1991 Classic 350 LE

[wxbuoy]

Well, Following 3 Dog's post, I decided to replace mine as well. My house batteries were just not keeping a charge ( 2 years old) and before I put new batts in I was going to replace the converter with an updated 3 stage charger. When I went to check the voltage out I was getting 18.3V! No wonder the batts were trash! Darned lucky it didn't cause a fire.

I went about pulling all the batts out (house and start). I had no idea what was wired where and by whom in it's past, so I thought this was a safe precaution. It would also give me a chance to see what fed what when I put it back together. So everything was disconnected and shore power/Gen not hooked up.

Four screws got the front panel off. The I had to figure out how to take out the four screws holding it to the floor that weren't accessible.... Finally after some thought and a trip to Lowes, I removed the two drawers above it and used a ratchet with an 18" extension to get at the screws. What a PITA!



It was then a slow geometrically challenging process to wiggle the unit out of the cabinet. Since they didn't give you enough wire to pull it straight out, you hav to pull it out while turning it, but it is also just a hair long to make that an easy evolution!



So once it was out, the first thing I saw was the darkening on the circuit board in the exact same place that 3 Dog Nite had his short out. I think I dodged the bullet on that one!



After looking as closely as I could to 3 Dog Nites pics, I went about removing everything that wasn't part of the actual breaker panel... At one point I looked down and thought WTF did I just do?? Hope this works



For some reason, I picked up the multi-meter and checked the voltage. It read 6.8 volts. Hmmmm I took out all the caps and everything else. I have no idea where the volts were coming from. I checked all over and could not find any battery or power sources anywhere. I was getting 0 every other place I check voltage.

I got the converted in and am just waiting on the shunt to hook up the batter meter while everything is out and apart.

[wxbuoy]

Spent the day working on the power distribution panel and removing the old inverter/converter crap and trying to figure out how to make it work again!

Check it out here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f449...ml#post1375014

[wxbuoy]

So during the hole energenius thing, I found I had a short or ground on one of the 12vdc circuits. I was getting voltage on the 12vdc side while I have the batt isolater switch off. I know, I already ruled out a bad switch..... Actually I was getting a stray 8 vdc even with the power off and batts disconnected! So I pulled out all the 12vdc fuses, hooked up my multi-meter and plugged the back in.


The voltage came back when I put #3 back in. Now all I have to do is track down what has the capacitor that could be bleeding off voltage.....

One thing I do like about the whole restoration process is that you really learn your coach inside and out!!

[wxbuoy]

Does anyone know what this plug in power supply provides power too? It is connected to a white and grey wire that go into the wall. it appears to be set to 9vdc



I would like to use that outlet to plug my converter into. I could replace the converter plug to a different style to fit or run a chained outlet from that one or the one for the hot water tap..... but why bother if it doesn't do anything big. I can't imagine what they would run off of 110 to provide 9vdc to...

I plan on leaving it unplugged for the time being until I can find out what it powers or forget about it completely

[wxbuoy]

Remembered to take some picks of the work I did to the batts, converter and trimetric voltage/amp meter.

I talked to Randy from best converter and he suggested the boondocker power max, 60 amp 4 stage charger.
PowerMax PM4B-60 (60 Amp 4-Stage Converter/Charger)

I also picked up the Trimetric volt and amp meter with the 500 amp shunt from him as well.
Trimetric 2025RV Battery System Monitor

So here is my thinking. Good four stage charger. Probably more amps than what I need but better to much than too little. It was a coin toss anyway when I ran the numbers between the 45 or 60 amp one.

Trimetric to be able to monitor what the systems are doing and what is draining what. It was worth the $175 to be able to monitor things as I am working on them to find out where my energy eaters are and open draws/grounds I am not aware of. Which by the way I found a 0.5 amp draw with everything off. Hmmmmmmm.....

Decided to install the converter under the pots and pan drawer beneath the cook top.



And the Trimetric by the light panel inside the door. This was so I could easily see it when sitting in the main salon I used five wire thermostat wire from lowes for a fraction of the cost they wanted for the harness.




I put in two sears die-hard deep cycle marine lead acid batts. They will be plenty fine to run, test things for the next few years while I fix it up and do camp ground camping. Oh and run the heater while I am in it this winter!! Figure I can get 2 afternoons of work out of them before they need to be recharged. If I ever decide to do some serious boon docking I will look at the AGMS. Not to mention, if I do some thing stupid while working on the 12vdc I am don't fry the good stuff! (I also disconnect one of them while I am doing such work to cut possible losses by 50% ). I took to first + connection off the #1 batt and the first - connection off the #2 batt. I ran both house and start negs off the post on the shunt, but migh have to run a completely new Neg for the start batt. I am going to send Randy an email to see if the shunt can handle that kind of amps. It is a 500 amp shunt.....



While the start batt was out, I tested the emergency relay to tie the start and house batts together for extra amps to start the engine. By the way, this also allows me to start the Generator with out having the start batt installed (or dead start batt. Since they are 800 CCA each I could start the engine as well. Will test that out as well next time I take it for a spin around base.

[wxbuoy]

This was also posted in the classic motor home general area. Wanted to keep this thread as a record of everything.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f160...ml#post1393536


Decided to remove the microwave above the stove this week-end. It hangs down so far that it impedes using the stove easily. Simple, quick project since I have done it many times in homes. WRONG!



One thing can be said for classics, who ever put them together, did it to last! The over the stove microwave appears to be a factory installed. Most have 2 to 4 screws coming down from the top. Not this one. It is installed in a metal cabinet.

I have looked high and low for retaining screws with no luck. I can see where the micro wave is screwed into the metal suspension cabinet, but not how to lower that. You can see the screws, but can not get at them since the cabinet is above and the partition on the sink side.

I removed the panel between the over the sink cabinet and the over the stove one (the one with the front/rear a/c selector switch.



The only thing I can think of is to remove the cabinets..

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Since I am traveling over the holidays I at least have time think about this...

[bkahler]

Dave,

I honestly can't remember how I removed the microwave from the 345 when I dismantled it. I'll take a look at some of my pictures over the weekend and see if they will jog my memory.

I'm not so sure they built them to last so much as they built them starting at the back end working forward and the last one out the door was the loser

Brad

[wxbuoy]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Dave,

I honestly can't remember how I removed the microwave from the 345 when I dismantled it. I'll take a look at some of my pictures over the weekend and see if they will jog my memory.

I'm not so sure they built them to last so much as they built them starting at the back end working forward and the last one out the door was the loser

Brad

Thanks!

Good point about starting at the back and building forward! Now I am wondering if I want to do anything else now that most of the kitchen will be coming out....... Does it ever end?

[wxbuoy]

Well, not much progress due to holiday travel and the weather.

Trouble shooting the front furnace. It was running (firing) intermittently. Atwood hydro flame, appears to be an 8935. Most likely a very early model since one side of the sticker says wiring diagram for model 85-II and the other has model 8935. The burner assembly matches the open bottom of the 8900 series in the service manual...



Anyway, during the dis-assembly and cleaning I found a big ole mud dauber nest in the ignition chamber.



Didn't have a chance to test it after re-assembly due to freezing rain.... Just wanted to get home dried and warmed up!

[Keyair]

I got the Trimetric too... it was the best.
Keep up the good work btw!

[wxbuoy]

Not much work lately. Fell and screwed up my back last week. Lost a perfectly good week-end!

Did manage to finally figure out the mysterious plug I was talking about in post #184. It powers the monitor panel above the stove. Go figure....

[Mcwey]

Dave & Fel,
Bookmarked the page and will watch for updates! Glen said,"tell them to be sure
and send pics" SO we will watch for up-dates here!
Work hard in the winter because before you know it the HOT comes back.
Looking forward to your AS sitting in our driveway!
Monty & Glen

[wxbuoy]

Monty!

I searched High and Low for your forum name and couldn't find you! Yeah, Memphis is fickle it is too cold in the winter to work and to hot in the summer!

So have you started a thread so we can all live vicariously through your travels?? Glad some one is able to!

[wxbuoy]

Finally finished the flooring (sub flooring) in the cockpit area. With work, wx (weather) and old age, it has taken a bit.

You can see where the leaking side window seals took there toll:



Cut out all the bad stuff. Well, really just vacuumed out most of it



Decided to not take off the wall panels... I believe I can get just as good a result with out the extra destruction and time. It needs to be drivable next month and ready (aluminum tent) for a rally in June....

Made a pattern out of cardboard and notched it so the piece would slip under the aluminum side wall and not damage the drain tubes, and shifter cable. Once the pattern was in place in the airstream stuck a screw driver through all the bolt and screw holes to locate them so I could pre-drill them when I made the new floor. Transferred it to a piece of 3/4 plywood. and cut it out. Then coated the bottom and sides with the WEST system penetrating epoxy. I think this is the best solution between putting in regular plywood and the very expensive plastic board. Heck Airstream put in particle board back in 91' I am sure I will get at least another 25 years out of it since I fixed the leaking side windows and epoxied the wood.



Cleaned up and neutralized any rust with rust converter and sprayed black. The only thing wrong with the insulation was the aluminum had been worn off the top. So replaced it with heavy duty aluminum foil and taped it down with aluminum duct tape (the metal stuff not the cloth stuff). This will give the heat/fire isolation barrier back it's original, if not better, functionality.



Put the piece in place, put the seat bolt and safety belt restraining bolts in their holes to make sure everything was lined up. Then screwed it in place with new screws from Vintage trailer supply.



I also ordered some MLV (mass loaded vinyl; thanks Key!) to knock down some of the sound from the Diesel engine. Will cut the piece out before I re-install the drivers seat.

Plans are to have carpet and foam put down. This should make things quiet enough to hold a conversation up forward. O.K., I was happy with wearing ear plugs since I couldn't hear the DW over the engine anyway. But for some reason she wants to be able to talk....... I am now re-thinking the decision t put in the MLV.

All mistakes in spelling, grammar and content is purely the blame of old age, fat fingers and a really good Tempranillo, wine from the Riojo region of Spain....

[blmitch5]

Looking good. See you and this beautiful MH in June?

[wxbuoy]

You bet, that is why the big is push on! We have our site reserved and can't wait!

[blmitch5]

We are excited to see it!

[wxbuoy]

Felicia and I Spent the afternoon yesterday field-daying (extreme cleaning) everything. Wiped every surface down, swept and vacuumed, etc. trying to get all the dirt and dust created by the constructions (o.k. destruction ) So everything would be clean to start putting things back in.

Well, got the cockpit mostly done (for now anyway). Took out the saved floor patterns and measured the areas with out wood (behind pedals and steering column).



I really hate the iphone and taking pics. They always look right on the screen, but do not orient that way when uploaded!

Cut the MLV (mass loaded vinyl) to fit and spray adhesived down. What a bugger getting all the bends and curves below the steering wheel and pedals. Although I must admit getting the fricken roll of MLV in with out messing my back up (more than it is) or popping a hernia was the hardest part. 4ftx15ftx 1/4" roll that was 4ft long and 8" wide, but weighed....120 lbs!



Finally got everything cut and glued.



Put the re-upholstered drivers chair back in. Well actually it was the passengers chair that has been sitting in the house in plastic for 6 months. Haven't figured out if I am going to do the same with the old drivers side (future passengers side) or get a mac-daddy comfort lounger so who ever is not driving will be able to recoup in style and comfort.



Need to get some more hardware to install the seat belts. Putting in all new grade 8 vice re-using the old rusty crap.

[wxbuoy]

I took it for a 60 mile jaunt last week to stretch it's legs a little before leaving to drop it off. Wife and I drove 30 miles to cracker barrel to have lunch.

Was about to take it to get some exterior work done yesturday ( I don't due roof's due to back issues). When I was getting on the highway, it wouldn't come up to speed. Topped out at 45mph... Here is the thread dealing with that issue:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...ml#post1428846

So I have a tow scheduled for tomorrow morning... On the bright side I made it back tot he lot and didn't get stranded a few hours from home.

[wxbuoy]

Well, spent yesterday getting it towed and following it to the truck place. The shop it went to does nothing but delivery trucks, buses and motor homes.
Here it is all hooks up:



When I called Good Sam they said the would send a low boy, so I was a bit surprised when the truck showed up. I initially protested (I didn't have much to say because it actually slowed down to 5 mph by this spot on the road....)

The tow truck driver said he has towed a bunch of Airstream motor homes and lots of motor homes in general and to trust him. Yeah, trust the tow truck driver making $$ from a 3rd party payer.. Man, I was lost. Until he looked at me and said. 20 miles is nothing. I own a 325 and won't let anything happen to it.

Yup, he owed a 325 and not only knew exactly how to do it, but made sure I was in on the whole process. He asked what was wrong with it and I tell him I think it is something in the fuel system. Maybe the filters, but they only have a few hundred miles on them. Possibly the lift pump etc.

So he crawls under the moho and yells " pop on under here " So I did and He start pointing out things I want to tell the shop to look at when it is there and explains that he is inspecting the main rail for damage, welds, and structural integrity. He said it looked great and in better shape than most he has seen. He couldn't believe it was over 20 years old. So then he calls for his co worker and they take out the drive shaft to totally isolate the engine and transmission from the rear wheels.

I told him I was concerned about him lifting it since the back normally only has 16" of clearance to the trailer hitch. Again, he said don't worry and and trust me. He raises just a few inches off the ground and says he is ready to go. I was dumb founded and just stared. He said don't worry, we are going to go slow anyway.

So off we went. We got to the garage with me following and from behind if I didn't know better it looked like it was driving on it's own with really big side mirrors, a square cap and side exhaust stacks. I was digging the exhaust stack look.

Of course when we pulled into the truck shop lot everyone came out and gathered around. They have every size truck (except the 18 wheeler s which were at the shops other garage next door) and top end motor homes. And folks are starring at this one. So they unhook it, put the drive shaft back in and ask if I would like to jump in and put it in it's temporary spot 20 yards away.

I got in and was worried 1. that it wouldn't start and 2. that if it did it wouldn't go anywhere. All the while thinking that I could really mess something up! So I crank it and it takes about 3 seconds sputters and stops. Then starts right up on the next try. It backs up real nice no issues going slow and when I get out, I commented that it had never started that poorly before.

He looked at me and said " you have a cracked rubber fuel hose"

Okay, I am game, how do you know that. Well he says; you must have done a pre-check on it and when you moved one of the hoses it got a small crack from age. So when you drove it that morning and you picked up speed, it needed more fuel, therefore more vacuum in the line to get fuel to the lift pump and it sucked in more air through the crack so the greater the demand the worse the engine would perform.

"Just now, you had some air in the line when you went to start it. not allot but like you would get with a small crack. They also look like the original fuel lines as well."

It actually makes sense! It takes the new filters out of the equation. It allows the lousy performance as the demand/load increased vice the RPMs. Since it had no issues at first going to 1800 rpms in first then second gear, but started to bog in third. Then that went to bogging in second, etc.

Well, it just went into the bay this afternoon and they will call me at lunch tomorrow to let me know what is wrong and what it needs.

Before I left the shop, I asked the tow truck driver what the tow would have cost if I had paid for it out of my pocket instead of Good Sam. He said " You know I can't tell you that. But I will say you got your money's worth,.... For quite a few years."