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Old 11-07-2011, 12:43 AM   #617
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Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
My seal fit pretty well, and the only place I will add glue would be the upper forward part.

What did you do about the gutter holes Dan?
My seal has a metal lattice embedded, so you cannot cut it easily, and I was concerned about weakening the seal, so I read somewhere about using a red hot screwdriver to punch some drain holes?
It has been a few months since I did the window but if I remember correctly the schlegle sits in a track with an open slot it's entire length. The slot is open to a lower chamber that is where the drains with the plastic covers live. I used a gasket hole punch to cut drain holes and yes I cut some of the metal lattice and yes it weakened the immediate area but I don't think it will be a problem as the schlegle fits tight and is well supported in the track. I may try the hot screwdriver on the next window. I also think cutting the schlegle 1/4" or 3/8" short on the lower front edge may do more than enough for drainage.

I didn't use any adhesive as the schlegle fit pretty tight in the track and the glass holds it in place in it's normally closed position. The old schlegle was pulled away from the radiused corners at the rear. I think if the stuff shrinks with age and is glued on the horizontal forward legs it may explain why it pulled in the corners. If the upper front piece starts to droop I may add some glue in that area. Only time will tell.

On our recent 16,300 mile trip the wife gave that window lots of exercise taking pictures and all the gaskets still look just like they did when I put them in.

Good luck, Dan
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Old 11-07-2011, 11:55 AM   #618
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Dan,
Thanks...your post brought up another question (as usual). What's the general feeling on the value of the plastic covers? When I was looking at Moho's I saw some with and some with very few covers (mine has them all). It seems as thou they could be plugged and you can't tell, whereas if you don't have you can see the gunk and clean it out.

They seem very brittle at this point and easily broken.

Bill
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Old 11-09-2011, 07:47 PM   #619
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Thanks for that Smartstream...
I was over today working my @$$ off, and found time to look at what you said...
You are correct... and this is VERY important..
There is an UPPER channel that holds the Schlegle, and there is a lower "chamber" below it.
This critical stuff.
This just changed my whole view of the channel and rain water management.
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:24 PM   #620
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Thanks for that Smartstream...
I was over today working my @$$ off, and found time to look at what you said...
You are correct... and this is VERY important..
There is an UPPER channel that holds the Schlegle, and there is a lower "chamber" below it.
This critical stuff.
This just changed my whole view of the channel and rain water management.
For a little background on my passenger window problem. The diagonal track at the rear of the fixed glass was pushing out at the top. It had come loose before and someone put a screw through the outer frame to hold it. Over time this was failing. Apparently this rail is held in place by a sheet metal screw from the top and bottom. The top screw had broken causing the problem. The trouble is in order to access this screw you have to remove the entire window frame or the ABS headliner.

I called the guy who installed my windshields to take a look. He confirmed the only was to get to the screws was to remove the frame. What I did to solve the problem was a little easier. I fabricated an aluminum "T" shaped block that fit snugly in the horizontal track where the diagonal track lives. The leading edge was cut at an angle to match the diagonal. The glass guy cut away as much of the pushed out and deformed gasket as he could and we pushed the diagonal back to it's correct position. I then installed the "T" block to hold the diagonal and secured it with a couple of rivets. We then resealed the stationary glass. The "T" block is recessed enough so that the rubber trim gaskets hide it.

The reason I mention this is to warn of a potential problem and also I saw no evidence of any attempt to seal the bottom screw. All the water that winds up in the lower chamber or drain channel is flooding around this lower screw while it is waiting to run out through the drain slots. I recommend you pack this screw well with Acryl- R and or polyurethane.

Sorry I didn't get any pictures but I didn't feel right have the glass guy standing around while I was snapping pictures and I was really more concerned about fixing the window frame.

Cheers, Dan
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Old 11-09-2011, 09:50 PM   #621
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Thanks dan,
I can see some rivets in the top, but not looked at the bottom.
I will be getting to the seals tomorrow I hope.

Just for the sake of keeping my thread all together...
Here was my Polishing progress today.

I have pretty much finished the Drivers side rear lower, mid, and first upper panel.
Nuvite G6 to remove the oxidization, and get the basic buff, and then Nuvite A.





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Old 11-09-2011, 09:55 PM   #622
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Now into the issues..

there is some rippling and damage on the upper seams, that I will need to tap down slightly before I buff, and reseal..
Clearly they have been replaced at some time...

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Old 11-12-2011, 08:29 PM   #623
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Steve,
I wasn't going to polish mine, but you're giving me the bug.
Bill
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Old 11-12-2011, 09:35 PM   #624
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Bill,
Its not a choice I took lightly...
Nor should you.
Its hard work and not cheap...
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Old 11-14-2011, 02:59 PM   #625
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Steve,
Finally got to the rear corner, street side and it looks like yours. I hate that chip board. Our days are still pretty warm so I might wait until it cools off a little before I tackle it. Gets kinds warm and stuffy back in that corner...it's always something. If my wife didn't love it, I think it would be in the Classified section.
Bill
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Old 11-14-2011, 03:38 PM   #626
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LOL, Bill.
Yep, its always something.
Firstly, you need to figure out where the leak is and seal it.

I will post an update this week on my progress...
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Old 11-14-2011, 07:17 PM   #627
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I went on first camping trip this past weekend. "Discovered" soft flooring between shower and bathroom door. Guess I'm looking for a leak, then pulling carpet and replace flooring. Has anyone ever pulled bathroom walls and shower walls down to get at plumbing and flooring?
Thanks, Derek
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:47 PM   #628
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LOL, Bill.
Yep, its always something.
Firstly, you need to figure out where the leak is and seal it.

I will post an update this week on my progress...
Steve,
I believe I have fixed the leak temporarily. Previous owner broke the curved left rear window and had it replaced, by an airstream dealer, but it never sealed properly (not sure how long it leaked). The day I got it and drove it home in a tropical storm, it was leaking badly. To try and trouble shoot the problem I used aluminum tape in various places. I finally sealed the top of the window and the water stopped. Too late to save the flooring.
Thanks for the encouragement.
Bill
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Old 11-14-2011, 11:40 PM   #629
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Derek, you should check your shower connections behind the wall, toilet and washbasin connections too... and the Sewer vents...
That sucks that you found a soft floor.
I have to say that my floors were only soft when they were wet... so be concerned about that, and find the source. When it dried, it was firm, but like carboard. My worst leak, and worst floor area is in the curbside bedrrom cupboard...
A combo of the burst pipe feeding the shower, a bad sewer vent gasket and blocked vent drains... And a leak from the outside storage frame joint... My floor in that area is toast, and the floor safe was full to the brim with water, and the lock was rusted shut!


So, a Keyair update...
My eldest son was in for the weekend from AZ... and that means I get to spend some quality father/son time....
Under his Mercedes, fixing stuff!
This weekend it was...
Transmission leak
Radiator Flush
Steering joints
And last but not least, remove his front springs, cut one coil off, and replace the rubber spring pockets with thinner ones...
This dropped the front of his car by 2", and now it sits better!
Phew!

Today, I had to figure out why my GF's Range Rover is not starting from hot... No answer yet, but I suspect a failing coil!

I went over to the AS about 3pm, and put a solid 2 hours into the shine...
It was dark when i was done, but I got 80% of the rear end done...
Need to remove the Rear View Camera, and AIRSTREAM letters(forgot my drill) before it will be done.
I was having trouble getting the upper middle section compounded... I could just reach, but not exsert enough downward pressure to break thru the krud.
I will need to replace the lower and mid curbside panels as they are damaged, but I will polish them for now to keep the view from behind good.

Had priceless moment..
I was up on the ladder, reaching up and over... polishing, and i saw a nice Lexus SUV approaching..
It stopped, and a very cute lady popped her head out and grinned at me..
She said she has been admiring my rear...
I said "Thanks, I am flattered... and what do you think to my Airstream?"
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:10 AM   #630
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Key,

Your polishing job is looking great!
To reach the high spots on my moho, I borrowed the steel framed ramp from my landscape trailer, and placed it across the upper rails of my pick-up truck. I mounted it with clamps to overhang either the rear bumper or sides of the truck as needed, and I could position it just inches from the sides of the moho. It gave me a good sized, secure platform from which to work.

Charly.
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