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Old 12-10-2012, 10:12 PM   #1093
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Wixom , Michigan
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I think they call it a Hula Skirt (for some reason - I remember this from an RV show). ;-)
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:24 AM   #1094
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Originally Posted by STstudios View Post
I think they call it a Hula Skirt (for some reason - I remember this from an RV show). ;-)

Got it!
Need to replace a couple of the pieces I think.

Ok, peeps, I need some help...

I have an "Open Neutral" in my 120v system, according to my little tester on the left here...
I am told this is potentially dangerous!



Its not on one plug, its all of them, and not to do with the onboard genset, as I get it when running on my portable 3500w generator, yet its plugs test good.

Now, the only thing I have touched on the 120V system was the connections in the juction box under the rear bed, when I removed the cable reel for restoration, and I was careful and think I replaced it as it was... which does not mean it was right!!!

Yesterday, I took another look at what I had done, and all looked tight... then I spotted something...
Outside the junction box there is a stray black wire....
I am holding it in LH side of this pic...



I traced it back and it goes rearward and into the wall under the gas filler assembly with a bunch of other wires...


If anyone has a moment can they look and see if they have a similar wire and where it should be connected???
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:53 AM   #1095
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Steve,

Hopefully I can explain it correctly, if not I'm sure someone will jump in and correct me.

In the motorhome main entrance panel (circuit breaker box) the neutral (white) wire should be on it's own buss bar that is NOT grounded. The ground (green) wire should be grounded to the box which means it is also grounded to the chassis.

The motorhome main entrance panel is actually considered a sub panel since it normally is connected to shore power. With shore power the ONLY place the neutral and ground wires are connected together is at the main entrance panel for the house, building, etc.

Now, the generator is considered it's own entrance panel (my words!) so it's neutral (white) wire should be bonded to ground (green) wire on the generator side of the transfer switch.

When the generator is not in service it's neutral wire is isolated from the rest of the coach via the transfer switch so the coach neutral wiring (white) will not show grounded.

Keep in mind your motorhome is not currently connected to shore power so if the generator is not running you will not have a bonded neutral to ground.

If your generator is running then the neutral should be bonded to ground.

There are a lot of good explanations on Airforums as to why the wiring is like this.

Like I said I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong and will explain why.

If your coach has two transfer switches then the attached drawings should give you an idea of how the wiring is in your coach.

Brad

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Old 12-11-2012, 12:27 PM   #1096
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Thanks Brad!

I have started a thread over in the electrical section too, and getting some interesting feedback there from Idroba...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ml#post1237069
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:45 PM   #1097
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That black with a white stripe wire is spliced to the black wire fastened to the light in the water/electric reel compartment in my motorhome.
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Old 12-11-2012, 02:49 PM   #1098
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That black with a white stripe wire is spliced to the black wire fastened to the light in the water/electric reel compartment in my motorhome.

Awesome info Gunter!
I will look into that when I am next over!
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Old 12-11-2012, 03:02 PM   #1099
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I did not need to go to the MH...
Gunner is 100% correct, that is the feed wire for the reel compartment light!
I looked back at some "before" pictures of the underbed area, and compartment and there it was!
I had not reconnected it because I have to replace the floor in that area.
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Old 12-18-2012, 10:56 AM   #1100
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My Buddy has promised to come over with me to take a look at the Open Neutral issue...
I read him your comments Brad, and he said it made sense... which is more than it did to me!

In the meantime, I am still working on sealing the MH..

Put sealant on several more of the window frames, and got them done.
Will need to clean up the excess later when its cured, same with the marker lamp castings... the sealant tools worked great!

Spot polished the places, and got the front marker lamp castings on... leaving the drain hole open..
Just in time too, as it started raining!



Did a good cut on the pass side front corner and removed the gunk from where the moulding was.

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Old 12-18-2012, 11:27 AM   #1101
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My attempt to start piecing the rear fairings back together went as I thought... not gonna be easy!
The edges of the broken sections were cleaned and beveled back, then filled with MEK?ABS slurry, and pulled back into place with tape. The problem is that the whole shape is distorted, and would not line up well. I have resigned myself to the idea that they will just be reference points for new parts made in fiberglass.
Now I have a good reason to buy a gallon of gelcoat and everything I will need.

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Old 12-18-2012, 12:09 PM   #1102
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Quote:
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My Buddy has promised to come over with me to take a look at the Open Neutral issue...
I read him your comments Brad, and he said it made sense...
I guess there is a first for everything
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Old 12-18-2012, 03:51 PM   #1103
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LOL Brad!

Well the rear bumper is proving to be an interesting project...

The main bumper is an extrusion... the main face is 3/16" thick thinning to 1/8" at the edges.

The welded repair whilst it was welded both sides, was poorly done and lacked penetration.
A "forensic" examination of the damage tells an interesting story...

On the side that was broken, there was a dent in the bumper surface... my guess is that it was backed into something...



The 16500lb momentum broke the bumper along the mounting bolt holes..

The repair was done by welding the broken pieces together, as I showed in an earlier picture.
The weld was not fully penetrated into the bumper material, and you can see the layers...


Also they added a fishplate, which was bolted behind.


OK, so far, but why/how was it broken again??

This was the first clue...
Behind the bumper, look at the deformation of the weld and base material...


Clearer here....


The original impact that broke the bumper was done by reversing, but this damage was done in the opposite direction, bending the bumper rearward at the weld..

A quick look at the streetside end confirmed it...

The LH or upper side of this pic shows a flat spot or dent in the bumper end... against my hand.. and look at the crack...


View from inside...


So, most probably that long 345 tail swang out on a turn and snagged on somthing!
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Old 12-18-2012, 04:01 PM   #1104
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I am awaiting delivery of a course aluminum Burr to rip off the old weld and get a weldable surface first.
There is some question if my 140A MIG welder can fully penetrate on the 3/16" thickness, but I am at least gonna prep and tack it together for someone else to weld.

I started by dressing out 95% of the dent... just the little low spot where the marker circle is left.
I will have to fill the 3 holes closest to the cmaera with weld.


What I found interesting is that the whole bumper is attached by the 2 coachbolts that go thru the chassis leg.. The bumper itself is very light.. maybe 5lb..
The over riders are scary heavy tho... they weigh almost 10lb each, and are heavy castings!

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Old 12-18-2012, 05:50 PM   #1105
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Detective Keyair

I think that you have identified the vehicle that damaged my 1976 Pinto in the Disneyland Parking lot in 1985, and I would like to send you a repair bill to restore my car to its original condition.

Please send my your billing address.

Dave
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:45 AM   #1106
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Quote:
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What I found interesting is that the whole bumper is attached by the 2 coachbolts that go thru the chassis leg.. The bumper itself is very light.. maybe 5lb..
There is no doubt that an Airstream bumper is not designed for what the name implies

Quote:
The over riders are scary heavy tho... they weigh almost 10lb each, and are heavy castings!
You would have thought the bumper would have been made like the over rider but when you consider what that might have weighed I can see why they went with a light weight bumper.

Brad
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