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Old 03-26-2017, 06:06 PM   #603
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[QUOTE=crazeevw;1927554]Ok,

I'm outside on this beautiful day, decided it's high time to finally replace the battery tray slides while it's nice and semi-cool out there. Having the dickens of a time trying to determine how I'm going to remove this thing. If tray slides are like what I'm used to, once you get to a certain 'point' in travel, you either lift, or find a catch along slide to release the tray. Anyone have a clue or hint?

As well, came across the Evans Water-Free Coolant at some point in the past week. While it sounds pretty friggin AWESOME as far as MUCH higher boiling point, it's also pretty FRIGGIN EXPENSIVE! As in over $40 a gallon. With having the Aux Heater in cabin area, I'm wondering how many gallons of water/coolant is there in a 345? Anyone, Anyone?




Did a bit of research after work outside today. 27 quarts is 'cooling system capacity' for 454 engine. Sure that doesn't include Auxiliary Heating system that's optional for some models. Figure 10 gallons of Water-Free Coolant at $42.25 a gallon. Think I'll take some trips in Florida to see how the beast does before sinking over $400 into coolant replacement. This is where I've seen this mentioned Makes sense, raises cooling system temps, stops all corrosion in engine and engine components.
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:42 PM   #604
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Getting started again on interior.

1st is for bathroom and shower walls. Had installed in bath a bit ago, but original adhesive backing wasn't 'enough' with all expansion/contraction of walls. Since removed, 'flattening' out pieces and have bucket of adhesive to apply to walls, maybe even to squares.

2nd is for kitchen walls. When purchased, my 345 had kitchen walls painted white with blue paint 'sponged' everywhere. Great idea, but no prep work, so all light/electrical also white with blue paint. One square applied till Sunday. My 345 parked with curbside (kitchen wall) getting all of the afternoon Florida Western sun. I'll check on Sunday on kitchen to determine whether to finally complete kitchen.

Once those are done, believe I'll finish up fireproof barrier on cockpit floor and re-carpet that area. Then, time to rip out rest of carpet back to bedroom and install hardwood all the way, front to back, including bathroom.
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Old 05-07-2017, 08:37 PM   #605
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Ripped out rest of carpet and hardwood flooring today. Always seem to 'feel' a dip in floor at bath/shower area. Wasn't imagining anything. Seems I need to float in a leveler.

Anyone ever had to do this on RV? Regular Floor Leveler work? I'll see if I can't take a photo with 3 foot level set across area to show what I'm working with.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Derek
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:12 AM   #606
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Hey Derek,
I too had a couple spots where the subfloor dipped in between framing members. One of those areas was right where yours is. There's a reason for it and it has to do with the orientation of how Airstream ran the grain of the plywood. Personally I wouldn't use a leveling compound of any sort due to movement of the sub floor. I think it would break up in short order. I cut my bad spots out and replaced. Not a big deal, the trickiest part is getting your blade set to the right depth so you're not cutting into the aluminum sheet or framing members. Make sure your end joints rest on a framing member and run the grain of your plywood patch perpendicular to the framing. I used those large flat head self tapping screws to fasten.

Mike
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:39 AM   #607
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I agree with Mike. Any sort of leveling compound will break up due to the flexing of the chassis and/or the lack of strength of the plywood over time.

Airstream should have either used thicker plywood or more supports underneath.

Brad
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Old 05-09-2017, 06:42 PM   #608
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I agree with Mike. Any sort of leveling compound will break up due to the flexing of the chassis and/or the lack of strength of the plywood over time.

Airstream should have either used thicker plywood or more supports underneath.

Brad

Thanks for the tips on this. Subfloor in mine is the particle board. Never did get a chance to get outside to see how much I need. Here's where it's gonna get tricky I have a feeling!

Thanks, Derek
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Old 05-09-2017, 07:00 PM   #609
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
Thanks for the tips on this. Subfloor in mine is the particle board. Never did get a chance to get outside to see how much I need. Here's where it's gonna get tricky I have a feeling!

Thanks, Derek
It's not a good feeling me thinks.... Just remember, anything can be fixed.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 05-13-2017, 10:52 PM   #610
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Battery Tray Ground Strap

Another day, another project. I've pulled Battery Tray out, Ground Strap broken, have a feeling I'm missing part of it, as when tray is closed, it barely is even able to touch. Anyone have any idea how long ground strap is for 345 battery tray?

Thanks, Derek
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Old 05-14-2017, 05:09 AM   #611
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Derek, I don't know how long the cable should be but you can calculate it by opening the drawer all the way and taking a measurement. Don't make the cable any longer than necessary otherwise it will just hang down and try to snag things on the highway.

Brad
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Old 08-01-2017, 01:17 PM   #612
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So I can return Rivet Shaver

Three questions for the day.

Uncovering all sorts of past mistakes in my Airstream
1st and 2nd photo - Between door latch and door edge, looks to have been some sort of 'hasp' on the door. Skin not quite broken, but there are holes that will require rivets. Just go ahead and patch? I think I found what was there on someone's FB page, but they are useless when it comes to anything more than televisions (Keyair.....)
3rd Photo Even though photo shows one last rivet, it is now gone. I have this extra 'tab' of aluminum sticking out from upper door skin. Inner panel long gone, so I'm able to look at back, and no idea why, or how to remove this, save from tearing door down completely (not an option). Any thoughts on how to safely remove, or saw away this tab?

4th photo Anyone have ANY idea what that is between door latch and door edge?
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Old 08-01-2017, 01:31 PM   #613
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw View Post
Three questions for the day.

Uncovering all sorts of past mistakes in my Airstream
1st and 2nd photo - Between door latch and door edge, looks to have been some sort of 'hasp' on the door. Skin not quite broken, but there are holes that will require rivets. Just go ahead and patch?
I think I found what was there on someone's FB page, but they are useless when it comes to anything more than televisions (Keyair.....)

About all you can do is patch with Olympic rivets smeared with Vulkem or Tempro 635.

Quote:
3rd Photo Even though photo shows one last rivet, it is now gone. I have this extra 'tab' of aluminum sticking out from upper door skin. Inner panel long gone, so I'm able to look at back, and no idea why, or how to remove this, save from tearing door down completely (not an option). Any thoughts on how to safely remove, or saw away this tab?
Use a sharp utility or razor knife and carefully score along the edge of the top layer of aluminum. Keep scoring until you cut through the offending piece of aluminum.

Quote:
4th photo Anyone have ANY idea what that is between door latch and door edge?
If I had to guess I would say it might be part of a bracket used to hold the door in the open position. Most coaches I've seen have a hold open latch that catch the door when it is fully open against the side of the coach. Maybe this was someone's idea of doing something similar.

Brad
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Old 08-01-2017, 02:31 PM   #614
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I agree with Brad...
I would put the patch from the door edge to about 1" past the door handle/Latch to make it look right. Top to bottom, I would go from about the belt line to 1" below the handle.
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