1987 345 w\454

[Kreimer]

It is pretty cool. We drive in and down a ramp in the side of a hill. I think they believe it was initially started as part of a railroad tunnel. The web site is www.downtownunderground.com I think. Check the history portion. It is pretty neat. this is where the trailer is stored. We had the grass and awning out just for the picture. This is pre-polish...

I found a ton of paperwork in the 345. Apparently it got a new henschen tag axle in 2001 with some techy air suspension on it that connects to the other axle. The transmission was either replaced or rebuilt in 2008. New front furnace in 2008. At some point there was damage to both front wheel/hub assemblies axles and they were replaced with new parts.

Pulled the awning out when we got it to the cave. It is a bit crispy... Probably needs replaced. Along with a couple Windows... Trying to find a less expensive alternative than the $400+ that I saw on I think it was vts. Need the street side bedroom slider and the driver window slider. The bedroom window is shattered and the driver slider is lexan. Both are currently secured with lovely white vinyl tape.

We are planning to take the coach to western Kansas the day after Christmas. My dad is gonna help me find the fuel leak and repair it. I can probably persuade him to help get the steering repaired as well!

I figure I can check the tanks with a garden hose while we are out there. Easier to open the tanks on the farm than in the city. The tend to frown on the black tank openly draining on the street.....

[tevake]

A note of caution Kreimer, a number of nice classic coaches have been lost to fires. I was relieved that you made it home without incident.
There is little magic in the fuel system, its pretty straight forward and accessible for inspection. With a lot of possible leak points that could be easily fixed once found.
I'm digging that cave! Ha I crack myself up.

Cheers Richard

[Kreimer]

Made it back across Kansas! Only one hiccup. Stopped in Hays at Walmart. Engine wouldn't start. Had to hold flap in carb open to get it started. Next two days hopefully will be productive! Wanting to get fuel leak fixed, steering repaired, and perhaps the leak in the exhaust repaired. Still not using any oil at all! Surprised the hell out of me! Does anyone else find the pilot's seat uncomfortable? We also discovered the old road star flying saucer antennae on the roof still works!

[Keyair]

Thats good news that the oil is staying in! Burning and leaking is not uncommon!

If it still has a Quadrajet, it might need some fettling. Might be a poorly adjusted choke, or heat soak causing vapor lock. That is a common problem after a stop, that will only get worse when the summer comes. The rear electic pump is supposed to help. GM has a whole discussion about it, and cures in the chassis manual. I think there is a link in the Classic MH sticky at the top of the thread index page.

Also, if you have the Banks kit, make sure you have a starter heat shield in place, as the headers will fry the starter alive! Not a bad idea to add one even if it has he original cast headers.

I too found the drivers seat too soft and squishy to offer any real support, and only just bearable for a few hours. I acquired some Range Rover seats that I plan to install when I get to it!

All in all, sound like a nice find!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Keyair

I think there is a link in the Classic MH sticky at the top of the thread index page.

Steve, last time I checked a few weeks ago I think the links to the chassis manual were not working.

[Keyair]

I just checked and you are correct Brad.
I will find it and repost.
I have it is PDF, if you want to post it on your site?

[bkahler]

Here's the link to my site

P30 Chassis Manual

Brad

[Kreimer]

Dad had a look at the fuel issue. The fuel is coming out the weep hole. Ordered a replacement to be here tomorrow. Gonna jack that side up and take off the tire to try and get to it easier. Looking forward to no more gas smell! Anyone know the energy requirements for the heat strip in the air conditioners? Do I need to be plugged into 30 amp? Currently just plugged into I think a 15amp outlet. Little chili with just the front furnace going! Got a box heater for the bedroom tonight!

[bkahler]

I used to run the air conditioner on 15 amp shore power all the time with no issues. The heat strip should work just as well on 15 amp shore power.

I used to use a small 1500 watt stand alone electric heater in the 310 as well without issue.

Brad

[Keyair]

Nice you found the fuel leak!
I assume you were talking about the mechanical fuel pump?
That might also explain your hot start issue, as it was failing to hold the pressure, and allowing the fuel to boil.

I did mine recently by jacking up the front of the MH, support it on jackstands, and worked over the top of the wheel/tire. You could reach it by turning the steering full lock right, and working there too.
Suggest you remove the inner fender/heatshied, and your view will be like this..



Used a Carter pump.


Biggest PITA, is the "Fuel Pump Pushrod". You have to get the pump arm below it... and its keeps falling down.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Biggest PITA, is the "Fuel Pump Pushrod". You have to get the pump arm below it... and its keeps falling down.

The easiest way to solve that problem is to put a little chassis grease on the rod when you put it in. It will stick then and the grease will dissolve in the engine oil later. Just don't get carried away with that idea.

[dadstoy]

I replaced my mechanical pump not too long. I did it from underneath without removing other parts or shields and it wasn't too bad.

As Steve mentioned the worst part is the pump push rod. Check it for wear. You can also kick over the starter until the rod will rest on the non lobe side of the cam.

The trick to keeping the rod in place during re-install is to dab some clean wheel bearing on the cam side end to make it stick in place. It won't stay in place for long so it might take a couple of times. Wheel bearing grease you say! Well just google it!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by dadstoy

I replaced my mechanical pump not too long. I did it from underneath without removing other parts or shields and it wasn't too bad.

I've also replaced the fuel pump on a 454 parked on a busy street in downtown Detroit. While it's somewhat of a pain it can be done without removing anything. I believe turning the wheels slightly helped some with access.

Brad

[dadstoy]

Steve, my new mechanical fuel pump came in GM blue!

[bkahler]

I always thought GM color was orange?!

I must be getting old....

[dadstoy]

Chevy is orange. GM is blue.


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[bkahler]

Wow, learned something new today!

Actually I like the Blue over the Orange

[Kreimer]

The one we got is a carquest pump. Silver. We got the fuel leak fixed with the new pump. It is great not to smell gas whenever I stop. We tightened up the steering with the adjustment but on the steering box. Took it down the road and back and it seems much better. We will see how it on up to speed on the highway... Also discovered something that would improve the handling.. the second pic is just a view of the greasy old thing!

I read that there is an inline fuse for the backup monster if you pull the wires up out of the dash. May try that later to see if I can get it working...

[Kreimer]

Headed back to KC. Fuel pump change is awesome! Steering is much improved. Got about eight miles from dad's house and smoke started coming out of the heat vents. Turned the temp to cold and turned off the fan. Smell and smoke stopped. Heat stopped with it. Sigh... Using a blanket and coat and a little 12v heater. Still cold. Stopped for supper in Hays now. 4 more hours...

[Waipio Rim]

On the fuel pump pushrod, found this on truck forums regarding 454's:

"Some blocks have a bolt in the front that you can take out, and install a longer bolt to hold the pushrod up, and always make sure to replace that bolt with the short one after, or things get ugly..."