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Old 08-09-2012, 07:10 AM   #241
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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derek
Is your frig orig as is mine? I had problems with the main board controlling the frig 7 years ago. Mine would not run on gas only. A problem making me run the gen to keep cold on the run. OEM boards are pricey making you wonder if you should replace the whole unit. I found a place in OR called Gator boards.If you want the number or cannot find them on the web, I'll find the receipt to get you the number. I think if the frig gets cold and stays cold, a fix will work. If the battery still goes dead when plugged in to shore current, I think you are still dealling with the power problems.
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:26 AM   #242
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It’s not likely that the refrigerator control board could be drawing enough currant to drain a good, charged battery. If it was there would be a lot of heat coming of the board as those circuits draw very little power. If the fridge is a 3 way and can run on gas, 120v, and 12 volt, that could draw down your house battery. I suspect it might be something else on board drawing down the house battery or the battery is starting to fail. Steve
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Old 08-09-2012, 01:59 PM   #243
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Dometic RM2652

Ok,
This I know for certain. This fridge is a replacement by PO. When he purchased rig 3 years ago, original fridge was removed and a 120V college size was installed.
Anyhow, when I turn on the fridge, using only the 'Power' button, it almost seems as if fridge is constantly trying to see if it can go to gas operation. This all while moho is hooked up to electrical. Next day, I've got hardly any coach battery left, even with the LED replacements I've done.
Has anyone replaced the circuit boards in these things? Could it be something simple like the board behind the power switch?
Thanks for any and all help and suggestions, Derek
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Old 08-09-2012, 02:02 PM   #244
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oh, fridge is only 120V and gas operation only. Maybe one day I'll get a 3-way fridge.....maybe something like this, since there's about 4 to 5" off to the right of the fridge next to the dinette......a little bit of carpentry.....
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Old 08-09-2012, 05:13 PM   #245
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If your refer has a light inside, I wonder if it goes out when you close the door?
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Old 08-09-2012, 07:38 PM   #246
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Was out in the moho this evening. Had fridge turned off completely. Had both freezer and fridge doors open when I powered it up. Fridge light came on when I powered up the fridge. Went off when I turned off fridge, so guess that's not my problem.
I've been inside with the old florescent lights going, and it seemed like they dimmed, then went bright for about the same amount of time as being dim.
This makes me believe circuit board is 'hunting' for LP gas, instead of using the 120V which is already there.
Guess I'm just gonna pull the board and see if I can find a replacement.
One question, the control panel on top of the fridge has some sort of circuit board, is there another circuit board somewhere else (back of fridge)??
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-09-2012, 08:21 PM   #247
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Here is a link to the troubleshoot manual. http://gasrefrigeration.net/dom_tech...121_2852SM.PDF looks like the power module in the bottom half has fuses you could check. If the fridge does not Sense a/c current IT goes to gas and tries to light every 45seconds. I guess that could drain a battery.
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Old 08-12-2012, 05:43 PM   #248
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Uh-Oh.....

Ok,
So I finally decided that I had to get Airstream out on the road, just to feel like I don't have a Aluminum yard ornament.

So, here I am driving along, went to use turn signal to make a turn, and no signal. Looked at Voltmeter, and it's buried below 10 volts! Guess I'm gonna have to replace the Alternator.

Have long ago decided from others experiences that AutoZone and Advance are NOT the place to be buying parts for the Airstream.

Was about to head to NAPA and a mechanic friend strongly suggested that I pull alternator and take to a local rebuild shop. He mentioned that even with NAPA I could end up with a POS. His experience has been with local rebuild shop is that same guy who tears apart your alternator is the same guy who rebuilds it. All at or close to same price that the low-cost parts stores offer.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:02 PM   #249
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OK...
Firstly be aware that the gauge maybe wrong or malfuntioning... same goes for the wiring to it!.
Break out your Multimeter..
Test the coach battery, if its less than 12.5v, recharge it.
After that, start and run the motor, and test the battery when its running... you should be getting 13.0v or more... If not, you need to go thru every connection from the Alternator to the battery including the grounding....

Start there and report back...
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:47 PM   #250
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Derek,
The easiest way to get started with the voltage check is at the Battery isolator in the front engine compartment.
With engine off, the center post (alternator connection) should read ~zero volt and the other 2 posts should read coach and engine battery voltage.
Then with the engine running you should get alternator voltage on the center post and appr the same voltage on both battery posts. Any variances indicate problems with some of the components.
Good luck!
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Old 08-12-2012, 06:59 PM   #251
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Hey Derek, sounds strange that your battery would have discharged so much in your drive today due to a non working alternator that the turn signals wouldn't work. Do all the appropriate testing before replacing the alternator. Also test your battery isolator to see if it is working...see the link below. The Chevy Motorhome chassis service manual has a great section on testing outputs. Look to see if the sense wire connector is still connected to the alternator. Mine is very loose even on my new alternator. I zip tied the wire to the alternator bracket so the connector wouldn't come off.

If you find that you do need to replace the alternator, consider going with a high amp alternator. I replaced mine last year with a 200 amp alternator and a 220 amp battery isolator. I have multiple receipts from my dad where he replaced the alternator. I've driven cars for 10 years and I never had to change the alternator so I wondered why the MH was going through them. After doing some research and hearing that this was a common problem on MH's, I found out what one of the common reasons was for this. The stock alternators may only put out between 65 and 105 amps. If the amp draw on the alternator is greater then this, the alternator will soon burn out. Today it's easy to put a large amp load on the alternator by charging engine and coach batteries and running all the electronics that we do today.

I agree, don't buy from the Autozones and I'm not that fond of Napa either. I went around to some auto electic shops around here to see if they could rebuild mine as a higher amp alternator...they stared at me like I was a Martian asking them to rewire my space ship! I found a company in Florida that builds high output alternators and I bought one from him...I went elsewhere for the new isolator since I could get it for less. Only issue is the high amp alternators are that they are very pricey but you certainly won't be burning them out. I've put 3000 miles on the new one in the last 1.5 yrs and all is working great.

http://www.ase-supply.com/v/vspfiles...dables/sp1.pdf
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:06 PM   #252
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Look at section 7 of the chevy MH manual...
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Old 08-12-2012, 07:59 PM   #253
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Thank you!

Thanks to Steve, Dean and Peter for their prompt responses. Will definitely get out to isolator and check the voltage. I've checked the starter battery with engine running, and was only getting just over 12V at that point.
Today, I was just happy to get the Airstream parked in my driveway that I was too hyped to start checking things. Well, that and I had fellow Airstreamers come and visit.
I'll be sure to post the results tomorrow, way past sunset now....
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-12-2012, 08:15 PM   #254
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Derek, these problems are not rocket science but, until you get to do it a few times, it can be intimidating.

You might want to phone or visit your local HD Truck shop. Ask the parts guy who rebuilds alternators locally. If you get that info, call them and it may be best to take your motorhome to their shop for testing. If its the alternator, I agree that now is the time to upgrade. But it may just be a bad connection and they will be able to spot it quickly with their knowledge and tools.

If its a straight swap of alternators, and you have a good guy at the shop, you can probably still do the switch yourself to cut down costs. (A good alternator rebuilder is alway busy with his own stuff.) If not just take the unit home and return the old alternator later for the core charge.

If you just try to swap alternators and you still have a wire problem, it can get expensive.

There are many types of alternators, self exciting, etc, and someone before you may have made changes from the OEM equipment.

Stay with the guy while he does the job and pay attention to what he is doing.

Make yourself a diagram of the wiring as it is now and any changes that are made. You can use multicolor electrical tape to id wire runs so that you don't have to get dirty looking next time.

If you feel you can test it yourself, and it all seems to be factory wiring, that is good. If you can do it yourself, that usually pays for any tools you buy to help with the job. Then soon you will have to build a shop to store all those tools.

This shop seems to have a good reputation.
Will's Starter & Alternator
4695 49th Street North St. Petersburg, FL 33709 United States‎

http://goo.gl/maps/nMQsj

The sign does not specifically say they rebuild here, so it may not be the right place for you, but check it out.

Dave
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Old 08-13-2012, 05:13 PM   #255
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Masseyfarm, this is the exact place that was recommended to me. Finally cooling off here so I can get outside in the moho and see what kind of voltage the alternator has. Going to also check online to see if I can purchase something that is at least 200amp.
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-13-2012, 05:35 PM   #256
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Read up here...
Big 3 Upgrade

Here..
Looks like the CS-144 is a bolt on conversion...
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmcs144.html
Or maybe the Ad-244.
AD-244 High Amp Alternator,Nations Auto Electric,USA 1-888-334-2632

Or you could get really creative...
Dual alternator kits...
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/d...nator_kit.html
Or triple or quads...!
http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/gmtriplet.html
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Old 08-22-2012, 10:16 AM   #257
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eBay Treasures

Along with a few other items, I purchased these LED driving lights (sitting on top of existing units) on eBay a few weeks ago. Arrived today, maybe, just maybe if the monsoons don't hit Central Florida, I'll be able to pull the non-working driving lights and install these.
I hope to hook them up to a 12V source to see how the compare to what's there (one is working....)
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:12 PM   #258
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Help?

Ok,
I'm trying to get all the pieces and parts together before replacing alternator. I'm told that if I'm going to use a higher amp rated alternator, I need extras.
Believe one was an 'Isolater' located on firewall??? Is the 2nd photo my isolator?
1st photo was to left of 'isolater', and looks to be nothing more than a piece of molded steel that has a bunch of wires connecting to it. Looks like I need to fasteners as well, these sure are rusted now that I'm looking closely.
So, what's the blue thingy with the fins? Is that what I need to replace by going to higher amp alternator?
Believe I'm going to splurge and buy all new 4 gauge wiring from alternator to battery and anything else that comes off the alternator. Anyone have any idea how many feet I'll need, as well as how many connectors?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:43 PM   #259
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Yes, Derek, the right photo is your isolator, the left looks like two fuse blocks, probably 20 or 30 amps.
It seems that the lower fuse block gets power from the fat red wire and then passes on the power to the upper fuse via the green wire. These fuses auto reset, unless they are burned out of course
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Old 08-23-2012, 07:44 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw
Ok,
I'm trying to get all the pieces and parts together before replacing alternator. I'm told that if I'm going to use a higher amp rated alternator, I need extras.
Believe one was an 'Isolater' located on firewall??? Is the 2nd photo my isolator?
1st photo was to left of 'isolater', and looks to be nothing more than a piece of molded steel that has a bunch of wires connecting to it. Looks like I need to fasteners as well, these sure are rusted now that I'm looking closely.
So, what's the blue thingy with the fins? Is that what I need to replace by going to higher amp alternator?
Believe I'm going to splurge and buy all new 4 gauge wiring from alternator to battery and anything else that comes off the alternator. Anyone have any idea how many feet I'll need, as well as how many connectors?
Thanks, Derek
Derek, did you get my PM...and more important did you read it LOl...just teasing!

Yes, with a high amp alternator you need a high amp charge wire and fuse and a high amp isolator. Your second pic is the isolator that you will probably need to replace with a new high amp unit...see my PM for details. PM me of you need any more details on what I did...however I'm leaving tomorrow for nor cal to pick up the MH then off to the deserts of Nevada for Burning Man!
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