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Old 11-24-2012, 07:28 PM   #1051
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Yeah, with a full 12v at the pump, there was no suction.
In fact it almost felt like it was pushing back...
I ran out of time to inverstigate further.
Hmmm, are you certain it's not wired backwards? I don't know if the Facet pump is polarity sensitive or not. Been a while since I used one. I believe Holly pumps are sensitive to polarity.

Brad
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:48 PM   #1052
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Reconnected it the same way it was... plus it only has one wire... its grounded by its bracket..

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Old 11-26-2012, 06:04 AM   #1053
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That's the same pump I have on our Kohler. You're right its kinda hard to wire it backwards

I think you mentioned you tried a different pump with the same results. You definitely have a weird problem and I'm at a loss as to how to explain it.

I did notice on our Kohler that after disconnecting the apparently failed shutdown solenoid the generator fired up almost instantly the next morning when it was around 35 degrees outside. That's the first time it's ever fired right off at any temperature. I still need to figure out the choke issue but that will be another day.

Brad
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:59 AM   #1054
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I was not able to get too deep into trouble shooting it last time, but I will and post the solution or results of my test later.

Oh, one for everyones info...

The front lower blinker lamp assemblies on our and other classic motorhomes, are from a 1967/8 Chevy Pickup!

They have Guide ITB SAE IP 67 cast on the lenses.

Looks like they made them in Amber and clear lens versions for the pickup.
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:38 PM   #1055
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Question...

Next time I am over at the MH, I want to get the marker lamp casting back on...

Looking at them on the bench last week I noticed a "Weep Hole" in the lower edge of each one..

My question is when sealing/caulking the castings to the roof, should I leave it open and risk water being driven into the hole when driving in rain, or close it with a bead of sealant and risk condensation or pooling of water?

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Old 11-26-2012, 05:05 PM   #1056
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Question...

Next time I am over at the MH, I want to get the marker lamp casting back on...

Looking at them on the bench last week I noticed a "Weep Hole" in the lower edge of each one..

My question is when sealing/caulking the castings to the roof, should I leave it open and risk water being driven into the hole when driving in rain, or close it with a bead of sealant and risk condensation or pooling of water?

My feeling is the weep holes are there for a reason. I treat them the say way I do windows on a house, caulk the tops and sides and leave the bottom open so moisture can escape. If you don't they will condensate on the inside anyway.

After tearing apart the 345 and seeing how the wire access holes were so heavily sealed with vulkem on the inside I doubt that you even need to worry about caulking them anywhere.

JMHO

Brad
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Old 11-26-2012, 05:33 PM   #1057
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Thanks for the input Brad!

Seems logical, and having thought about it, I was leaning that way!
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:32 PM   #1058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Oh, one for everyones info...

The front lower blinker lamp assemblies on our and other classic motorhomes, are from a 1967/8 Chevy Pickup!

They have Guide ITB SAE IP 67 cast on the lenses.

Looks like they made them in Amber and clear lens versions for the pickup.
top rh side of this page..
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
Whoa! Just what I need. The lenses on mine are cracked, faded and blasted.

I tell ya, you never know where, or when you're going to come across some little nugget of info on this site.

Thanks Keyair, and thanks in advance to Santa as they will make great stocking stuffers.
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Old 11-26-2012, 09:43 PM   #1059
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[QUOTE=Keyair;1227957]Took a break from studying to try to get a couple of areas finished...

Front roof is a MESS.
At least 3 big soft dents and what looks like hail damage too...
Its amazing what that horrible dull oxidized finish was hiding...
I will have to pull the interior trim out and massage it back from the inside in the future.

I got most of it rough cut quickly, but stuggled with the combo of silicon and other sealants around the top of windshield seal... trying to get it off without damaging the seal, or the aluminum was a pain!
Needed a scraper I have at home, so gave up.

Anyway... here is the ugliness... lucky its not so visble from the ground!

Quote Keyair




The metal up there is incredibly soft and thin. I guess it's what's needed to form a complex curve, but it bites. P&S trailers used a suction puller to pull out two big dents out of my top left ny the PO; not perfect, but almost. The suction tool worked by compressed air. Once the tool had clamped itself to the surface, you pulled up hard on the slide hammer.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...epair-_-188254

Your other choice is to seal up the body and inject compressed air, LOL.

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Old 11-27-2012, 11:01 AM   #1060
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Glad to be of use on that lamp!
Mine are cracked and rusty, and the bulb sockets are corroded badly.



Saw some NOS on Ebay that looked like a good price...
But I am thinking to go clear lenses, and LED or maybe even do something really trick with LED daytime running lights in there..
Here are the NOS lamps.
67 Chevrolet Park Signal Lamp lens , Truck,? Van?, Step van ,box truck | eBay

On the roof dents, I have this gem to try...


I also has resonable success with the glue-stick puller... altho getting them to stick to the polished areas has not been much fun!
Here is one I did on the rear streetside marker lamp dent...




You can barely see it now..



Once it is all polished I will give it a shot, but my gut tells me I will have better results from inside when I pull the inner cap, as I plan to anyway. It needs crack repairs, and I would like to add a roof spotlamp and maybe CB antenna at that time.
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:11 PM   #1061
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....when I pull the inner cap, as I plan to anyway. It needs crack repairs, and I would like to add a roof spotlamp and maybe CB antenna at that time.
All I can say is you're a brave man to be pulling the inner cap

There are many things I would rather do, you know, wrestle a porcupine, have all my teeth pulled, etc

Brad
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Old 11-27-2012, 03:46 PM   #1062
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All I can say is you're a brave man to be pulling the inner cap

There are many things I would rather do, you know, wrestle a porcupine, have all my teeth pulled, etc

Brad

Brad

UMMMM since you're parting out a 345, maybe you could try and take out the headliner and give us some tips. I too have to get into my spot light and figure out why it won't work.

By the way if you are sucessful at taking out the plastic moulding that connects the headliner to the main interior in one piece I would be interested in buying it from you.

Cheers
Tony
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:41 PM   #1063
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Brad

UMMMM since you're parting out a 345, maybe you could try and take out the headliner and give us some tips.
Tony, I think I'm a little past taking out the headliner...

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For starters and I'm sure it's pretty obvious you have to remove everything that is mounted to via screws or rivets to the headliner. This includes but is not limited to the curtain track, sun visors, spotlight control, reading lights, plastic window trim pieces and anything else that might be attached.

Then you remove the trim strip that covers the seam between the aluminum ceiling panels and the plastic liner.

I'm pretty sure you have to remove the aluminum ceiling strips that are on top of the liner because the liner is actually installed first by Airstream, riveted into place and then the aluminum ceiling is installed on top of that and riveted into place and finally the trim strip is riveted over the top of the other two layers. That makes for three layers of rivets you have to deal with. You "might" and I repeat "might" be able to remove all those rivets without pulling all of the ceiling panels down in that area but there is also a good chance that you'll bend or tweak the aluminum panels which would put creases in them. I know it was a bear taking them out one layer at a time I can't imagine how tough it would be to try and not damage anything in the process. Keep in mind when I was dismantling the 345 I wasn't worried about saving the aluminum ceiling panels. I definitely put some creases in them as I went. That's why wrestling with a porcupine would be more appealing to me

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Quote:
I too have to get into my spot light and figure out why it won't work.
Have you checked the fuse that is located behind the switch panel? If you remove the four screws holding the switch panel in the headliner you will find an inline fuse (great place for a fuse ). Check to see if it's blown. From there I think there is some information in the service manual pertaining to the spotlight.

Quote:
By the way if you are successful at taking out the plastic moulding that connects the headliner to the main interior in one piece I would be interested in buying it from you.
The molding was disintegrating before I got the motorhome. At one time I thought I had found some at one of the Airstream suppliers but I just looked and couldn't find it. I will need some for the Argosy so if you locate some let me know!

Brad
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Old 11-27-2012, 05:45 PM   #1064
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...add a roof spotlamp and maybe CB antenna at that time.
Steve, I forgot to mention. If you do decide to add a spotlight to the roof, Airstream used a support panel that was fastened to the inner ceiling with some sort of adhesive. The panel was about 1/16" thick and hexagonal in shape. I pretty sure I saved that support panel if you want it.

Brad
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