down and hopped in my car and drove off 😎
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:20 PM   #62
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Yeah... get used to that grin...

On the subject of window leaks...

When your seals arrive... I can walk you thru the process if you need.. You have to take the sliding glass out to replace the seal.
The REALLY important part is making holes in the lower section of the glass runner U seal.
I used a propane torch and heated the tip of an old screwdriver, and melted holes. You cannot drill it because its got a wire reinforcement moulded in.
They do NOT have to line up with anything, just measure how long the lower channel is and I did holes every few inches.
Without the holes, the seal just fills up with water, and overflows into the cockpit because of the bodyside curve, the inside edge is lower than the outside edge!

As I am sure Brad will confirm, the window frame is a kinda H section, but the upper part of the H is taller and has a partial lip on the upper section... The fuzzy schlegal channel sits on that and there is still a gap of maybe 1/4" to 3/8" below it. If you look at the outside of the window frame, you can see the drain holes... my covers are long gone..
Here is a pic of the inside with the sliding glass removed and you can just about see the upper part shoulder where the seal sits...


In the outside pic, you can see the drain holes... The glass channel seal sits above the drain hole...
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:59 PM   #63
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Windows

Key,

Thanks for the info! I bet the PO didn't put holes in the H channel! I am in St Louis currently but when I get back on Sunday that is the first thing I am going to check out!

I appreciate the offer of walking me through the process! It will be a few weeks before I have the time to do it, But I will let you know. I have read some other threads on it and got a copy of the instructions that Inland RV includes with the gaskets. I still need to call them to order the stuff..... I was supposed to do that this morning before I left but got carried away and went tooling around in the beast!
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:39 AM   #64
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Anyone know how the pannels running down the center of the coach with the lights is attached? I want to pull one down but am wary about breaking what ever they are installed with that is no longer available and no solution exist to reattach with out....
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:33 AM   #65
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Anyone know how the pannels running down the center of the coach with the lights is attached? I want to pull one down but am wary about breaking what ever they are installed with that is no longer available and no solution exist to reattach with out....
Dave, I assume you're talking about the center ceiling panel that runs the length of the coach inside. If so on the 345 it was one full length sheet. Personally I found it a bear to deal with when I was dismantling the 345. From what I could see when I had it out laying on the ground, Airstream precuts all of the holes, etc. and then they must have a team of people walk the panel inside and pop it up into position. It fits into tracks on each side. The tracks are basically a strip of aluminum that has the edge folded over and the top panel slips into the groove where it is folded over.

Removing it by myself I couldn't keep from creasing the panel. Years ago I remember conversations with Overlander63 (Terry) where he described pulling the panel down for access so I know it can be done. At least I think it was Terry

Bottom line is unless you really need access to that area I wouldn't touch it with a 10 foot pole

I'm sure others have had success, but I didn't when I was working alone.

Brad
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #66
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If I remember correctly, the folks who have successfully removed it used a bunch of friends and those hand pump up suction cups. They attached the cups down the centerline then everyone pulled down.

Yuck...
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #67
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If I remember correctly, the folks who have successfully removed it used a bunch of friends and those hand pump up suction cups. They attached the cups down the centerline then everyone pulled down.

Yuck...
ok kay than, it looks like I will look at other problems first...! I am fairly good ignoring things I don't want to do, after all I have been married for 24 yrs!

Well, I need to redo my priority work list so I get what I need from sotrage next week. Wish I could find some indoor storage to work on this thing. It would be nice to be dry and warm!!
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:11 PM   #68
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ok kay than, it looks like I will look at other problems first...! I am fairly good ignoring things I don't want to do, after all I have been married for 24 yrs!

Well, I need to redo my priority work list so I get what I need from sotrage next week. Wish I could find some indoor storage to work on this thing. It would be nice to be dry and warm!!
Indoor storage? Boy do I wish...
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:47 PM   #69
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Weather here in Memphis is killing me! Between travel, rain, freezing rain, and snow it is impossible to get anything done or even looked at to see what needs to be done.

Was able to take down all the curtains 2 weeks ago. Sent one in to get dry cleaned to see if it was worth it to do the others. Pretty pricey. Must say I learned two things when they test curtain came back: 1. The curtains are white not beige. They look just like the kind we wanted to get! 2. $12 per is allot cheaper than getting new ones!

Now to take the rest over, and pay 1/2 a tanks worth of fuel to have them done.

Also took the 1991 airstream motor home owners manual into work and used the high speed scanner to scan it. Now all I need to do is find a place ONLINE to stick the 11 PDFs (one for each chapter and I am sure there will be many suggestions of where to stick them ) so I can put a link to them here and in the Classic sticky. May just start a blog to be able to stick all this stuff easily that I can't put here. I also have the Cummins service, parts and shop manual for the 6BTA in PDF as well. I am waiting for some poor schmuck to stick one more piece of paper in that scanner at work adn watch it implode!
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:11 PM   #70
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Warning, Will Robinson!

Those books are the property of Airstream to my knowledge and are under a valid opyright, and as such, we cannot host them here.

Not only that, but we cannot allow anyone to link to a location where pirated manuals are hosted.

In fact, I believe that if you check, you will see that Airstream still sells the 1991 Motorhome Owners manual.

Now, I'm not a lawyer, but I think if you look up the "Fair Use" part of the copyright statutes, you might see that a piece now and then is OK. But certainly not the whole book.
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