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Old 08-25-2011, 11:06 AM   #323
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I was frustrated yesterday with my Oil Pipe saga...
It was a failure...
No matter what I did, I could make it work..
I would get the main pipe screwed into the block, and the elbow on that...
But I didn't have enough clearance to screw on the rest of it!
Stopping at Home Depot again I found the perfect solution!
This.. A 3/4 Coupling!



It allows me to assemble the pipe into the block with the smaller piece on the right attached to it... and then attach the rest of the dipstick/fill tube assembly and the large nut pulls the whole lot together!
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:55 PM   #324
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1984 31' Airstream310
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I decided to try something....
I think I like it!
What did you use to polish the drawer?

I have also noticed that the front quarter panels appear to be a slightly different metal as well. I have been unable to polish them to the same level as the rest of the body panels.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:45 PM   #325
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Hi 97sx..
I stripped the paint and used my HF buffer, a wool pad and Nuvite G6.. it needs more work but looks great for now!

On the genset work.... SUCCESS!!!!!

I will post a full how to later... but for now here are the pics..





I rust treated and Hi-Temp painted the exhaust system... I hope it will dull down.. It not, I will repaint it a cast iron, or black.


The Generator took a while to prime, but it runs great...
Next step is to take some sound readings, and prep for the slides...
Here is the prep I did today..

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Old 08-25-2011, 11:28 PM   #326
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1936 20' Clipper
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Hi 97sx

I gather that you are in the midst of a polishing project yourself, as am I, so I can relate to your comment about the front quarter panels.
As I work to achieve a mirror finish on my 325, I am coming to the conclusion that the "formed, complex curved panels" are either made from a different alloy, or have been altered somewhat on a molecular level, as a result of the "forming" process. Most of the moho is made up of flat sheets that are gently rolled and riveted over a skeletal sub frame (like Keyairs drawer). They polish up relatively easily when compared to the front quarters. I am working with a seven inch wide rotary drum tool that polishes the flat sheets to a pretty good surface finish at the rate of about 20-25 square feet per hour using Nuvite F-10. With the F-10, I am trying to get to a "smooth" surface as quickly as possible. From there, I can work toward "clarity" and "depth" with Nuvite's finer grades.
The front quarters are a different story however. There seems to be a very fine pebbled texture to their surface that has proven difficult to get rid of, even with the F-10. I can't say that I'm thrilled with the results I've gotten so far. I would make the same observation on the similarly curved rear quarters of my 1949 Spartan.
I had a conversation with the owner of "Perfect Polish" who mentioned that he hears the same thing from people trying to polish the complex formed surfaces of various aluminum airplanes. His comment was, "you are trying to move a lot of metal around". I'm going forward with the belief that I simply have to cut deeper to get through that surface. My next step is to try a high speed grinder with an edge buffing wheel. I'll keep you posted.

Charly.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:37 PM   #327
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Hey Key,

Looks like you are being tempted by "the shiny side" of "the Force".

It all starts out innocently enough with the gratification of buffing one small part. Are you thinking of going the distance with the polishing?
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:00 AM   #328
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Well, I really like the polished look, and my clearcoat is toast... What else can I do.
My long term plan is to polish the main shell, including the end caps up to the roof joint, and white paint the roof. The reality is that I have a 20'+ section of Aluminum from the entrance door to the rear wrap, to replace before I will be done. A Daunting task with 2 windows, the awning, and what must be 500 rivets to R&R

I woke this morning feeling good... Now I have power, I have A/C, and I have battery charging!
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Old 08-26-2011, 08:51 AM   #329
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Silly question...
I am concerned about the effects of sitting idle on my tires...
What if I lift the weight off them with the Levelers, and leave it like that for a while?
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:07 PM   #330
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That will likely twist the frame and make the doors hard to open and close. If you are not able to drive it occasionally, I would leave it on the tires.

Paul
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Old 08-26-2011, 01:37 PM   #331
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Ok, thanks Paul... strike that idea!

Seems the Shiny "Dark Side" has me it its grip....

Gave it another polish with G6, and the buffer...



Then I hit it with the Cyclo and G6...


Interesting patterns!


I think this is good enough...


Just came in from the lovely task of hitting the rest with a cup wire brush on my angle grinder... found a couple of pin holes in the bottom corner.
Next is putting a coat of Anti-rust primer on the rest of the drawer...
Then I am doing the interior and underside with Truck Bed Liner...
This I think will make it tough, non-scratch, and non-skid.
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Old 08-26-2011, 05:47 PM   #332
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So, was over today and had to see what Streamquest was talking about...

Before...


After...




Closeup... Yes, its not as shiny as the flat panels...
But still a million times better than before!


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Old 08-26-2011, 07:59 PM   #333
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
So, was over today and had to see what Streamquest was talking about...

Before...


After...




Closeup... Yes, its not as shiny as the flat panels...
But still a million times better than before!


WOW! Awesome Job with the buffing job on the front quarter panel. Even if it's not as good as the flat panels, it's still WAY better than before. Trying to get a good fit for my 345 in the back yard. Going to be a tight fit, but think it will work. Really want to have it here so I can get to the moho without having to go to a storage yard, plus want the batteries on a charger. Great job!
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Old 08-27-2011, 07:34 AM   #334
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Thanks Crazee...
That took me about 15 mins, and I just hit it with the Compound Polisher, a wool buff, and the Nuvite G6. It was 95deg out there, and that section was in the sun... the sweat was running off me, but I was so jazzed... then the Generator quit, so I had to stop.
The PO, had already stripped and "sanded" that section... it was dull and I was concerned it was scratched. It came up good, altho not perfect.
Although its tricky to see, as Streamquest says, its kinda "pebbley"... you buff it and it looks good, but its not smooth like glass... it looks like Orange peel.
What I was pleased to see was how well that upper moulding polished up. I thought I would be removing them, but it cleaned up good... looks like Chrome.
Same cannot be said for the Grill castings...
As you can see, my Storage Neighbor is fixing his boat up... You meet all sorts of cool people when you have an Airstream!

Question...
The generator died, and my gut says no fuel... the tank gauge is showing under 1/4 full. Did I imagine it or did I read somewhere that the pickup tube for the genset is shorter, so you dont run the tank dry and cant drive to get gas?
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Old 08-27-2011, 09:19 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair
Thanks Crazee...
That took me about 15 mins, and I just hit it with the Compound Polisher, a wool buff, and the Nuvite G6. It was 95deg out there, and that section was in the sun... the sweat was running off me, but I was so jazzed... then the Generator quit, so I had to stop.
The PO, had already stripped and "sanded" that section... it was dull and I was concerned it was scratched. It came up good, altho not perfect.
Although its tricky to see, as Streamquest says, its kinda "pebbley"... you buff it and it looks good, but its not smooth like glass... it looks like Orange peel.
What I was pleased to see was how well that upper moulding polished up. I thought I would be removing them, but it cleaned up good... looks like Chrome.
Same cannot be said for the Grill castings...
As you can see, my Storage Neighbor is fixing his boat up... You meet all sorts of cool people when you have an Airstream!

Question...
The generator died, and my gut says no fuel... the tank gauge is showing under 1/4 full. Did I imagine it or did I read somewhere that the pickup tube for the genset is shorter, so you dont run the tank dry and cant drive to get gas?
Yup, fill up your gas tank. GenSet fuel line terminates higher in the gas tank so that you don't run out of gas out boon docking somewhere. As I was heading down highway 5 south of Redding on Thursday, I had GenSet and roof air going since it was 100 degrees outside. They ran great for about a half hour then stopped since I was under a quarter tank of gas...I'm very glad the dash air was working fine!

Keyair, so what's up with the heat in So Cal? We are down in Burbank (with car) for mother in law's 70th birthday party...it was 111 degrees at 5pm yesterday!
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Old 08-27-2011, 08:10 PM   #336
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Yes, whats up with the heat...
My Jeep said 98 deg
StillI knew I had a weep/leak from the rubber pipe between the filler and tank when I drove it back from Kansas last year.
Today before I refilled the tank, I replaced the pipe... I already had a length of 2" diameter high quality reinforced pipe left over from my Dodge Van project, but the Airstream is 1 3/4" pipe... I decided to use it for now, and double clamped it.


No smog, so no Tags, so no trip to the gas station.
Filled 2 x 5 gallon cans, and tried to tip it into the Airstream.. why is nothing easy?
The fuel filler flap, only comes up so far... and blocks you from tipping the can up to fill... GRRRR!
Through some juggling and creative licence I got about 9 gallons in.

The Generator was fired, and I went on some more stuff...
A little more Polishing..


Once the interior had cooled... and the 2 A/C's were blasting really good...
I started to cut some Insulated Sheets for the windows....
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