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Mike Leary · 10-24-2010, 04:18 PM

Nice looking garage floor! Thanks for the Google suggestion; a ton of good stuff in there. Figured on building a cradle & jig when we get to our winter site in Ajo and try to re-align everything before the repair. Note: avoid vultures
taking off in front off you, they weigh around 20-30 pounds!

Keyair · 10-24-2010, 10:50 PM

Thats pretty banged up.
My front corners are both cracked around the bumper and turn lanps, and my front bumper is slightly tweeked too... did see it until I got it home... I can fix it tho!

Keyair · 10-29-2010, 10:51 AM

All good news this week for a change!
A trip to the local Junkyard revealed a GMC Sierra 3500 Pickup with a BBC, with what looked like all the Emissions stuff intact!
I pulled the Airfilter, plasic intake pipe, heat riser pipes, smog pump and all of the hoses I could possibly find. The Carb was gone, so I was not able to label where it all went. As always the air injection pipes into the manifolds were not coming out intact, so I snapped the fitting to the pipes(they look like nonreturn valves) off at the manifolds.
The pulley on the smog pump is bent, but I think I can straighten it.
Total spent... $43, oh plus $2 entry!

I found what I think is the correct Rochester 4BB carb on Ebay, and it looks in good shape.

I plan on rebuilding it if I need to use it, but am kinda loathed to take off what I have as the M/H runs so strong and gave 8mpg, so it must be pretty good.

So, a visit to ROCKAUTO online surprised me with a pair of brand new manifold injection pipes shipped to my door for $66... One of them was on "closeout" for $15, and the other was $30... $18 shipping tho, cos it came from 2 locations. What is fun, is that the new injection pipes dont come with the valves I salvaged at the JY!

Keyair · 10-29-2010, 10:55 AM

Oh, and my GF replaced my Digital Camera... well, in fact I got an upgrade!
Great Girl!

Pics of my JY treasure coming later!

Keyair · 11-02-2010, 01:45 PM

The PO had stripped and part polished the front, and it needs mopre work, so a trip to HF gave me some POWER!
And yes, I took the 2 year replacement plan!

Keyair · 11-09-2010, 10:02 AM

Still working on the Spare tire cover and fixing some cosmetics... the worn thru corner is still ongoing, and I just put another smear of slurry on, and waiting for it to fully harden takes a few days. I am gonna post some pics of the fiberglass reinforcement I put on the lower cracked areas later...

In trhe meantime, I have been working on some other stuff!
Here is a pic of the way some PO modded the underbed area...
I need some input on how it should look and if this stock?
I have a bunch of electrical stuff where I think the correct 80 gallon FW tank should be....
Note the 15G tank...

Here is a closeup of the box I think needs to move..

I found this piece of wiring floating around in the area too... anyone know what its for(maybe FW tank level cable)?

Here is a shot of the water damaged floor in the rear corner..

Keyair · 11-13-2010, 11:55 PM

Bump...
Anyone got ideas?

Anyway, I have been a busy Bee!

Repaired the rust holes in the brake lamp, and found some odd stuff...
Is it normaly wire so that both filaments of the bulb come on together?

I was looking at the way this lamp is... A dual filament bulb with a gloss black reflector?
Seemed stupid, so I lined the reflector with a reflective tape... 100% brighter on the bulb, and also the relector ring works much better too!

Still working on the paintwork of the tire cover... filling small scratches, and primered again.

Smartstream · 11-14-2010, 01:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Bump...
Anyone got ideas?

Anyway, I have been a busy Bee!

Repaired the rust holes in the brake lamp, and found some odd stuff...
Is it normaly wire so that both filaments of the bulb come on together?

I was looking at the way this lamp is... A dual filament bulb with a gloss black reflector?
Seemed stupid, so I lined the reflector with a reflective tape... 100% brighter on the bulb, and also the relector ring works much better too!

Still working on the paintwork of the tire cover... filling small scratches, and primered again.

I can't tell for sure without tracing some wires but my AS has a box with a similar relay that is an automatic transfer switch from shore power to generator. It looks like the large black cable leading through the floor might be the shore power cable and the smaller cable on the opposite side could lead to the generator and the romax on the left side going to the breaker box. It's just a guess but might give you a direction to start looking.

Good luck, Dan

Robfike · 11-14-2010, 05:14 AM

Keyair,
Wow, I can't believe what some people will do to a motorhome!
Too bad the 80 gallon FW tank is gone. The small wiring harness you show is the harness for the water level probes. The electrical box is the switch over box for Shore/Gen power. There should be a small vertical wall that closes off the storage area on the street side from the FW tank. You can see the difference in the floor where it was. The electrical box mounts on that wall so it is in the storage area.
You can let the wood floor dry out and then paint it so water can no longer soak into it.
If I can, I will try to get you some pictures of how it was/should be.
Rob

Robfike · 11-14-2010, 12:27 PM

Keyair,
Here are some pictures of how your 345 started out. The street side rear storage compartment has the electrical box attached to the divider wall. The rear end of the compartment is open to the pump and level sensor area.
The 80 gallon FW tank would take up all the area between the divider wall you are missing, and the isle side divider wall shown in your picture. (Under the bed) We have 3 pull out storage bins under the bed on the isle side.
Hope this helps.
Rob

Keyair · 11-14-2010, 10:32 PM

Good call Smartstream, you were right!
Rob, thats simply awesome!
Now I can begin to see what I need to do!
In fact, looking at my master pic, I can see the holes in the bed rail where the wall was screwed in!
It just didnt make sense to me where you could fit a 80G tank!

Mine has drop down doors that open on the isle side..
The wood is soft and braeking up... what should I paint it with... did I read somewhere ther is something that will soak in and bond it together?

Gypsy Jo · 11-15-2010, 08:41 AM

There is . Rot doc is one I have heard of and epoxy filler is anotherIf you search the forums with those key words you will come up with more info.

ScrapIrony-2 · 11-15-2010, 12:22 PM

There's an epoxy-based paint that soaks in and hardens...don't remember the name offhand, but I would think any big box store or marina supply place would be familiar with it...m

Keyair · 11-15-2010, 09:56 PM

Ok, will look into that stuff.

Here is the mod I did to the central lamp...
This is the tape, I thinks its furnace joint tape, so should be good for the heat.

Not perfect or pretty, but it was a test..

Then I put the lens on and wired it up..
Results were good, if a little tricky to photograph!

This is with no flash in a darkened garage.

Keyair · 11-17-2010, 07:41 PM

Reflector for the lower edge... maybe I will get some amber to go on the sides..
$1.99 a pac of 2 from Walmart..

Keyair · 11-18-2010, 12:47 PM

Water tank lucky... I think!
Was working on the Airstream a couple of days back, and "Neighbor" stopped to chat.. end result, he told me he had a fresh water tank he didnt want and I could have for my Baby!
I ended up trading a 6 pack of Negro Modelo(only thing I had in my truck!) for a the 48x25x13(about 70 gallons) tank.
It will fit, but the fittings are not in the right places. There is a large hole in the top(6"), with a screw on lid and seal, and a threaded fitting on on one side near the end, but it would be on the inboard side..
I will post a pic later, but how do you add/remove fitting on poly tanks?

As its "Only" 70 gallons, it did occur to me to leave the 15 gallon tank in and fill that for traveling to save weight, and add a valve, so I can optionally link/ fill the 70 gallon via the 15 gal when need a full 80 gallons.
Would that work?

Keyair · 11-19-2010, 11:33 AM

Good info on ABS/MEK repair here...
VFR Plastic Repair

Keyair · 11-19-2010, 12:06 PM

I wanted to update my progress on the spare wheel cover...
A buddy of ine told me this worked for him so I thought I would try it.
Reinforcing ABS cracks with fiberglass and the ABS/MEK slurry..

I had fixed the crack in the previous post and added a layer of slurry...
I brushed some mixture on that fix, to wet it out, and then dabbed in the fiberglass..

It is still a little soft today, so I am leaving it for a few more days.
Yes, I should have removed the latch rivets and redone them after, but I cannot find my rivet gun!
Also, I forgot to take a pic of it finished!

Keyair · 11-19-2010, 12:31 PM

Here is my "Sixpack" Tank!

And for reference, here is a pic of the underbed storage area...
I measured that I have 27" from the inboard divider to the fuel filler cover where the 15 tank is now... so it looks like its almost the same width as the smaller tank is long.
I will put back the missing divider, and remount the electrical box on it where it should be, and loose those red crates!

As the pics show, the only fitting is technically on the wrong side of the tank..
I was thinking about doing it like this...
Leave the 15 gal tank as is. Fill tube and all.
Put a T in that white pump supply line... one side to the 15 gal tank and is always fed, then add a valve to the other side of the T which goes to the 70G tank.
I will be able to reach the valve from the open access door.
When the valve is open, and I fill the 15, the water flows thru the pump T and the water goes into the 70 as well, and the 2 tanks self level.
I will need to add a vent to the 70 and I understand that it may fill a little slower.
With the valve open both tanks fill and feed the system together.
If I close the valve, then only the 15 fills and drains, and the 70 remains full or empty.
This would minimise slosh too!
Also I think I will put a 1" piece of insulation foam under both tanks, and maybe even completely cover them.
Does this make any sense to anyone?

Keyair · 12-06-2010, 11:32 AM

Anyone tell me how the level wires go?
So I have following colors with ring tabs:
Black, Red, Green, Purple, and Orange.

Can anyone tell me how many sensor plugs I need(looks like 5) to get and how/where in the tank they need to go?
I think I will put the level plugs in the 15 gallon.
I have looked, but cant find the harness plug that this little pigtail plugs into... Anyone have an idea?