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Old 10-16-2012, 03:13 PM   #995
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LOL... yeah even when they are married to a Spice Girl....
I didn't know Beckham played Football? I thought he played that silly game where everyone runs around chasing that little round ball...
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:07 AM   #996
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Starting with some info for you Brad!

My template here at the house says:
Distance between front and rear centers of two top holes: 58mm
2.283" Probably 2.25"

Quote:
Distance between front and rear centers of two bottom holes: 52mm
2.047" Probably 2.0625"

Quote:
Distance between centers of top and bottom holes: 63mm
2.48" Probably 2.5"

Quote:
Distance from top two holes to bottom edge of window frame: 60mm
2.362" Probably 2.375"

Quote:
Distance from bottom holes to upper belt extrusion: 52mm
2.047" Probably 2.0625"

Quote:
MM are a silly European thing I know, but I still get confused with fractions...
Ditto, only in reverse

Thanks for the numbers. Now I can start filling in the blanks on my sketches.

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:30 AM   #997
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If you didnt have this, here is the 2025 Velvac Mirror specs inc the mirror foot bolt hole dimensions...
http://www.velvac.com/pdf/7138002.11.pdf
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:38 AM   #998
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If you didnt have this, here is the 2025 Velvac Mirror specs inc the mirror foot bolt hole dimensions...
http://www.velvac.com/pdf/7138002.11.pdf
Yep, that's the document I've been working with.

For what it's worth the mounts shown on page 1 are what I have for the Argosy and the mounts shown on page 5 are what I have for the 310.

I'm still looking for a mirror head for the passenger side of the Argosy as I'm sort of piecing that set together from parts as I find them. I got the two Argosy mounts from Walts RV Salvage in the Los Angeles area and the drivers mirror head on eBay.

The 310 mirrors I got as a set on eBay a long time ago and just haven't had time to mount them.

I'm really looking forward to having the ability to adjust them from the inside

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:39 PM   #999
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Brad, if you don't yet have the adjusting switch, there is a place on Ebay that has them a lot cheaper than retail!
I got mine for $32 on sale, but there are some for under $50... better than $120!
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Old 10-18-2012, 01:42 PM   #1000
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Wow, right after my last post I spotted something....
This is some milestone.... Post 1,000 on this saga/blog...

So I better show some progress!

Stopped by late yesterday afternoon to do a few things...
Man, it was HOT there... and inside felt like 150F!

Finally fitted my little rearview camera cover..
It had to be screwed on, so I can remove it to get at the camera mounting/adjusting bolts, but I cant help but felt it looks so much better than before!



A few things I also noticed....
No timing marks on the bottom of the motor....


I can clearly see fluid dripping off the PS pump, so for sure its gotta come out..

Here is the LED i put in the scare lamp...


I had put the same LED's in the docking lamps too, but have not found replacement lenses... they are useless anyway.



The actual hole is 3 1/4" so I have been looking for something better that would fit.
These 10W floodlamps I saw on Ebay look promising....
They are waterproof, 12v dc 10W flood or spotlamp style, with aluminum cases..
Remove the bracket, and make an split adapter plate, to fit the hole already there, or maybe make them
They even make a color version that can be white or RGB mix with a remote for maybe adding some "Mood" later...
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Old 10-18-2012, 02:41 PM   #1001
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Brad, if you don't yet have the adjusting switch, there is a place on Ebay that has them a lot cheaper than retail!
I got mine for $32 on sale, but there are some for under $50... better than $120!
Just picked up a couple last week off of ebay for $48 each. I plan on making my own little mounting plate that includes the heater switch. Should be an interesting installation.

I've been toying with the idea of having a good set of adapter plate plans drawn up and sending them off to one of those places that does CNC machining and see what it would cost to have them made. It would be nice to be able to provide an option for other owners if they wanted to install the Velvac mirrors but don't have the machining capabilities. We'll see...

Brad
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Old 10-18-2012, 07:12 PM   #1002
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Two switches Brad?
Do you have the twin power mirrors... or one for a spare???

As for the mirror foot adapters... maybe make a mould and cast them in resin?

Ok, here is my problem of the day...
A while back I knew my upper marker lamps were bad.
I bought a new set, made by Grote... 5 red, and 5 amber.
Her is a view of the internals... complete with incandecent bulbs.



I already mounted the rear ones, and if you notice the Ground connection is handled by the tab under the mounting screw...
The Incandecents worked great, but when I swapped in the the LED bulbs, they would not work.. so I swapped teh incandecents back in.

Now I have the front markers on the bench and wanted to figure it out.

Connected the body to a ground, and the wire to +.
The Incandecents worked fine.
Put in an LED, on one side... Nada... Nothing, but Incandecent was working fine.
Now, I know that LED's are polarity sensative, so I swapped the connection... Body of lamp + and wire ground..
Worked great..


Now, I looked closely at the fixture..


Note... the gold colored metal is connected to the single wire... so should be +... yet its the body of the bulb...
And the silver colored metal that has the the screw tab... that would be ground is connected to the ceter post of the bulb....

What is up with that?
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:15 PM   #1003
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Two switches Brad?
Do you have the twin power mirrors... or one for a spare???
Nope, two motorhomes

Quote:
As for the mirror foot adapters... maybe make a mould and cast them in resin?
That is a possibility. I'm not all that familiar with that process but I do know about machining

Quote:
Note... the gold colored metal is connected to the single wire... so should be +... yet its the body of the bulb...
And the silver colored metal that has the the screw tab... that would be ground is connected to the ceter post of the bulb....

What is up with that?
Either these fixtures were made for incandescents which are not polarity sensitive or Triumph sports cars prior to 1967 which were positive ground
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Old 10-18-2012, 08:28 PM   #1004
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Either these fixtures were made for incandescents which are not polarity sensitive or Triumph sports cars prior to 1967 which were positive ground
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:44 PM   #1005
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Brad,
As I mentioned over in the mileage thread, I had the Zemco unit in my Mini, in Europe...
It was one of the last ones they made... the DCS-320..
Saw this one on Ebay recently sold for $150.
Snagged the pics for my records...
Its a DIN size unit, which was both good and bad.
I like the ZT-4... smaller, and can be mounted on dash or closer to line of sight for throttle feathering gas sipping mode!



I loved it, which is why I know it will work great in the M/H.

Only issue will be running the Genset will mess up some of the calculations!

I actually snagged a spare fuel flow sensor off Ebay last year... lucky.
It will be mounted in a insulated box up on the pass side, for exactly the reason you mentioned about heat..
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Old 10-19-2012, 03:03 PM   #1006
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Brad,
As I mentioned over in the mileage thread, I had the Zemco unit in my Mini, in Europe...
It was one of the last ones they made... the DCS-320..
Saw this one on Ebay recently sold for $150.
Snagged the pics for my records...
Its a DIN size unit, which was both good and bad.
I like the ZT-4... smaller, and can be mounted on dash or closer to line of sight for throttle feathering gas sipping mode!
I don't know that I've ever heard the term "gas sipping" used when talking about a 454

Quote:
I loved it, which is why I know it will work great in the M/H.

Only issue will be running the Genset will mess up some of the calculations!

I actually snagged a spare fuel flow sensor off Ebay last year... lucky.
It will be mounted in a insulated box up on the pass side, for exactly the reason you mentioned about heat..
Having a spare flow sensor is a good idea.

Interesting comment about running the genset at the same time. My Argosy has two tanks, one factory of 30 gallons and one home made tank (by PO) in the rear behind the axle. If I want to install the 345 air suspension in the Argosy (which I do) I have to at a minimum reduce the size and shape of that home made tank. I do want have some sort of gas tank back there if for no other reason than to run the genset. I guess I will just make sure that the genset only pulls from the rear tank and run the 454 off the front tank the bulk of the time. That would ensure that my mpg readings are accurate.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:23 PM   #1007
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Wow, a 30 gallon tank is all that was installed in the Argosy? The 80 gallon tank in mine is sounding better all the time, lol
Derek
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:44 PM   #1008
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Wow, a 30 gallon tank is all that was installed in the Argosy? The 80 gallon tank in mine is sounding better all the time, lol
Derek
80 gallons is great until you have to pay for 80 gallons of gas all at once

I hate those filling stations where they stop at $75 or $100. As for the 30 gallon tank, I guess they figure the smaller the vehicle (20') the less fuel it needs, yeah right

There isn't a whole lot of room under the chassis of a 20' Argosy MH. There is a 9.8 gallon propane tank, 30 gallon fuel tank, 28 gallon black water tank and an 18 gallon auxiliary tank. Put all those under a small chassis and there isn't much room left.

The home made fuel tank that was added behind the differential is probably about a 20 gallon tank. I'll have to reduce that down to about 10 gallons when I install the 345 air suspension system. In order to get the air suspension installed I have to add an air tank under there and I'm not sure where that's going to go.

There are no under chassis storage compartments other than the two small ones at the very back rear corners. Oddly enough these compartments don't seem to be on any other Argosy.

Brad
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