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Old 11-29-2015, 12:12 PM   #1471
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Thanks for that Chiefair... That looks like mine should look like!
I am gonna follow this diagram that I got from someone a few years back.


Question for you Chiefair...
That motor had a Edelbrock intake on it???
Did it have the Banks kit on, as I have the same intake and was worried about doghouse clearance...


Yup Peter... a plastic filter as well!

I am planning to move the filter off the engine but for now I want to get the motor running.
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Old 11-29-2015, 02:37 PM   #1472
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It did have an Edelbrock but no Banks kit. Now it has a Banks kit but no Edelbrock so I can't give you a definitive answer.

I barely clear with the 502, a GM aluminum intake and a Holley 850. I used the GM air filter bottom housing with a 1" spacer so it would clear the float bowls on the Holley and the Banks top cover.

I think yours, with a Quadrajet (so you don't need the spacer) should clear.


1982 310 motorhome 454
Henniker New Hampshire
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:17 PM   #1473
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Ok, we will see!

I installed the OEM Quadrajet and now working through installing the missing smog gear.
It is a PITA... there are fragile plastic temp valves that go in the thermostat housing and on the front of the engine, and its like brain surgery... with big wrenches. Some of the parts are NLA, or info on them is scant.

Installed the replacement Carter mechanical fuel pump.
So, removed the passenger side heat shield, and brought it home to derust/paint, so if anyone needs dimensions, shout... its a flat piece of steel.

This gave me better access to the fuel pump, which went on quiet easy, EXCEPT for that darned fuel pump rod... what a pig that is!

Done.


While I was hot air riser , that feeds the thermac went on.


You would think it would line up with the air filter... Um, no.

So, the engine is running, and I am working on the carb tuning... love the way every adjustment on this carb is hidden AND inaccessible!

So, I moved on to drain the transmission and remove the pan...
Oh, what fun THAT is..
There is ONE bolt right at the rear, that due to its proximity to the transmission X member is a "one flat at a time" bolt.
I dropped the horrible stock pan... and slopped fluid everywhere, as normal.



It looks clean in there!
Not seen here is the filter... which was flopping around loose on its mounting bolt

The fluid looks and smells ok... and there was a normal amount of friction material sitting on the floor of the pan, but I am glad I changed it, as the loose filter concerned me. Note to the left of the pickup tube is, what I believe to be a piece of filter material...



Closer pic.
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Old 11-30-2015, 07:21 PM   #1474
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When I got home, my Derale pan was here!
YAY!



As promised Brad, here is a pic I took some pics of the only markings on my sender...



Earned my cold beer today!
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Old 11-30-2015, 08:00 PM   #1475
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That transmission fluid certainly is clean. Not knowing much about automatic transmissions I don't know if bits like that should be in the pan. My first thought would be no probably not

From what I've read about Teleflex sending units the 029 seems to indicate a 160-320 degree code R 1/8" npt . Not sure about the 304 but I'll do some poking around tomorrow.

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:44 AM   #1476
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Glad to help Brad.

Can someone lead me to some solid info on changing the rear airbags on the 345?
The bottom bolts look easy to access but I am concerned about the top bolts and air fittings. If cutting the bathroom floor is the way to go, then I'm up for that.
I also found the air compressor is not running. I used my Powerprobe to provide power to it directly(gotta love that 30' lead!) And it started, so clearly a power feed issue. Maybe a fuse in the main feed went. Finding it is the fun part!

The Derale trans pan will go on today hopefully, but oddly I cannot find the temp gauge plug that's supposed to be included... Good job I have a temp sender for that hole!
Interestingly I was surprised to note how beefy it is, and that the cooling tubes are not just clear, but have cooling vanes inside!
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Old 12-01-2015, 08:58 AM   #1477
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Glad to help Brad.

Can someone lead me to some solid info on changing the rear airbags on the 345?
The bottom bolts look easy to access but I am concerned about the top bolts and air fittings. If cutting the bathroom floor is the way to go, then I'm up for that.
If you were dealing with a 310 I could give you some guidance. On the 345 that I dismantled I removed the shell and then the floor before dealing with the air bags

I'm sure someone will have a better method than mine, although my method probably provides the easiest access

Quote:
I also found the air compressor is not running. I used my Powerprobe to provide power to it directly(gotta love that 30' lead!) And it started, so clearly a power feed issue. Maybe a fuse in the main feed went. Finding it is the fun part!
Since your's is an 84 I'm guessing it's wired like an 84 310. Assuming that's the case there is going to be a long yellow (at least I think its yellow) wire running from the compressor cutoff switch up to the Chevy fuse block. The wire is either 10 or 12 gauge. On the 310 the connection was melted at the fuse block which obviously kept the compressor from working. To fix I added a relay back in the compartment where the compressor is and configured the yellow wire to energize the relay coil and then ran an 8 gauge wire from the generator starter solenoid in the generator compartment over to the compressor relay. The 8 gauge wire went to one side of a NO contact with the other side going to the compressor itself.

Somewhere I have a sketch but I can't seem to lay my hands on it right now.

Quote:
The Derale trans pan will go on today hopefully, but oddly I cannot find the temp gauge plug that's supposed to be included... Good job I have a temp sender for that hole!
Interestingly I was surprised to note how beefy it is, and that the cooling tubes are not just clear, but have cooling vanes inside!
I'll have to check my packaging to see if the plug came with mine. Not that I need it...
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Old 12-01-2015, 10:26 AM   #1478
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My MH has panel below the steering column with 2 manual switches, one for the electric fuel pump and the other is for the air pump. This energizes the solenoid next to the pump... Not sure if that is stock.
I will be over later today, and try to figure out if it is a power feed issue or a energize feed issue.. or indeed a problem with the solenoid...
I do hear it click when I provide power to one of the smaller contacts, but no pump start... when I provided power to one of the main feed lugs, the pump started, but was not getting a power signal on the other. This leads me to think its a power feed from the main power source.
It was working, so I don't know why its not now... maybe a fuse or corroded terminal somewhere.
Have some HoneyDo stuff until after 2pm, so it will be a short visit today.
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Old 12-01-2015, 02:31 PM   #1479
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My MH has panel below the steering column with 2 manual switches, one for the electric fuel pump and the other is for the air pump. This energizes the solenoid next to the pump... Not sure if that is stock.
Sure doesn't sound stock to me. At least my 84 310 wasn't configured that way.

Quote:
I will be over later today, and try to figure out if it is a power feed issue or a energize feed issue.. or indeed a problem with the solenoid...
I do hear it click when I provide power to one of the smaller contacts, but no pump start... when I provided power to one of the main feed lugs, the pump started, but was not getting a power signal on the other. This leads me to think its a power feed from the main power source.
Your description has me somewhat confused. I'm wondering if your're using the term solenoid when it might actually be a relay. If you're hearing something click it sounds to me like the relay is energizing telling the pump to start but it's not starting. There is a good possibility of a burnt contact in the relay.

Quote:
It was working, so I don't know why its not now... maybe a fuse or corroded terminal somewhere.
Have some HoneyDo stuff until after 2pm, so it will be a short visit today.
Corrosion possibly but I'm betting on a burnt contact.
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Old 12-01-2015, 06:51 PM   #1480
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Honeydo's took longer than I thought so I didnt make it to storage today...
I did however rebuild my fuel tank sender from a $22 universal 90ohm sender and assemble it to my tank...

Done and done.


Installed.


Full description here... Page 4.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...it-143071.html

Took me ages to find this one photo I took of my Compressor and wires!
For orientation, this is in the very rearmost RH or passenger side bedroom cupboard looking forward.



Pump is, I believe is a 12V Gast 3HBB... http://www.gastmfg.com/product_detai...oductTypeID=23

In the foreground left is the electrical thing i called a solenoid...
With the ignition on, and my dash switch on, I get power to the smaller LH white wire and the unit clicks.
I assume I should have power to the larger red wire coming in from the right side, but I read nothing.
If I supply power to the LH red wire the pump starts.
Guess I will have to trace the power line...

Now the gas tank is ready to go back in, I thought I better get the ugly tank straps cleaned up.
One done... 2 to go!
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Old 12-01-2015, 07:53 PM   #1481
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Took me ages to find this one photo I took of my Compressor and wires!
For orientation, this is in the very rearmost RH or passenger side bedroom cupboard looking forward.



Pump is, I believe is a 12V Gast 3HBB... 3H - Gast

In the foreground left is the electrical thing i called a solenoid...
Yep, that's a solenoid....relay

In the world I work in a solenoid is typically a valve with an electric coil that you energize to open (or close) the valve. However in the automotive world a solenoid is typically a relay. Go figure!

As an aside your pump and solenoid arrangement is identical to the 86 345 that I dismantled. I still have that solenoid assembly sitting on the shelf.

Quote:
With the ignition on, and my dash switch on, I get power to the smaller LH white wire and the unit clicks.
I assume I should have power to the larger red wire coming in from the right side, but I read nothing.
If I supply power to the LH red wire the pump starts.
Guess I will have to trace the power line...
Based on the size of the solenoid I would be surprised if the contacts are burnt but it's still a possibility. You're correct the red wire on the right should be hot all the time. With luck it's fused and the fuse has blown. That red wire is most likely coming from your battery compartment.

Brad
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:00 PM   #1482
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Cranking day at storage...
Got my Dodge Van up and running, by replacing the fuel pump and flushing the fuel tank. Now good to go... I hope.

Then moved over to the AS.
Cleaned up the transmission X member that was a greaseball mess. Maybe I have a tail shaft leak... nothing on the parking brake, but I am watching it now.
Thought I would start with the Derale trans pan swap.

Firstly, ignore my dumb statement that my temp sender plug was missing... it was stuck firmly to the pan drain plug magnet!

I bolted up the new filter, and added washers to make mount the filter properly!
Offered the pan up..
Fail.
The rear of the new pan fouls the flange of the transmission X-member by at least 1/4"
The stock pan is shallower, and also has a relieved area. I will post pics tomorrow when I am not so exhausted!
Looking at the old trans fluid in the drain pan in the sunlight, I can see some metallic flakes too... maybe normal/nothing, but we will see.

That plan thwarted, I moved on to this air suspension compressor issue.
Using my wonderful Powerprobe 3, I turned on the ignition and compressor switch... and checked the contacts.
I can confirm, I have power at the energizing lead, and the relay works fine.
I do NOT have main feed power to start the compressor tho.
I traced this main feed wire from the compressor. It dives down through the floor, and under the MH. It emerges rearward of the pass side rear compartment, and into a conduit that runs along the RH chassis rail, until it disappears under behind the grey tank/Tag axle... at this point, I lost it...
I followed the chassis rail forward, but its not there. Have to assume it crossed over to the LH rail for now.
I looked at the Airstream Owners manual, and it says the power for the "Levelers and Rear Air Suspension" is fed from "F" in the fuse block.
Looked there, and there is nothing mounted! I hate electrics, and need to research more...
Moved on to fuel tank prep.
I am in the mode of cleaning/painting anything that is accessible as remove stuff... I have prepped and painted the chassis rails behind each storage/battery drawer as I went along. So while the fuel tank was out, its a good time.

Before:



After:


Just satin black rustoleum.

All for today.
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:11 PM   #1483
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...

That plan thwarted, I moved on to this air suspension compressor issue.
Using my wonderful Powerprobe 3, I turned on the ignition and compressor switch... and checked the contacts.
I can confirm, I have power at the energizing lead, and the relay works fine.
I do NOT have main feed power to start the compressor tho.
I traced this main feed wire from the compressor. It dives down through the floor, and under the MH. It emerges rearward of the pass side rear compartment, and into a conduit that runs along the RH chassis rail, until it disappears under behind the grey tank/Tag axle... at this point, I lost it...
I followed the chassis rail forward, but its not there. Have to assume it crossed over to the LH rail for now.
I looked at the Airstream Owners manual, and it says the power for the "Levelers and Rear Air Suspension" is fed from "F" in the fuse block.
Looked there, and there is nothing mounted! I hate electrics, and need to research more...
Steve, many of us have taken the main power lead for the compressor out of the GM fuseblock and added a FUSED 8 gauge (in my case) wire directly to the motor battery.
It's simple enough and I may even switch it to the coach batteries, since all the GM stuff is overloaded as is.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:18 PM   #1484
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I think that has been done Peter, but I am not finding where it is moved to yet...
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