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Old 01-01-2012, 09:38 PM   #21
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Cleveland , Tennessee
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When we bought our MH, the windows didn't open either. I changed out all of the screens & now they open. To change the screens you need to remove the grey peice of plastic in the upper window track. They are held in place by 2 itsy bitsy screws.Then lift the window while removing the grey plastic from the lower track. The screen comes out by lifting them into the upper track & gently coaxing them out of the lower track. While they are out, clean the grey plastic well top & bottom & coat them with a dry silicone spray lubricant. The sliding glass part also comes out the same way. Clean the top & bottom of it as well. It's amazing how so little dirt on the grey plastic & under it in the aluminum track can keep the windows from opening. Be careful with those plastic peices as they are no longer available. You only get 1 chance to break them, so don't.
Helpful cleaning hint: Remove the 2 screws that hold the locking latch on the sliding part of window. This will allow you to slide the screen all the way over so you don't leave that dirty little strip on the inside of the glass. Replace these screw by hand, don't use a screw gun. They will strip out easy.
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Dog Nite View Post
When we bought our MH, the windows didn't open either. I changed out all of the screens & now they open. To change the screens you need to remove the grey peice of plastic in the upper window track. They are held in place by 2 itsy bitsy screws.Then lift the window while removing the grey plastic from the lower track. The screen comes out by lifting them into the upper track & gently coaxing them out of the lower track. While they are out, clean the grey plastic well top & bottom & coat them with a dry silicone spray lubricant. The sliding glass part also comes out the same way. Clean the top & bottom of it as well. It's amazing how so little dirt on the grey plastic & under it in the aluminum track can keep the windows from opening. Be careful with those plastic peices as they are no longer available. You only get 1 chance to break them, so don't.
Helpful cleaning hint: Remove the 2 screws that hold the locking latch on the sliding part of window. This will allow you to slide the screen all the way over so you don't leave that dirty little strip on the inside of the glass. Replace these screw by hand, don't use a screw gun. They will strip out easy.

3Dog,
Love to see some photos of your window repair. Still new to all of this, spending lots of time under and outside of moho, I'm just happy that the windows open somewhat compared to the rest of you. Actually surprised that Steve (Keyair) hasn't added his 2cents to the windows yet......
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-01-2012, 09:56 PM   #23
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Sorry Derek, no photos were taken at the time. I was hurrying to get it done as it was mosqito season. I have a screen to replace in the spring. Our grand puppy got excited about a squirrel in the yard last fall. I'll take some then.
Ricky
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Old 01-08-2012, 01:19 PM   #24
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To X-Chock, or NOT to X-Chock???

Ok,
I've seen these X-Chocks on multiple Airstream TT through the years. Can the tag axle on the Classic Airstream handle this sort of item? Anyone ever heard whether this is a great thing to have on the moho, or a complete waste of time and could possibly harm our non-replaceable tag axle?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:08 PM   #25
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Trailers don't have parking brakes or a parking "paw" in there transmission. Don't waste your money.
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Old 01-08-2012, 06:27 PM   #26
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Reason I'm asking about these X-Chocks, last time I camped, I DID have e-brake actuated, set the Levelers, and as I'm getting out of moho, the rig rolls off of the levelers, because of the sandy soil here in Florida. Even putting pads underneath the levelers, I still 'rolled' off the the levelers. Was told by neighbor RV'r, I needed wheel chocks, but thought maybe the X-Chocks would be something better.
So, I still need something to keep my rig from rolling in sandy soil, cuz that's all there is in Florida......
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-08-2012, 07:22 PM   #27
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Reason I'm asking about these X-Chocks, last time I camped, I DID have e-brake actuated, set the Levelers, and as I'm getting out of moho, the rig rolls off of the levelers, because of the sandy soil here in Florida. Even putting pads underneath the levelers, I still 'rolled' off the the levelers. Was told by neighbor RV'r, I needed wheel chocks, but thought maybe the X-Chocks would be something better.
So, I still need something to keep my rig from rolling in sandy soil, cuz that's all there is in Florida......
Thanks, Derek
The problem with these rigs is the parking brake is on the drive shaft. If one of the rear wheels looses traction the brake is useless. If you park on a slope and take too much weight off the rear wheels with the leveling jacks you risk loosing traction and may roll off the jacks. A wheel chock on the down slope side of the wheel with the most weight on it is the safest way to park.

I try to park with the front end down slope so that the lift on the rear leveling jacks is minimal to prevent this problem.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-08-2012, 08:37 PM   #28
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Dan,
Thanks for the information. Had no idea e-brake was on driveshaft, just thought it was on rear axle, as always. And yes, my drive axle wasn't completely on the ground when this happened. No big scare like I was moving that far. Remember, once you get over towards the coast line of Florida, the only hill there are, are the bridges going over local roads on the Interstate.
I did go buy a set of cheapie wheel chocks, so I'll use those.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:16 PM   #29
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Dan,
Thanks for the information. Had no idea e-brake was on driveshaft, just thought it was on rear axle, as always. And yes, my drive axle wasn't completely on the ground when this happened. No big scare like I was moving that far. Remember, once you get over towards the coast line of Florida, the only hill there are, are the bridges going over local roads on the Interstate.
I did go buy a set of cheapie wheel chocks, so I'll use those.
Thanks, Derek
Spring for some good chocks Derek, it's cheap insurance and it will probably make your leveling jacks happy not to be rolling off them too often especially if it's in the wrong direction.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 01-09-2012, 07:14 PM   #30
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Charger/Converter

So,
Only 4 days after ordering my new PowerMax Charger/Converter, it's here!
My only problem, anyone have any knowledge or instructions on how to access the Univolt?
I have the 345 Classic Motorhome. My power panel is located in the kitchen area, under the drawer section that is between the sink area and the stove-top.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-11-2012, 07:38 PM   #31
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Let the LED's begin!

Photo is a 'former' florescent fixture in the Airstream. Looking like I need to get back onto eBay and order more, especially if this is just enough LED's for two 5 watt florescent bulbs. Spent more time online than I care to admit, trying to find some sort of graph that would show me how many LED's I need in order to obtain the same amount of light that the florescent lights did.
I did order 'warm-white' LED's, thinking I may go with bright white to use in the bathroom as well as the ceiling lights (5 total).
I'll see once I get this all wired up if I want to hold off until bright whites arrive. There are 4 florescent fixtures under my upper cabinets in the Airstream. One at dinette, one at sofa, one at 2 barrel chairs and one at the kitchen area.
1st on list is to get Univolt replaced this week as well. Think neighbor has someone visiting that may be a former electrician. May pick his brain tomorrow.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-12-2012, 11:02 AM   #32
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I may need to replace my charger/inverter. Please post how you manage replacing yours. which power max is that? Steve G
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:44 PM   #33
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Steve G, Powermax 45amp unit. Found it on Amazon, had looked at bestconverters.com, but was able to save $ by purchasing through Amazon. At this point, 4 months into ownership of the Airstream, saving $ anywhere I turn is a GOOD THING, lol.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:33 AM   #34
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Is 45 amps enough? I have 2 group 27 Lifeline 105 and I want to treat them right so they last. I too have only had my 350 LE since May 2011 so this is all new to me.
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Old 01-13-2012, 04:19 PM   #35
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'89 battery cables from underneath

This is what my battery cables look like from underneath. They hang so far down towards road surface, I'm really thinking I could 'snag' something as I'm driving. Does anyone else have anything looking like this? If not, what do the cables look like on your Classic Motorhome. FYI, these are the cables from my battery tray on the curbside of the coach.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 01-13-2012, 05:46 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw
This is what my battery cables look like from underneath. They hang so far down towards road surface, I'm really thinking I could 'snag' something as I'm driving. Does anyone else have anything looking like this? If not, what do the cables look like on your Classic Motorhome. FYI, these are the cables from my battery tray on the curbside of the coach.
Thanks, Derek
Derek, change your fuel filter!
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:02 PM   #37
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Dean, gonna get measurements in the morning and go buy one. Thanks!
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Old 01-13-2012, 06:05 PM   #38
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LED's anyone? Kinda $$$$ tho....

Here's some really NICE looking LED's. Jeez, they must be coated in gold for the prices! The one I truly like is the Vanity Replacement bulb. Didn't I 'nominate' Keyair as our personal shopper for this stuff???

Interior/ Porch LED lighting - Star Lights, Inc.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:16 PM   #39
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Tampa RV Super Show

Ok, so Dean gave me the RV show with his pix from his local show out in CA. The Airstream TT are NICE. Makes me actually begin to think about the aluminum skin inside, but then I'd have to ditch my solid oak cabinetry. Maybe one day when I tire of it all. We'll see. If anything, a granite or marble countertop and dinette top could very well be in my future. As well, made sure to get the manufacturer name and address for the shower stalls in the new Airstreams. Mine sure has a 'soft' bottom to it! Guess I'll tear out carpet and check flooring first though.
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Old 01-13-2012, 08:23 PM   #40
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Tampa RV Super Show

As well, I looked and looked for that one Airstream with the 'porthole' in the bathroom door. Neat setup! Bath has no window, so this is a way to let some light in from the trailer itself. Really am liking the Airstream TT's with the skylights. Now that is a nice setup!
As well, I keep looking at the pix for the roof A/C inside shroud. Doesn't seem as 'deep' as the ones in my Classic. Like the removable filters too! Wondering if these will fit on my 23 yr old units???
And since Dean (dadstoy) made sure to point out the padding above the entry door, had to get a couple of pix so I can figure out one for my own....
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