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Old 08-23-2012, 08:05 PM   #261
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Derek, here is my high amp alternator with the special pulley that I mentioned, the heavy charge wire with fuse and the high amp isolator. The high amp isolator is much longer then the "stock" one any may present a mounting problem. I had to move my wiper washer tank to the passenger side of the firewall to accommodate the new isolator. Don't let anyone talk you into swapping the isolator for a separator. With an isolator you can simply replace your existing without rewiring and I'm sure you want to eventually get that big boy on the road, right! Also always use dialectic grease on all electrical connections...this is a must. This is available at any auto parts store. Yup, those are
automatic resettable fuses. They are probably ok. But if you do change them, try to find good quality ones and use the same amperage as what is there. The problem with these crappy fuses today is that if you slightly over tighten the nuts they simply break apart! You DON'T need to replace the connectors...don't let the rust concern you. What I do is put a small wire wheel in my small electric drill and wire brush the rust off. The connectors will be as good as new! You will probably do more harm then good if you try to replace them. Only replace if the wire at the connector is bad. Again put dialectic grease on the connectors before reassembly. Of course, as you know, be very careful to hook the wires back up the same way...tagging them is a good idea before you remove them.
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Old 08-30-2012, 07:48 PM   #262
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upper cabinets & A/C recharge???

Bkahler mentioned in GypsyChris' thread about actual weight of upper cabinets, but what GOES into the upper cabinet.....

Guessing Previous-Previous owner (college student at UVA) must've used this cabinet for book storage, therefore the damage at upper joints, and HORRIBLE attempt at repair. Project for tomorrow is to pull cabinet and do a Mike Holmes (Make It Right)

Also, anyone know what type of refridgerant is used in the roof A/C's? As much as I'd love to replace existing ones, budget won't allow that for at least another year. Just out in moho, A/C running since lunch, and it's barely cool in there. Didn't check output at vents, but it's definitely not as cool as it was a year ago. Guess I start a separate Airstream account, huh?
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Old 08-30-2012, 08:06 PM   #263
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Could you use a bottle jack on the floor and use a 2x4 to raise that and hold it till the glue dries? The fridge uses ammonia as a refrigerant.
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:20 PM   #264
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A/C refrigerant-Freon

Guess I should've clarified my previous post. Was asking what type of freon that roof A/C units use.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-30-2012, 09:37 PM   #265
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I miss read your post. You were clear. My bad. I don't know what the roof airs use but I do believe they do not have service ports so it may be moot. I imagine you could solder in ports to fill them but if they are low on refrigerant they have other problems as well. Most likely the condenser or the evaporator has a leak. It seems these things are meant to be disposable. sad. Steve
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Old 08-30-2012, 11:53 PM   #266
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Did you replace the start capacitor(s) on your a/c units? That's going to be my one attempt at repair, if it doesn't work we either get somebody who knows what they are doing, or new a/c units.
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Old 09-01-2012, 08:37 PM   #267
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Waipo,
Got both units opened up on A/C's. There are THREEE capacitors up there. Since not really knowing that what I had would work, and which one was start capacitor, I've just decided that something that is 24 years old, it's time to replace, not keep throwing money at it. I keep watching eBay and Craigslist to see if a good Dometic 15,000BTU shows up at a great price....
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Old 09-01-2012, 09:40 PM   #268
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I can't help ya much here right now. I have new start capacitors from PPL sitting at my daughter's house where the 310 is, but won't get there until October to see if they make a difference. If not, I have seen some big late model Airstream trailers with only one ac unit on the roof. If they only need one, why do we need two?
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Old 09-02-2012, 01:18 AM   #269
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From Air Rowan a couple of months ago:

" added this to the start capacitor on my rear ac that had not been working for about a year (fan would come on but not compressor) and it fixed it. So if your aft air is not working it is a cheap ($8.00) fix and only takes about 20m to finish. Most of the time I spent cleaning out the wasp nests and mouse pantry (corn piled up on top of capacitors I think it was mice). The start capacitor is the small one that has the yellow wire. Remember to bring a good pair of needle nose pliers with insulated handles when connecting the capacitors. Keep one had behind you as the are many mu farad and will send you off the roof (obviously do not have the power on when doing this).
The wires coming from the compressor will lead you to the compartment (front left on mach 3 coleman)"

I think that makes it the small capacitor on the right in this photo:
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Old 09-02-2012, 11:16 AM   #270
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Pull shorepower plug, disconnect inverter, and with possible cross connected dc wouldn't be a bad idea to disconnect it, use an insulated screw driver short out across capicitator connects and ground to case before you even try touching wires.
Get rid of those red household twist on connectors and add a crimp connector.


only 13500 but right price.
http://ocala.craigslist.org/rvs/3243328594.html
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:01 PM   #271
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Thanks to Brad Kahler

Ok,

When purchased, the motorhome had several 'improvements' done. One was a complete paint job of the shower stall. Walls appear to be painted with a floor broom, tub part was sprayed with what appears to be black garage floor paint, specks included.
With the great help of bkahler on the forum, who is parting out a 345, I am the proud purchaser of the completely original tub part for the shower stall. Will have to wait on transportation. My folks are in Michigan, and will be heading to Florida for the holidays, so hopefully will have enough room in the F-150 long bed for a shower tub, lol.
Now all I have to do is figure out a shower door......

Thanks to Brad!
Derek
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Old 09-03-2012, 08:38 PM   #272
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Derek,
we opted for a spring-loaded shower curtain, as our accordian door kept falling apart or splitting...just extend it to your length needed, and suspend it inside the shower stall...may have to trim the curtain a bit, bite your tongue when the other half picks the design, but the logistics work, are easily replaced, and cheap...if you have a home-without-wheels, you know a shower curtain is a no-brainer...has worked for us for 3 years, although I'm still on the look-out for a flamingo motif...
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:08 PM   #273
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I vote for shower curtain

We have a shower curtain as well......works fine......and it can be cleaned easily.....paula
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:08 PM   #274
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spring loaded shower curtain?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ScrapIrony-2 View Post
Derek,
we opted for a spring-loaded shower curtain, as our accordian door kept falling apart or splitting...just extend it to your length needed, and suspend it inside the shower stall...may have to trim the curtain a bit, bite your tongue when the other half picks the design, but the logistics work, are easily replaced, and cheap...if you have a home-without-wheels, you know a shower curtain is a no-brainer...has worked for us for 3 years, although I'm still on the look-out for a flamingo motif...

What is a spring-loaded shower curtain? p
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:15 PM   #275
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Shower Curtain

Yes, I have the shower curtain and the spring loaded shower curtain rod, but eventually, would really like the frosted glass shower door, I can hope, right?
Paula, go to Big Box Home Improvement stores, they have the spring loaded shower curtain rods.
Scrap, if you EVER find the pink flamingo shower curtain, be sure to let me know where you found it!
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-03-2012, 09:21 PM   #276
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Pink Flamingo Shower curtain

cafepress.com, little 'pricey' though....
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Old 09-03-2012, 11:30 PM   #277
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Spring-loaded...a rod that you manually unscrew until it extends about 1 inch beyond the width of your shower width...you then compress it manually until it holds itself...voila...there you are...well, yeah, ya gotta put the curtain on the rod first, but they are removable for a washing machine(throw in a couple of not really showplace towels, and let them just beat each into cleaner...
Sidetrack...the same shower curtain rods can be used to mount just behind the driver/passenger seats to efficiently cool the cab space and keep the back area at bay until you stop for the night and need additional cooling...looks a bit cheesy, but at 50-60 mph, no one is looking at the inside decor...they're probably just envying the AS...works well, comes down in a jif, and beats running the gen for back ac you don't need till you land...it also conserves cool/heat for the back when you park it...mike
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:11 AM   #278
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Derek,
I don't know whether to thank you for the shower curtain site, or curse you for having more options than I can afford...well, ok, the problem is mine, so I thank you...LORDY!!! now how do I explain to the interior designer that I have a shower curtain for each day of 2 weeks??? She has allowed me 15 Hawaiian shirts for travel(I smuggle in another 5 or so), and I have another 40 or so at home, but I manage to pick up a few more at the Tucson thrift stores each year...I actually have 'work' designated shirts...too fond of any of them to let them go...they are my uniform...too bad the closet is so limited...now I have about a dozen shower curtains to consider,,,??? Gotta help me out with this one, bud, as $500 on an alternator is so much easier than $500 on shower curtains...hell, I put a gallon jug out in the sun in the morning,in AZ, and that's my 'Navy' shower...but I have this weakness for flamingos...well, and the shirts...m
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:37 PM   #279
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Has anyone ever figured out about how many feet of battery cable is required from alternator to battery tray on passenger side? Like I used to tell my ex-wife....."If it's not one thing, it's your mother".......
Thanks, Derek
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:58 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw
Has anyone ever figured out about how many feet of battery cable is required from alternator to battery tray on passenger side? Like I used to tell my ex-wife....."If it's not one thing, it's your mother".......
Thanks, Derek
Derek, you should be going from alternator to isolator and not to the battery. Isolator should be mounted on firewall so it is close to alternator.
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