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Old 07-19-2011, 11:58 PM   #15
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1936 20' Clipper
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1989 37' Airstream 370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmarsha View Post
my bro was cleaning out his barn-sold his hvac business a few years back-lo and behold, he found some 30lb canisters of R12. if anyone needs freon let me know. ol' bill
I'd be interested in one as well. Price? Shipping? Let me know.

Thanks,

Charly.
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:37 PM   #16
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1982 24' Airstream 240
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I love this forum! So much great info.

EasySteamer88-So how did your conversion work out? Blasting cold air no problems? I've got a 24ft 1982 that I need to get the cab AC working better...working for that matter. My hopes are to get the system capable of keeping the whole unit cool enough for passengers in the back to be comfortable in the summer while driving. That may sound ambitious, but with the back bath blocking off about 5 feet there ends up being only about 20ft to really cool. Oh, and how much does the conversion cost so I can put it into my budget?
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:44 PM   #17
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1982 24' Airstream 240
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Sorry, I meant EasyStreamer88...
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:41 PM   #18
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I was always taught that you add Freon or whatever you are using till the bubbling in the sight glass on top of the dryer just stops. This has always worked for me.

Perry
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Old 06-02-2012, 11:20 AM   #19
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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You might check with Andy at Inland RV...
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Old 06-04-2012, 10:13 AM   #20
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
Waxahachie , Texas
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Probably no help

Hey guy,
I'm probably not going to be much help to you, but I can share what worked for me. Like you I have searched and searched to find out the exact amount of freon to put in. I have chosen to keep my system in R12 because it is original and I prefer it. Nevertheless I have a buddy that works in the air conditioning business. He supplies the distributors which in turn supply the parts stores. Without a curtain, the dash air system as you know on our MH's is really under powered. Here is what he suggested for me. We removed the condenser and replaced it with a new high flow latest and greatest. (I know nothing of HVAC) We replace the dryer with one that was sure to have a sight glass. Replaced the hoses, and checked the blower assembly. The fan shroud around the blower assembly need to be replaced as well. Parts are available from DTAC in Midlothian Texas. We flushed the system and then recharged with R12. Now he said it is really important to pull a good half a day vacuum on it prior to charging. How much R12 did it take? Who knows. We put it in until the bubbles disappeared in the sight glass, then added liquid for about 5 seconds. It works great. Temperature at the vent is about 46 degrees.
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Old 06-04-2012, 02:34 PM   #21
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
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Once again, I will offer a tacky but quite effective solution for on-the-road cab cooling...buy a spring-loaded curtain rod, shower curtains of your choice(I chose clear), and hang the thing just behind the front seats...don't need to cool the whole rig, just where you are maintaing space...it works just fine, and since I am apparently in to tacky, well...I don't care...
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:26 AM   #22
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1988 32.5' Airstream 325
La Follette , Tennessee
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Great thread. I have a 96 GMC Suburban that has a rear a/c system in it. I'd like to get the system from a donor at the junkyard and install in in my 235. Has anyone tried that yet? I put a 134 conversion kit from Classic Auto Air in my brothers Studebaker Avanti, and except for the mounting of the new compressor and rigging pulleys it was mostly painless. I plan to enlist there help with the hoses and fitting. Regards, Kevin
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