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Old 02-16-2012, 06:28 AM   #81
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1966 24' Tradewind
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Greenville , Ohio
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You are welcome, I am glad it worked out for you.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:05 PM   #82
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg , Florida
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Floor Removal and Replace

Ok, so the more time I spend in my motorhome, the more I realize that the flooring at the shower/bathroom area is in great need of replacement. Has anyone ever tried the flooring replacement in the AS motorhome? Specifically the 345? Would I be best to remove all the walls, cabinets, shower and bathroom to get a complete replacement? Only reason I think I have issues, the shower really has a LOT of give when I stand in it, and the hall area between shower and bathroom actually has a 'slope' to it. Thanks for any advice. Derek
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Old 02-18-2012, 11:34 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunner View Post
The outer ring on the front of the ignition switch needs to be tightened clockwise. I have done this with a screw driver since I didn't have the three point tool that goes into the recesses in this ring. What I did was tightened it the best I could by inserting the screwdriver into one of the recesses and turning the ring as far as I could then finish tightening by turning the back of the ignition switch. I would make sure that the key slot was in the proper position when I had completed this process.
Thanks Gunter.

I was saving up a list of things to do the next time the dash panel was opened up. One less item now.

Two turns got mine fixed so the key just turns the ignition and not the whole thing. Without the support of this forum I would've given up a long time ago!

This forum is the best.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:27 PM   #84
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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has anyone tried this?

Need to put jack stands on the motorhome to hold it up while working underneath, but don't really know if there's a specific 'jack-point' on the frame. Any advice?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:43 PM   #85
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Only thought the jack stands is to use the frame rails at the point where the levelers are mounted, but this is just shade tree advice so please find a manual first.

About the floor: on our 310, when you are the ground looking up you are looking at the plywood subfloor that everything inside is sitting on. Luckily, we don't have any bad spots. If you do, you should be able to see from underneath.
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Old 02-18-2012, 06:45 PM   #86
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one other question, has anyone ever replaced the relay switches at the back of the battery tray drawer? They deal with the 'Chassis' and 'Coach' switches just inside the door of the motorhome?
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Old 02-18-2012, 08:16 PM   #87
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actually, maybe I meant to call those 'relay switches' at back side of battery pull-out drawer 'solenoid switches' instead. My control panel inside entry door doesn't seem to be working, the display lights aren't lighting up when I move the switches off or on.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:38 AM   #88
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Help with doorbell.

Anyone have a doorbell that isn't working? Ck'd the fuse in doorbell box under couch and it is fine. The bell was working fine for all these years and then just stopped. Is there a way to get the pushbutton out of the door handle. I can't see a way to get the door handle itself off the outside.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:12 AM   #89
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Derek, our 310 has one switch and one solenoid on the back of the battery box. Looking at them from the back where the wires are, the solenoid is on the left. It is supposed to keep the engine battery isolated from the coach batteries unless you are trying to start the motor. I just ordered what I hope is a direct replacement from Amazon, it was called a "Tekonsha 7000 12 Volt 3 Terminal Battery Isolator".

The switch is on the right, it lets you turn off the coach batteries so that they do not drain when not in use. I haven't messed with it other than turning it on and off. If I thought it was not working, I would just bridge the wires and see if I got power inside.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:40 PM   #90
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Hi Waipio Rim, I'll get under there tomorrow and see what I can do with bridging the wires. While I'm under there, I'll check the flooring. Could've sworn that watching the Airstream video on YouTube, that there is a aluminum pan that sits directly on the chassis, before any subfloor is put down. I'll check though. Thanks, Derek

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Old 02-21-2012, 08:44 PM   #91
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Who's motorhome is this? Klattuu? Can't seem to find him much on here any longer....
Thanks, Derek

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Old 02-21-2012, 11:07 PM   #92
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Derek,

Cool video of 80's construction, I saw the part about the aluminum sheet under the plywood. Either it got left out on our 310, or that's just the difference between 1984 and 1989.

Steve.
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Old 02-22-2012, 05:22 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waipio Rim View Post
Derek,

Cool video of 80's construction, I saw the part about the aluminum sheet under the plywood. Either it got left out on our 310, or that's just the difference between 1984 and 1989.

Steve.
Hi Steve, no idea about whether your rig got left out concerning the aluminum sub-floor sheet or not. Stinks that yours did though. Maybe some undercoating on the underside? Sure there's a few out there that may have same situation as you.
I wonder if this is the only video Airstream made concerning the Classic Motorhomes?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-23-2012, 10:55 PM   #94
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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YEP...that would be Klattu's digs...I have been in his rig, and they have done nice things to it...his paint job is GREAT!!!

We had both solenoids replaced a few years ago(when I learned that shore power, generator power, and battery charger power do not play well together)...the inside the door disconnect switches are wired to a board which also did not want to play...luckily, a mobile mechanic got us down the road to a shop by using a well-placed paper clip in the board, and the shop was able to micro-solder the damage my lame attempts at fusion with all that electrical input caused...don't think that particular board is available, anymore...solenoids are off-the-shelf...
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Old 02-24-2012, 03:16 AM   #95
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Scrap, so just ditching the solenoids altogether isn't a good idea? Was thinking I'd wire the cables going to solenoids for chassis batter to see if that's my problem and if not, move on to the next possible fix.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:54 AM   #96
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Derek,
You would need to ask that question of someone more savvy than I...I learned by the pocket book method(and still am...)...my feeling is that the solenoids turned out to be large, somewhat expensive fuses...in my case, the expense could have been much greater...not an epiphany, but more like the first time you cross battery poles with a screwdriver and pliers...still have my solenoids(and adenoids, for that matter...ok, ok, TMI), and until told why not to, plan on keeping them...m
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Old 02-24-2012, 08:58 AM   #97
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Have you checked the cables running from the battery(ies) to the solenoid(s)? The in/out of the battery tray can cause wear spots on the cables, and do a slow(or not so slow) drain...
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Old 02-24-2012, 09:33 AM   #98
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Michael, I'll get under the moho this afternoon and check the cables, as well as disconnect 120V power, as well as batteries and wire cables at solenoids directly to each other and see if I can't get this Airstream started.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:16 AM   #99
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Anyone know what this is?

Up under moho last few days trying to figure out why I can't get it started. Spotted this 'shock-absorber' set-up. It's attached at the front of the rig, with other end on the steering gear. Cheapie version of 'Steer-Safe'???
Thanks, Derek
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Old 02-27-2012, 10:17 AM   #100
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ok, now that I look at the photo closer, I see "Super-Steer" on the blue contraption above the shock absorber. Guess I'll go do a Google Search next.
Derek
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