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Old 12-31-2015, 10:53 AM   #1667
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Steve, glad the trip went well!

I'm not convinced your fan clutch is working properly. In my 310 I don't recall hearing the fan at all. Once in a while on long grades and such I would hear fan noise for a little bit and then it would go away.

Have you replaced the fan clutch since you bought the motorhome?
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:32 AM   #1668
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My MH came with a solid mounted flex fan.
I recently swapped on the 7 blade fan from my '87 suburban, and the VC from that was new, and had maybe 500 miles on it. That's not to say its not bad, but I do have another around, that I might try once I am over these next few hurdles.

Wanted to put in writing my overview of driving it yesterday...

The new fuel sender, I cobbled together is working, but I think I will adjust it if I ever drop the tank again. With 20 gallon into the tank it read between E and 1/4. Adding another 25 gallons(45 total), had it reading between 1/4 and 1/2.
Interestingly, on the ride, I saw the "Low Fuel" light come on, when the needle got close to E on bumps. As there is no connection at the sender for it, I think it must be driven by the Ohm reading on the gauge /sender.

The voltage meter reads 14v, when cruising or anything above 1500rpm, but if I turn on the headlamps, it drops to 12.5 instantly, and if I leave them off, it fades to 12.0 after afew mins. Not good. I was wondering if its a headlamp issue or a charging issue... so while cruising at 50mph, I pushed the battery connect button, therefore connecting the House batteries to the charging circuit. Immediate drop to 12.0v. Either the Voltage regulator is not doing it job, or the alternator is toast. I have a new Transpo F-540XHD external VR on order.

Also, pushing the battery connect button, makes the "water in fuel" idiot light come on! Go figure?

All, it all, it drove well. The steering was pretty good, with no slack or wander. The ride with 75 psi in the front tires and 55psi in the airbags was awesome, and lacked the see-saw bounce I noted with the bags empty.
The brakes felt fine, but I will be going thru them later. I didn't have to use them hard, so I can only check that later.

While I was under the rear, trying to set the drive axle tire pressures, I could hear a air leak from the rear suspension... probably the airbags, that are old and cracked. I have replacements to hand.
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Old 12-31-2015, 11:49 AM   #1669
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
My MH came with a solid mounted flex fan.
I recently swapped on the 7 blade fan from my '87 suburban, and the VC from that was new, and had maybe 500 miles on it. That's not to say its not bad, but I do have another around, that I might try once I am over these next few hurdles.
I've read on various forums that not all fan clutches are created equal. I experienced that situation on my Ford F350 when I was doing a lot of towing. The original failed and the new replacements would kick in way to soon. I was never happy with aftermarket replacements. I went ahead and bought one of the ACDelco units that several have mentioned recently because their comments indicated that it works correctly. Once I received mine I found that it has Made in USA cast into it, that made me feel better

Quote:
The voltage meter reads 14v, when cruising or anything above 1500rpm, but if I turn on the headlamps, it drops to 12.5 instantly, and if I leave them off, it fades to 12.0 after afew mins. Not good. I was wondering if its a headlamp issue or a charging issue... so while cruising at 50mph, I pushed the battery connect button, therefore connecting the House batteries to the charging circuit. Immediate drop to 12.0v. Either the Voltage regulator is not doing it job, or the alternator is toast. I have a new Transpo F-540XHD external VR on order.
I assume you're talking about the dash volt meter. I experienced the same voltage drop on the 310 when turning lights on. Eventually it would drop to less than 12 on the dash gauge. I never had time to track it down. I never felt it was an alternator issue other than maybe it was undersized. The 310 had no LEDs except for the brake lights. If I'm not mistaken you've replaced all of yours with LEDs, right?

Quote:
Also, pushing the battery connect button, makes the "water in fuel" idiot light come on! Go figure?
Cool!

As we discussed take various voltage readings to see if any points read lower than others.
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Old 12-31-2015, 04:03 PM   #1670
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Will do Brad.
Documented all the above for my own benefit as well!
I have a photographic memory, but Kodak stopped making the film...

Today is wrapping up old storage, and moving my Dodge van...
Hopefully I can relax and have a beer tonight!

Range Rover looks like the ABS power relay failed, shutting off the power to the pump. Don't have a spare, and its special, so will get one ordered.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:08 AM   #1671
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post

The voltage meter reads 14v, when cruising or anything above 1500rpm, but if I turn on the headlamps, it drops to 12.5 instantly, and if I leave them off, it fades to 12.0 after afew mins. Not good. I was wondering if its a headlamp issue or a charging issue... so while cruising at 50mph, I pushed the battery connect button, therefore connecting the House batteries to the charging circuit. Immediate drop to 12.0v. Either the Voltage regulator is not doing it job, or the alternator is toast. I have a new Transpo F-540XHD external VR on order.

.
Sounds like you are describing the symptoms I had. Now, after replacing the alternator and the charge wire from the isolator (which is not an issue you have) I read a solid 14V at night, lit up like a christmas tree.
On a side note, I wish I had the temp of the old pan to compare to the Derale Pan. It appears that the tubing system is extremely efficient in cooling the trans down once in motion.
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Old 01-01-2016, 07:35 AM   #1672
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So what it amounts to is the alternator has to be able to put out enough current to keep up with the current being used. My 310 did the same thing but I never replaced the alternator to know for sure.

Makes sense though.
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Old 01-01-2016, 11:10 AM   #1673
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Or the VR is not controlling the alternator correctly. As stated, I think my alternator is a 100a unit which should be enough to keep the headlamps fed easily. The new VR is on its way, so we will see.
Good to hear you are happy with the trans pan. Yes, It would have been nice to have been able to compare. We are in a better place. I didn't get time to install my temp gauge, so I don't know how my temps were.
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Old 01-04-2016, 01:53 PM   #1674
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Storage is is all moved, and I can relax a little... I thought.
We got a good used ABS pump for the Range Rover, and I will be fitting that this week. The Subaru motor block is ready to rebuild. Its gonna be a busy month.

The Airstream is safe and tucked up, but I will be going out there to do a few things. I will not be able to work on the MH at the new storage as much as the old, as they are stricter. Working inside is ok they say.
The plan is to get into my box of TBI parts, and figure out what I have. Then I can rework the wiring harness on the bench, configure each item and its connector in advance. I will order new sensors and try to figure out what I will use for a fuel pump. At this time, its probably going to be an external inline pump. The injectors will either be replaced or go out for cleaning and flow matching. I even have a complete 454 I can use to mock up.

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Old 01-08-2016, 08:16 PM   #1675
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Fingers crossed, this cures my Voltage issues...

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Old 01-24-2016, 11:11 AM   #1676
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Have you had a chance to install the voltage regulator, if so what were the results?
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Old 01-24-2016, 11:45 AM   #1677
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Have you had a chance to install the voltage regulator, if so what were the results?
When I looked at the voltage regulator you purchased it states it is for a Ford. My assumption somewhere along the line either Chevy or Airstream changed the alternator to an external regulator because when I look up a P30 chassis it shows an internal voltage regulator.
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Old 01-24-2016, 12:01 PM   #1678
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I believe there was an alternator upgrade option for the Classics. The 86 345 I dismantled had a separate voltage regulator that I believe was original to the coach. I say that because of the paperwork that came along with the 345 seemed to indicate the external regulator was an upgrade.

I can't remember the name of the company that made the upgrade package but at the time I did some research and it seemed to be a common option.

Brad
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Old 01-24-2016, 12:18 PM   #1679
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Found a picture of the 345 alternator. The company is Lestek Inc.
Click image for larger version

Name:	86-345-lestek-alternator.jpg
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ID:	256196
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:18 PM   #1680
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Not yet Gunner, not been back to storage due to Obamacare deadlines(I am a Health Broker) and the GF's Range Rover brake issue, which has not turned out to be a simple fix... Surprise! So far we have replaced the ABS pump, ABS relay, ABS fuse and now the whole fusebox... Now awaiting more parts...
Also, the dreaded Subaru motor is back from the Machine shop and I am amassing parts/seals/gaskets ready for the rebuild.

I hope to get over there next week, and do that, and also get a photo of my wierd "Black Box" on my genset that I thought was normal, but clearly is not!
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