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Old 07-08-2018, 02:01 PM   #2101
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Im not the electronics guy, as you know, but this is the unit:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3500-w...tor-63584.html

And this is the "Parallel Kit".

https://www.harborfreight.com/RV-Rea...Kit-62564.html

I dont want to spend $1500 if I dont have to, but a pair of these looks very interesting...
57db, is quieter than the smaller 2000w unit I have, and that is pretty quiet.
The Kohler 7000w was 70 to 85Db outside and 65db, even inside running under load.
Clean power output, and electric start.
I bet a pair of them mounted side by side would sill leave room for another set of 6v Golfcart batteries and still be lighter than the original.

All just a maybe for now.
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Old 07-08-2018, 02:08 PM   #2102
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Churubusco , Indiana
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Don't think that parallel kit you linked does what you want, it's a 30A output for use with 2 2000 watt generators

Edit
If you wired yours like I have mine, 2 30A plugs, totally separate circuits, you could just run the 2 predator generators and give each one a plug, no bridge necessary
(It'll be more complicated for you than it was for me, because I assume you have a rotary switch, I'd need to see your wiring diagram, mine were already isolated making it easy)

Edit 2, that generator has an awesome owners manual, and it has parallel capability, just need to find the correct parallel kit, I wonder if it'll bridge the two into a proper 50A 220V RV outlet, since it can technically only put 30 to each side
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:13 PM   #2103
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Steve, as much as I like old things and like working on old things even by my standards it's probably time to just bite the bullet and move on from the Kohler.

You've not the only one that's made a mistake something like what you did with the Kohler. When I was building spitfire race engines I managed to collect a lot of expensive parts that were no longer usable due to my negligence
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Old 07-08-2018, 04:56 PM   #2104
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I hear ya Brad.
It may well turn out to be so, but I still will need to pull the Kohler out and clean up the mess.
I will assess the damage and decide then.

While this heat wave plays out, Iíve been working on my metalwork skills.
Iím busy on the lathe making mods to the ball/radius turning attachment so I can make the large radius roll die I need to move the wrap project forward.

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Added a 48oz BFH(Bossing Mallet) to the mix to move metal faster.

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Also, modified a tipping die for the bead roller. I used an old skateboard wheel as the lower....

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And a little play time produced this quilted effect, which was too heavy/deep and curved the piece of scrap, but i learned something.
I can now do quilting/embossing/flames.... in theory!

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That cheered me up a little after last weeks disaster!
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Old 07-08-2018, 05:34 PM   #2105
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Check out this guys beadroller setup
He upgraded to a new machine, but go back to page 15 to see his homemade setup that he had pretty good results with
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...1/index20.html
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Old 07-08-2018, 05:59 PM   #2106
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Pretty cool!
I look thru the whole thread.... great skills that guy has.

He started with what I did, an olf HF unit, altho we diverged somewhat...
Look back at Page 134 and 135 in this thread, to see my Bead roller progression.
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Old 07-11-2018, 04:15 PM   #2107
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Today, in the mail....
Wayneís unit(maybe that sounds odd?&#129315 and a 2.5l coolant overflow tank to replace the second plastic one!Click image for larger version

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Old 07-11-2018, 05:15 PM   #2108
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If that new tank is all metal, the coolant level sensor may or may not work as expected. The module detects conductance between one probe and the other in the plastic tank. The second probe is grounded to the frame.

It may be OK with a isolated probe to the module as in the original setup and have the tank grounded?
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Old 07-11-2018, 06:41 PM   #2109
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Thanks Wayne!
Yes, I still have the rubber isolated probes from the OEM tank attached to the wires, so I was planning to drill this tank and install those, in this one.
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