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Old 05-05-2011, 05:41 PM   #15
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1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
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I would say that Most, many issues come from Lack of Basic, good, consistent maintenance.

Check all battery's and battery cables. Grounds.
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Old 05-05-2011, 06:54 PM   #16
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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I'd sooner buy a high mileage coach where most of the system has been replaced at least once. We bought ours with 28k original miles, I prolly spent 5k in the next few years replacing stuff that the p.o. had not serviced. Any coach (or boat, for that matter) does not like sitting around.
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Old 05-06-2011, 07:39 AM   #17
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1984 31' Airstream310
Boise , Idaho
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Pulled the trigger.

For the most part everything seems to be in good working order. This a low mileage coach but it has sat unused for 10 years. Before that it had a new motor, tranny, and tons of maintenance. New owner bought it from an estate to flip and claimed to have gone through most everything. Although I can't count on that.

I plan to have the brakes looked at first thing. Do you guys recommend going to an RV repair shop for brakes or more of a specialty shop that does brakes and suspension like a Les Schwab (northwest tire, brake, and suspension store?)

Fluids have been replaced and belts and hoses look good. Tires have full tread but a little checking up front from sitting. Plan to get a few trips out of them.

Because it has had such little use the last decade any suggestions as to specific areas to look over?
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Old 05-06-2011, 08:20 AM   #18
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1985 34.5' Airstream 345
BACK WOODS , Minnesota
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If the tires are more than six years old they will probably blow even if they look good.

I had my brakes rebuilt in a regular shop. It is a Chevy P30 or 32 chassis and all the parts are available. I also replaced most of the wheel bearings.

Check the hoses that run from the engine to the rear heater and water heater. I just replaced all of mine and just in time I think.
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Old 05-06-2011, 09:36 AM   #19
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Bullhead City , Arizona
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Congratulations on your Motor Home and I hope you many fun and exciting adventures.
Jo
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Old 05-06-2011, 10:03 AM   #20
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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I have bought and revitalized a few "Sleeping" Vehicles in my time..
The list is based on my personal experience...
If it has been sitting unstarted and unmoved for 10 years its a lot..
I will concentrate on the mechanicals, as others are more familiar with the "House" systems.

Change engine and transmission fluid and filters.... and after 500 miles change both again. On the Engine, use a Diesel oil with C4 designation, as it has more detergents, and will flush more gunk out.
Drain and Flush cooling system, run a hose thru block, and radiator. Check condition of all hoses.
Replace fuel filters, dont miss the Carb filter too.
Add fresh fuel, and run a moisture absorber(like ISOHEET) and a fuel conditioner thru for a couple of tanks.
Check all belts.
Bleed/flush Power steering fluid.
Check driveshaft UJ's and bearings.
Change rear axle oil.
Check/repack wheel bearings, and check pads/linings.
Replace any tires older than 6 years old.

Brakes are more tricky, and again it depends on the ambient temps and humidity where it was stored.
Bleed/flush brake fluid as a minimum. I would pull each wheel and have the seals examined. Rust is the enemy here, as it forms on the walls of the calipers, both from the outside and inside due to moisture absorbsion in the brake fluid.
This rust/pitting rips the seals up, and you have a brake failure looming.

The brakes are the most important thing here... You can buy calipers pretty cheaply, but maybe rebuilding them with a light hone would be better than buying a cheap rebuilt unit.
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Old 05-14-2011, 08:35 AM   #21
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Key West , Florida
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I Like what Keyair said to do I would just add 2 very good front tires to start with! you can buy the rest as soon as you can but I would not drive it to the gas station with out checking front ball joints and new front Tires!
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Old 05-14-2011, 10:18 AM   #22
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1983 31' Airstream310
Cactus Hug , Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
You can buy calipers pretty cheaply, but maybe rebuilding them with a light hone would be better than buying a cheap rebuilt unit.
If the pads are replaced, have the rotors turned. A "mechanic" gave me bad advice years ago, that "the rotors are fine, we'll just replace the pads". Coming down the hill from Cloudcroft, NM (one of the nastiest grades in the country) my wife asked me, "what's that smell?"
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Old 05-15-2011, 09:33 AM   #23
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I Like what Keyair said to do I would just add 2 very good front tires to start with! you can buy the rest as soon as you can but I would not drive it to the gas station with out checking front ball joints and new front Tires!
Thanks for all the advice guys. I got it to my house A-ok. I had to drive 100 miles on 10 year old tires.....made it without any issues. Surprisingly a couple of the tires only have minimal checking. Tuesday she goes in for two new front tires and a brake overhaul.

The air compressor was not working so I had to drive it with deflated rear air bags. How bad is that on the air bags? I got the compressor running and they seem to be holding air today.

I jumped in head first last night on the remodel. Tore out the couch and all the upholstered panels throughout the coach. Also started working through the wiring. What a mess! Going to need some help from a knowledgeable friend to get this straightened out. Above my skill level.
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Old 05-15-2011, 08:49 PM   #24
Full Timers/Diesel power.
 
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The air compressor was not working so I had to drive it with deflated rear air bags. How bad is that on the air bags? I got the compressor running and they seem to be holding air today.
The coach has a set of leaf springs (or should) to protect against air bag failure. Keep a eye on those air bags, I replaced mine shortly after we bought the coach because she'd sat deflated for so long. What was the problem with the compressor? We've been moored here for the past month without firing the coach; the bags are low, but not down to the bottom. 8-10" frame to rail is a good rule of thumb for the air bag height.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:03 PM   #25
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1984 31' Airstream310
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Blown fuse was the reason the compressor wasn't functioning.

So I just found some moisture and water directly behind the passenger seat in the cabin area and on the floor area. I can't seem to find the leak. I will take some pics. Any suggestions on where to check?

Any other areas prone to leaks? I plan to reseal everything on the outside but would like to replace or check any areas inside for past water damage.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:42 PM   #26
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Port Angeles , Washington
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Quote:
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Blown fuse was the reason the compressor wasn't functioning.

So I just found some moisture and water directly behind the passenger seat in the cabin area and on the floor area. I can't seem to find the leak. I will take some pics. Any suggestions on where to check?

Any other areas prone to leaks? I plan to reseal everything on the outside but would like to replace or check any areas inside for past water damage.
Check the caulking above the window frames. I just started doing mine and even though it looked alright big chunks popped off with very little effort.

I'm not sure of your fuse set up but a few of us have installed a relay using heavy wire from the batteries to the compressor which is in the back on our coaches. The factory set up was a long wire run with a heavy amp draw. Some coaches have the compressor up front so you will have to check.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:56 AM   #27
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Any other areas prone to leaks?
I hope you're kidding.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:56 PM   #28
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I hope you're kidding.
Ok...I get the point. Looks like this weekend I will be getting the ladder out and doing a ton of scraping and caulking. I am going to pull up all the flooring so I should be able to find most of the old problem areas.

How about the seams of the rv? Looks to be a thin line of caulking there as well. Suggestions on how to remove the old and how to apply new?
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