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Old 10-31-2012, 10:44 PM   #295
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Steve, after a few emails back and forth between BKahler and myself, decided to go ahead and drill out a few rivets from the ceiling area. I was trying to back out the screws that went into the wood itself. But first, I've got to go and buy a nice rivet gun (should've done this long ago) and figure out the size of rivets I'm going to be replacing. Not pulling the whole street side of cabinets, only the one directly behind driver's seat. Rest are in good shape. Once removed, I'll post what I do next. Wood glue and dowels and lots of patience!

Of course, with possiblity of a few $ in the future, my mind is racing about 'possibilities'.
ChoctawMel has done a TBI conversion, this is one that I just found on Summit Racing. Is this a good price? Shop some more? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ed...olet/model/p30
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-01-2012, 05:49 AM   #296
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Steve, after a few emails back and forth between BKahler and myself, decided to go ahead and drill out a few rivets from the ceiling area. I was trying to back out the screws that went into the wood itself. But first, I've got to go and buy a nice rivet gun (should've done this long ago) and figure out the size of rivets I'm going to be replacing. Not pulling the whole street side of cabinets, only the one directly behind driver's seat. Rest are in good shape. Once removed, I'll post what I do next. Wood glue and dowels and lots of patience!
Keep in mind that the overhead cabinets on the road side are made up of two cabinet assemblies. The middle door (of five) will need to be removed and then you will need to remove the long 3" screws that tie the two cabinets together. I can't remember exactly how many 3" screws are used but it was at least 3 and probably 4. Once the door and the 3" screws are removed you will need to disconnect the electrical wiring going to the lights and speakers.

Once the above is complete then drill out all of the large rivets. Once the rivets are removed then you want to remove the screws holding the brackets to the ceiling starting at one end and working your way down while someone holds up the end up you started at.

The cabinets are fairly light and once down are easily carried by one person.

Brad
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Old 11-02-2012, 02:28 PM   #297
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Since I'm tearing it all apart

Ok,
So I got back out into the Airstream today 1st day since auto accident where I woke up feeling almost human again.
Anyhow, working still on upper cabinets, and decided to start tearing out kitchen area to work on wall-vinyl replacement. What a disaster this is going to be. Water damage at some point has made the substrate wood paneling to delaminate. Ahhhh, the joys of Airstream ownership. Have a feeling the water wasn't from window leaking, but from too much moisture buildup inside, and with the area being between window and door, that was where it was the worst in moisture area. Completely dry now, so.....
Guess I'll pull everything down, replace the wood substrate, and decorate with what got all this started in the first place.
Oh, when I really didn't have anything to do except sit, I finally ripped out last of florescent light parts out of Thin-Lites and got to work on getting LED light strips in there. They're really gonna look nice once all wired up.
Derek
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Old 11-02-2012, 03:27 PM   #298
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Here's one for the plumbing guys out there in Forum land. While camping last time, it seems that it takes a LONG time to get hot water from the water heater to the other side of the motorhome. Years ago, while working construction on new Disney hotels, they had pumps that kept the hot water flowing at all times so there was no water waste.
Know that this would require an extra set of water lines in the motorhome, adding some weight, but saving some water as well. Yes, I know, keep a water pitcher and save the water using it for toilet flushing, but, I kinda like the idea of more complexity, lol.
Any thoughts on the best way to do what I'm describing?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:05 PM   #299
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It has a bunch of names...
Contiuous flow, constant flow or looped.
It can be gravity fed or pump fed.
In a home, its easy to do... In a MH... not so sure..

The theory is that you just run a pipe from the furthest faucet back to the water heater, and feed it into the bottom or drain of the water heater, and because hot water rises, the cold water is drawn from the return loop, reheated and circulated... some systems need a pump.
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Old 11-02-2012, 04:21 PM   #300
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Weird!

Out pulling all the stuff above kitchen countertop, window trim, blinds, spick rack etc. Finding out that all of area above countertop, almost to upper cabinets is NOT aluminum, but is some sort of 1/8" laminate board (Luan???) I'm pulling away, and there is no aluminum back behind this wood at all.

Any thoughts as to what I should do next? The vinyl covering has gotta go. The substrate has to be rigid in order for me to to the covering I plan to do. Lamininate wood has had moisture at some point, so it's far from being rigid any longer.

So, guess what I'm asking, go find a appropriate size piece of aluminum and replace? Or stick with some replacement luan? Seems that the luan only goes right to cabinets, and judging from inside of lower cabinets, it stops about 6 inches below countertop.

Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-02-2012, 07:15 PM   #301
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Derek try to keep the wood paneling intact or else you will face further dismantling. I am sure you saw what I did to my walls in the kitchen:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...-75428-56.html
Other options are plastic ceiling tiles they sell at Home depot. They are easy to cut and will hide your damaged wood.
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Old 11-02-2012, 09:08 PM   #302
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Peter,
As bad as this paneling is, I'm going to pull everything and replace it. With what I know about wallpaper (pro-installer for WAY too many years) I know that in order to have the outside look good, what's underneath has to be just as good. Can't sleep, so heading outside to see what I can get torn apart before a nice shower.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-06-2012, 03:42 PM   #303
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A new rivet gun and I'm ready to go

In the middle of tearing out kitchen. Had entry door open, and to keep bugs out of AS while away from moho, I closed screen door.
Some PO had 'upgraded' the inner door skin with luan. OUCH! Then used a toilet bowl brush to paint it white! Of course, with my door being so out of whack, the luan had started delaminating.
Grabbed my drill and went to it.
Figured since I'm going to be purchasing aluminum for the kitchen, I might as well spend the extra $ and buy me a couple of pieces for the inside of entry door as well.
After removing the luan, found that the pink fiberglass was soaking wet, so ditched it as well. Have a HUGE roll of Reflectix so starting cutting up pieces to replace the fiberglass. Ended up with 3 layers of the Reflectix. Figure when I pull the luan off of the kitchen wall, I'll rip out the fiberglass there as well, and replace with the Reflectix.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:23 PM   #304
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Suggestions?

Ok,
I've removed a full coffee can's worth of screws and still unable to get kitchen sink cabinet removed from AS. Emailed a couple of the other 345 owners here on the forum, they've given me wonderful tips and suggestions.
Anyone else? At some point there just can't be anymore screws left, wouldn't you think?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:07 PM   #305
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Could there be some kind of contact cement...?
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:49 AM   #306
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Ok,
I've removed a full coffee can's worth of screws and still unable to get kitchen sink cabinet removed from AS. Emailed a couple of the other 345 owners here on the forum, they've given me wonderful tips and suggestions.
Anyone else? At some point there just can't be anymore screws left, wouldn't you think?
Thanks, Derek
Just a coffee can? Sounds like you've missed some

Thinking about it more over the weekend there are screws between the sets of cabinets, screws holding the counter top to the cabinet, screws holding the cabinet/counter top to the aluminum angle that runs along the wall, screws anchoring it to the floor and the sink plumbing.

Keep in mind it won't just "lift" out of there. You'll probably have to jerk on it a little bit to get it to move. Also you need to know that the counter top went in after the cabinet was fastened in place so you have to remove the counter top before anything else will come out. At least that is my recollection of how things are assembled. The counter top will be anchored to the aluminum angle that runs along the wall.

Brad
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Old 11-12-2012, 05:37 PM   #307
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And the Projects keep coming....

Brad, thanks for the tips. I'll keep removing screws. Hoping that I don't have to get the sledgehammer out, really want to keep the cabinets, with no splinters.

Of course, in the middle of one project, I start another. $ kinda tight, so getting done what I can when Federal Holidays present themself.

Found out today, New Isolator is not same size as existing. Like 5" longer, and there's no extra space! Believe I'm going to try and 'step' it off of the firewall, because of the horizontal frame that is below Isolator area.

Original Isolator 120amp, new 200amp. Guess bigger isn't always better, huh??

Anyone had this situation?

Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-12-2012, 11:22 PM   #308
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Ok,
I've removed a full coffee can's worth of screws and still unable to get kitchen sink cabinet removed from AS. Emailed a couple of the other 345 owners here on the forum, they've given me wonderful tips and suggestions.
Anyone else? At some point there just can't be anymore screws left, wouldn't you think?
Thanks, Derek
Derek,

Keep looking! When I pulled that cabinet out of my coach I had to go back and look for screws that I missed about a half dozen times. Eventually you'll get that last one that's still holding on. The folks at Airstream did not skimp on screws when they put these things together.
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