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Old 08-12-2012, 08:59 PM   #253
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Thank you!

Thanks to Steve, Dean and Peter for their prompt responses. Will definitely get out to isolator and check the voltage. I've checked the starter battery with engine running, and was only getting just over 12V at that point.
Today, I was just happy to get the Airstream parked in my driveway that I was too hyped to start checking things. Well, that and I had fellow Airstreamers come and visit.
I'll be sure to post the results tomorrow, way past sunset now....
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-12-2012, 09:15 PM   #254
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Derek, these problems are not rocket science but, until you get to do it a few times, it can be intimidating.

You might want to phone or visit your local HD Truck shop. Ask the parts guy who rebuilds alternators locally. If you get that info, call them and it may be best to take your motorhome to their shop for testing. If its the alternator, I agree that now is the time to upgrade. But it may just be a bad connection and they will be able to spot it quickly with their knowledge and tools.

If its a straight swap of alternators, and you have a good guy at the shop, you can probably still do the switch yourself to cut down costs. (A good alternator rebuilder is alway busy with his own stuff.) If not just take the unit home and return the old alternator later for the core charge.

If you just try to swap alternators and you still have a wire problem, it can get expensive.

There are many types of alternators, self exciting, etc, and someone before you may have made changes from the OEM equipment.

Stay with the guy while he does the job and pay attention to what he is doing.

Make yourself a diagram of the wiring as it is now and any changes that are made. You can use multicolor electrical tape to id wire runs so that you don't have to get dirty looking next time.

If you feel you can test it yourself, and it all seems to be factory wiring, that is good. If you can do it yourself, that usually pays for any tools you buy to help with the job. Then soon you will have to build a shop to store all those tools.

This shop seems to have a good reputation.
Will's Starter & Alternator
4695 49th Street North St. Petersburg, FL 33709 United States‎

http://goo.gl/maps/nMQsj

The sign does not specifically say they rebuild here, so it may not be the right place for you, but check it out.

Dave
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:13 PM   #255
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Masseyfarm, this is the exact place that was recommended to me. Finally cooling off here so I can get outside in the moho and see what kind of voltage the alternator has. Going to also check online to see if I can purchase something that is at least 200amp.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-13-2012, 06:35 PM   #256
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Read up here...
Big 3 Upgrade

Here..
Looks like the CS-144 is a bolt on conversion...
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmcs144.html
Or maybe the Ad-244.
AD-244 High Amp Alternator,Nations Auto Electric,USA 1-888-334-2632

Or you could get really creative...
Dual alternator kits...
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/d...nator_kit.html
Or triple or quads...!
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmtriplet.html
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Old 08-22-2012, 11:16 AM   #257
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eBay Treasures

Along with a few other items, I purchased these LED driving lights (sitting on top of existing units) on eBay a few weeks ago. Arrived today, maybe, just maybe if the monsoons don't hit Central Florida, I'll be able to pull the non-working driving lights and install these.
I hope to hook them up to a 12V source to see how the compare to what's there (one is working....)
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:12 PM   #258
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Help?

Ok,
I'm trying to get all the pieces and parts together before replacing alternator. I'm told that if I'm going to use a higher amp rated alternator, I need extras.
Believe one was an 'Isolater' located on firewall??? Is the 2nd photo my isolator?
1st photo was to left of 'isolater', and looks to be nothing more than a piece of molded steel that has a bunch of wires connecting to it. Looks like I need to fasteners as well, these sure are rusted now that I'm looking closely.
So, what's the blue thingy with the fins? Is that what I need to replace by going to higher amp alternator?
Believe I'm going to splurge and buy all new 4 gauge wiring from alternator to battery and anything else that comes off the alternator. Anyone have any idea how many feet I'll need, as well as how many connectors?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #259
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Yes, Derek, the right photo is your isolator, the left looks like two fuse blocks, probably 20 or 30 amps.
It seems that the lower fuse block gets power from the fat red wire and then passes on the power to the upper fuse via the green wire. These fuses auto reset, unless they are burned out of course
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Old 08-23-2012, 08:44 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw
Ok,
I'm trying to get all the pieces and parts together before replacing alternator. I'm told that if I'm going to use a higher amp rated alternator, I need extras.
Believe one was an 'Isolater' located on firewall??? Is the 2nd photo my isolator?
1st photo was to left of 'isolater', and looks to be nothing more than a piece of molded steel that has a bunch of wires connecting to it. Looks like I need to fasteners as well, these sure are rusted now that I'm looking closely.
So, what's the blue thingy with the fins? Is that what I need to replace by going to higher amp alternator?
Believe I'm going to splurge and buy all new 4 gauge wiring from alternator to battery and anything else that comes off the alternator. Anyone have any idea how many feet I'll need, as well as how many connectors?
Thanks, Derek
Derek, did you get my PM...and more important did you read it LOl...just teasing!

Yes, with a high amp alternator you need a high amp charge wire and fuse and a high amp isolator. Your second pic is the isolator that you will probably need to replace with a new high amp unit...see my PM for details. PM me of you need any more details on what I did...however I'm leaving tomorrow for nor cal to pick up the MH then off to the deserts of Nevada for Burning Man!
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Old 08-23-2012, 09:05 PM   #261
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Derek, here is my high amp alternator with the special pulley that I mentioned, the heavy charge wire with fuse and the high amp isolator. The high amp isolator is much longer then the "stock" one any may present a mounting problem. I had to move my wiper washer tank to the passenger side of the firewall to accommodate the new isolator. Don't let anyone talk you into swapping the isolator for a separator. With an isolator you can simply replace your existing without rewiring and I'm sure you want to eventually get that big boy on the road, right! Also always use dialectic grease on all electrical connections...this is a must. This is available at any auto parts store. Yup, those are
automatic resettable fuses. They are probably ok. But if you do change them, try to find good quality ones and use the same amperage as what is there. The problem with these crappy fuses today is that if you slightly over tighten the nuts they simply break apart! You DON'T need to replace the connectors...don't let the rust concern you. What I do is put a small wire wheel in my small electric drill and wire brush the rust off. The connectors will be as good as new! You will probably do more harm then good if you try to replace them. Only replace if the wire at the connector is bad. Again put dialectic grease on the connectors before reassembly. Of course, as you know, be very careful to hook the wires back up the same way...tagging them is a good idea before you remove them.
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:48 PM   #262
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upper cabinets & A/C recharge???

Bkahler mentioned in GypsyChris' thread about actual weight of upper cabinets, but what GOES into the upper cabinet.....

Guessing Previous-Previous owner (college student at UVA) must've used this cabinet for book storage, therefore the damage at upper joints, and HORRIBLE attempt at repair. Project for tomorrow is to pull cabinet and do a Mike Holmes (Make It Right)

Also, anyone know what type of refridgerant is used in the roof A/C's? As much as I'd love to replace existing ones, budget won't allow that for at least another year. Just out in moho, A/C running since lunch, and it's barely cool in there. Didn't check output at vents, but it's definitely not as cool as it was a year ago. Guess I start a separate Airstream account, huh?
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:06 PM   #263
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Could you use a bottle jack on the floor and use a 2x4 to raise that and hold it till the glue dries? The fridge uses ammonia as a refrigerant.
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:20 PM   #264
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A/C refrigerant-Freon

Guess I should've clarified my previous post. Was asking what type of freon that roof A/C units use.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-30-2012, 10:37 PM   #265
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I miss read your post. You were clear. My bad. I don't know what the roof airs use but I do believe they do not have service ports so it may be moot. I imagine you could solder in ports to fill them but if they are low on refrigerant they have other problems as well. Most likely the condenser or the evaporator has a leak. It seems these things are meant to be disposable. sad. Steve
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Old 08-31-2012, 12:53 AM   #266
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Did you replace the start capacitor(s) on your a/c units? That's going to be my one attempt at repair, if it doesn't work we either get somebody who knows what they are doing, or new a/c units.
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