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Old 01-18-2011, 04:19 PM   #155
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So, I am gonna need new batteries AND to repair the tray!
With reference to Brad's thread here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...air-57991.html

I am not alone!

My thoughts were...
1/ Remove the tool storage area and move the Chassis battery to the front or rear(maybe fwd).
2/ Cut out all the rotton steelwork, and weld a stronger "dropped floor" in place.
3/ Replace the original drawer slides with some fresh 500lb rated slides.

Now, from what I see, the drawer is 9"D X 40"L X 16W(To bodyside curve).





I am trying to figure out what batteries to use, because they will dictate the depth.
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Old 01-18-2011, 05:41 PM   #156
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Key West , Florida
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The cheep ones are T-105 6volt. You will need 4 of them to have a good 3 days with out starting your gen if you plan on running your heat/lights etc. The down side is thy are heavy 62lb each or 248lb for the bank.
If money is no worry you could put in a Lithium Ion bank. I have used this company many times and I like there product "Thunder Sky". You will need to make some changes to your rig the big one is a charge control. The controller will run about $400+ the batteries $1,000 and smart charger $250++++.
I used some 2 year old gel batteries that were never used for the time being but plan on putting the Thunder sky in ares. I plan on having a stainless steel tank company make all new trays for ares. I found it to be the least expensive and best way to go 316ss so thy will be the last part of the rig to dissolve At a cost of about $120 per. Re using the front (the aluminum part).


T-105 batt

Thunder Sky
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Old 01-18-2011, 07:51 PM   #157
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We have two 29 series AGMs for house, and an Optima AGM(red) for the chassis, and plan to add two more 29s in the future...the AGM can be placed on its side, upside down, or conventional. When we took out the barrel chairs and the TV on the curbside, we reserved a 'potential' space behind the passenger seat. Since we have two Kyocera 130 solar panels, we should be able to stay off grid for quite awhile...I highly recommend solar. mike
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Old 01-19-2011, 09:25 AM   #158
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Thanks guys, good info!
Money is tight as I am out of work.
I plan to add solar at some time, so I want the ability to add batteries that have more capacity later. As I have to repair the battery tray, it makes sense to build in the depth I might need.
I think I will cut the tray bottom out just inboard of the flange where the steel is rivited to the "Rocker". Then I will weld an angle iron box below, with stiffening ribs.
Thought about making the floor a "drop in" with 1/4" diamond plate, so I clean/replace but how does that stand up to battery acid?
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Old 01-19-2011, 05:41 PM   #159
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I think you will have no problem using diamond plate for one the plate will stay dry under the batteries becuse of the diamond rigs. I would use baking soda every 6 months and wash out the tray. I have seen many boats used diamond plate for there batterie boxes, that is not to say I have not seen some vary badly pitted and mushy ones but that is what you get on a boat if you do not have good galvanic isolation.
I pill put a link to my wife's blog were there are some pics of the temp fix i did till we put the new stainless one in.
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Old 01-20-2011, 10:51 AM   #160
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Thanks, I am thinking to build a frame of angle iron, and weld it to the steelwork, then make a drop in tray that I could take out. Tray would be secured by a few of ST screws.

Oh, Anyone know where I can find some thick rubber to replace my missing front bumper over-rider strips?

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Old 02-02-2011, 08:21 PM   #161
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Found rubber on McMaster Carr.... So unless anyone has other suggestions, will get it there!

Life is never dull in my home...
Teenage kids never learn....
Yeeeeh!
I know, lets drive my Honda Accord offroad at speed...
Until I find a waiting rock...
Oooppps!



Oh, and then lets keep driving it and ignore the oil smoke and warning lamps until the Motor is toast!

Used Motor swap...






And back in again...


Just in case anyone thinks I am being lazy with my Airstream work!
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:31 PM   #162
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Job done!

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Old 02-06-2011, 09:25 AM   #163
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Good job, Hope she runs good
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Old 02-06-2011, 10:04 AM   #164
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Yep, Started first time!



Felt good, I have not worked on anything this modern!
I had to drop the whole assy out the bottom of the car, while it was raised on my Kwicklift... There is a massive subframe below the motor that supports it and all the suspension too... So a ton more disassembly than I realized!
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:56 PM   #165
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Now that thing is smooth running with a miller on it and it is not even foaming!
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Old 02-07-2011, 08:06 AM   #166
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Seems to run fine, and hope to get it out of my hair today!
My house move last year cost me a lot of lost time...
I have a backlog of stuff holding me up!

I found this stunning 1991 190E 2.6 for my Daughter, with 88k miles from new.
Just needed fluids and some hoses changed.




Check out how clean the Engine internals are for 20 years!



Refinished the peeling Valve cover


Now this looks much better...


Put Euro headlamps in to replace the horrible US style plastic units..


On my Airstream, now just waiting for my 500lb Drawer slides to arrive for the Genset and battery tray projects!
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Old 02-07-2011, 10:17 AM   #167
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Keyair are you plan on having your gen slide out to work on it? What about the muffler system are you going to have to disconnect it each time to open? Those clamp fittings on it are a real pain I just put a new muffler on mine.
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:01 AM   #168
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Yes, thats the plan.
As I stated a while back, I had as bad oil leak from the Kholer unit... its where the oil drain and dipstick pipe enters the crank case. The whole bottom plate is an oily gritty disaster, and also all of the insulation is a crumbly mess. I will have to pull the unit out to do the job properly.



Brad did the slides job, so following his lead here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...eak-64381.html

From what I see, I would have to release the 2 downpipe clamps(The Kohler is a twin cyl) before the unit would slide out(Mine keep falling off anyway!).


Its not possible to unscrew the pipe from the crankcase due to the oil drain oulet hitting the engine mount, but I plan to do away with that and have the oil drain on the outside.


I need to replace the fuel line and filter anyway, and might have to extend or disconnect electrical wires.
It seems a small amount of work now for making future work easier.
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