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Old 02-18-2012, 07:43 PM   #85
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Only thought the jack stands is to use the frame rails at the point where the levelers are mounted, but this is just shade tree advice so please find a manual first.

About the floor: on our 310, when you are the ground looking up you are looking at the plywood subfloor that everything inside is sitting on. Luckily, we don't have any bad spots. If you do, you should be able to see from underneath.
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Old 02-18-2012, 07:45 PM   #86
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one other question, has anyone ever replaced the relay switches at the back of the battery tray drawer? They deal with the 'Chassis' and 'Coach' switches just inside the door of the motorhome?
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:16 PM   #87
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actually, maybe I meant to call those 'relay switches' at back side of battery pull-out drawer 'solenoid switches' instead. My control panel inside entry door doesn't seem to be working, the display lights aren't lighting up when I move the switches off or on.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:38 AM   #88
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Help with doorbell.

Anyone have a doorbell that isn't working? Ck'd the fuse in doorbell box under couch and it is fine. The bell was working fine for all these years and then just stopped. Is there a way to get the pushbutton out of the door handle. I can't see a way to get the door handle itself off the outside.
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Old 02-19-2012, 11:12 AM   #89
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Derek, our 310 has one switch and one solenoid on the back of the battery box. Looking at them from the back where the wires are, the solenoid is on the left. It is supposed to keep the engine battery isolated from the coach batteries unless you are trying to start the motor. I just ordered what I hope is a direct replacement from Amazon, it was called a "Tekonsha 7000 12 Volt 3 Terminal Battery Isolator".

The switch is on the right, it lets you turn off the coach batteries so that they do not drain when not in use. I haven't messed with it other than turning it on and off. If I thought it was not working, I would just bridge the wires and see if I got power inside.
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Old 02-21-2012, 09:40 PM   #90
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Hi Waipio Rim, I'll get under there tomorrow and see what I can do with bridging the wires. While I'm under there, I'll check the flooring. Could've sworn that watching the Airstream video on YouTube, that there is a aluminum pan that sits directly on the chassis, before any subfloor is put down. I'll check though. Thanks, Derek

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Old 02-21-2012, 09:44 PM   #91
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Who's motorhome is this? Klattuu? Can't seem to find him much on here any longer....
Thanks, Derek

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Old 02-22-2012, 12:07 AM   #92
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Derek,

Cool video of 80's construction, I saw the part about the aluminum sheet under the plywood. Either it got left out on our 310, or that's just the difference between 1984 and 1989.

Steve.
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:22 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waipio Rim View Post
Derek,

Cool video of 80's construction, I saw the part about the aluminum sheet under the plywood. Either it got left out on our 310, or that's just the difference between 1984 and 1989.

Steve.
Hi Steve, no idea about whether your rig got left out concerning the aluminum sub-floor sheet or not. Stinks that yours did though. Maybe some undercoating on the underside? Sure there's a few out there that may have same situation as you.
I wonder if this is the only video Airstream made concerning the Classic Motorhomes?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:55 PM   #94
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YEP...that would be Klattu's digs...I have been in his rig, and they have done nice things to it...his paint job is GREAT!!!

We had both solenoids replaced a few years ago(when I learned that shore power, generator power, and battery charger power do not play well together)...the inside the door disconnect switches are wired to a board which also did not want to play...luckily, a mobile mechanic got us down the road to a shop by using a well-placed paper clip in the board, and the shop was able to micro-solder the damage my lame attempts at fusion with all that electrical input caused...don't think that particular board is available, anymore...solenoids are off-the-shelf...
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:16 AM   #95
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Scrap, so just ditching the solenoids altogether isn't a good idea? Was thinking I'd wire the cables going to solenoids for chassis batter to see if that's my problem and if not, move on to the next possible fix.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:54 AM   #96
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Derek,
You would need to ask that question of someone more savvy than I...I learned by the pocket book method(and still am...)...my feeling is that the solenoids turned out to be large, somewhat expensive fuses...in my case, the expense could have been much greater...not an epiphany, but more like the first time you cross battery poles with a screwdriver and pliers...still have my solenoids(and adenoids, for that matter...ok, ok, TMI), and until told why not to, plan on keeping them...m
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:58 AM   #97
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Have you checked the cables running from the battery(ies) to the solenoid(s)? The in/out of the battery tray can cause wear spots on the cables, and do a slow(or not so slow) drain...
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Old 02-24-2012, 10:33 AM   #98
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Michael, I'll get under the moho this afternoon and check the cables, as well as disconnect 120V power, as well as batteries and wire cables at solenoids directly to each other and see if I can't get this Airstream started.
Thanks, Derek
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