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Mike Leary · 05-08-2010, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmpro

My door hinges were worn down from 25 plus years of use, and rather than replace the hinge, I raised the door up to its original height and installed "C" clips that I had bought at the hardware store.

Thank you, I've had hinge wear problems, too.

GlenCoombe · 05-09-2010, 06:01 AM

Mike the C-clip idea seems a good one. How many did you manage to squeeze into the openings of the hinges? Do you think they will stay in place? Were you able to apply them with a c-clip plier or just pop them in around the hinge pin?

Can you share some photos of the clips and application of them please?

kmpro · 05-12-2010, 03:28 PM

Glen
I lifted the door up and put one clip in each of the two hinges. I tapped them in with a ballpeen hammer and and a punch. Started them with the hammer and finished with the punch to seat them. Seeems to work ok, but I got some extras to carry with me just in case.

Mike

GlenCoombe · 05-12-2010, 05:05 PM

Mike, I actually tried somewhat the same a while back with some nylon washers that I put a split into. They tended to work their way out.

I can imagine the spring steel of a C-clip having enough tension on the pin to hold up. No pun intended.

Let us know what happens as this is a logical solution to the drooping door syndrome.

Mike Leary · 05-12-2010, 05:10 PM

I'll try it, the option is not interesting.

kmpro · 05-26-2010, 09:32 AM

One of my C clips popped out and I had to re-install it, but it seems to be holding OK for now. Better than the alternative, for sure. I replaced the shower door in the 310 with one from Irvine Door and Shade. Not exactly made for the thin shower door facings, but after some modification and pop rivets and silicone it was a usable shower door for the 310.

Mike

ScrapIrony-2 · 05-26-2010, 10:40 AM

I have used nylon washers modified into c-clips with a wire cutter...flex AND user friendly.
We replaced our frequently failing shower door with a shower curtain on a spring-loaded rod.
Also have a clear shower curtain to close off the front seats when parked(less to heat or cool), and it serves well for traveling, using the dash heat/cooling for comfort without trying to regulate the whole unit...ok, it looks...uhm...tacky, but it does work...anyone out there remember folding aluminum foil onto the rabbit ears of your black and white tv? ok, maybe I oughta shut up, now...m

kmpro · 05-27-2010, 10:51 AM

I have installed Fantastic Vents in almost every RV I have owned and the 1984 310 is now no exception. I started after lunch thinking that this would be at best a 2 hour project on the Silver Hornet. Boy, was I ever in for a surprise! It seems the great minds at Airstream did not own a tape measure, since the vent from the factory was not centered properly. Not only that, but the opening was from 12 1/2 " to 14 1/4" the factory had put in the roof. This was found out after using the Dremel tool to grind off rivet heads to remove a vent that I would have deemed a piece of crap from the get-go. AS was not putting out their best during the 1980's goes without saying. Beatrice foods did'nt help the AS image at all. The good news: Fantastic Vent still puts out a high quality product that makes you proud to own. After installing the vent, the portion that mounts inside perfectly matched the curve in the AS ceiling, giving it a nice finished look inside. It's nice having a vent I can control with a remote while sitting on the sofa too. Certainly this is a great addition to the AS Classic as far as I am concerned.

Mike

gloran · 05-28-2010, 09:16 AM

Mike, I also just switched out my loud, deteriorating bathroom fan with a Fantastic Vent fan. And previous to that I upgraded the main Fantastic with the upgraded remote model, very nice unit. I agree with you their products are top notch, and their customer service and helpful advice is also Fantasti,so nice to deal with. Their products are a great addition to any unit.

Randy

choctawmel · 06-01-2010, 06:40 PM

I replace the rear vent with a Fantastic vent. Did require some metal work. And AS had wiring that hugged the old vent very tight, but all worked and it is good. Do need to look at replacing the head and shower vents, just blow the fan blade on the one in the head.
mel

kmpro · 06-03-2010, 02:07 PM

Well with the help of Brad Kahler and others I have changed the wiring in the Silver Hornet to that of a Motorhome rather than a Half trailer Half Motorhome like it was wired by AS. Now I can use the microwave and the front Air Conditioner at the same time. I can plug into a park and run both air conditioners on shore power too. And the Microwave too. Took some doing, but well worth the trouble. Yippee! A Real Motorhome with 2 usable air conditioners and a microwave.

Mike

choctawmel · 06-08-2010, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmpro

Well with the help of Brad Kahler and others I have changed the wiring in the Silver Hornet to that of a Motorhome rather than a Half trailer Half Motorhome like it was wired by AS. Now I can use the microwave and the front Air Conditioner at the same time. I can plug into a park and run both air conditioners on shore power too. And the Microwave too. Took some doing, but well worth the trouble. Yippee! A Real Motorhome with 2 usable air conditioners and a microwave.

Mike

Good for you! You need to draw up a diagram of what you did and put it in your manuals. I rewired Silver Bullet with a second shore some time back, then this year I rewired it again to a 50A plug. The selector rotary switch still controls the microwave/front A/C. I also put a 50A female plug to the output of the generator which I use to power the house when the power company's lights go out.
If/when I replace the cook-top, I will replace it with an cook-top/gas oven model. But right now, that's not very high on my bucket list.
mel

ScrapIrony-2 · 06-08-2010, 08:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by choctawmel

Good for you! You need to draw up a diagram of what you did and put it in your manuals. I rewired Silver Bullet with a second shore some time back, then this year I rewired it again to a 50A plug. The selector rotary switch still controls the microwave/front A/C. I also put a 50A female plug to the output of the generator which I use to power the house when the power company's lights go out.
If/when I replace the cook-top, I will replace it with an cook-top/gas oven model. But right now, that's not very high on my bucket list.
mel

Have you ever considered microwave/convection oven...? Our old(REALLY old) one died last year, and after an extensive search, we found another one that fit the dimensions...Sharp <Grill 2 CONVECTION>...can't do a turkey(can't in the Dometic oven, either), but it's a really nice thing to have...the conventional oven has become storage, and when I figure out how to remove it, it will become more pantry...m

kmpro · 06-13-2010, 11:39 PM

While at the 4CU Restoration Rally wonderful stuff happened to the Silver Hornet. The PO had run into a tree limb and put two ugly dents in the roof over the Driver/Passenger area up front. These were about 18" in diameter and really detracted from the looks of my unit. With the help of a fellow Airstreamer at the rally, both of the unsightly dents were removed and now the Silver Hornet is much more presentable. What a difference!!! The Bauxite Bus is beautiful once more!

Mike

xtphreak · 06-16-2010, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GlenCoombe

O.K. somebody feel free to jump in and tell me I'm wrong...

You put stainless (hard metal) into your aluminum (very soft metal) window frames.

I think it is safe to say that the next time this job has to be done it will be necessary to do it with a larger diameter screw due to the galvanic corrosion that you've just set up. The softer metal with be sacrificial and though it may take more time than you'll spend with your coach I believe the dissimilar metals are not the best idea.

Also I don't think the corrosion will be even so it is likely only one or two holes will open up due to this process.

Now the real question on this process begs to be asked. Can a sacrificial anode be placed somewhere on the skin to minimize the action of the dissimilar metals and direct it to the anode(s).

Inquiring minds.......

ummm
new lurker, looking to get into an '88 345 in the next week or so ... lotsa good info in here.

now GlenCoombe, you asked me to do it
so here it is, politely offered

you're wrong

look at http://www.cmiengineer.com/whitepape..._corrosion.pdf

and on the last page, you'll see
"...Use stainless steel fasteners. If stainless steel is not an option, use HDG fasteners. ...'

It's not the "softness of the metal" that causes the galvanic interaction, it's which metal is the anode vs. cathode and the relative amount of each.

Aluminum instantly forms aluminum oxide on any cut surface, which prevents further corrosion to the aluminum, unless the pH is very high or low.

Some metals tend to attract electrons (usually less dense metals) from other metals (like steel), which leaves the steel in a state that more easily bonds with oxygen = rust on the steel bolt, not the aluminum.

That's why you see rusty steel screws and not eaten up rotten aluminum in this situation.

To prevent this, use a more similar metal washer, coat the threads with an insulating coating and per a Locktite rep's postings who's on ADVRider.com, a thread coating that prevents oxygen from getting into the interfaces in the threads between the two dissimilar metals ... like Locktite!

Basically, stainless is your best choice for fasteners in aluminum if you can't use aluminum fasteners.

dljosephson · 06-16-2010, 07:18 PM

xtphreak has it right, stainless fasteners are OK on aluminum. See MIL-STD-889 http://www.wbdg.org/ccb/FEDMIL/std889b.pdf which reminds that "A small anodic area relative to the cathodic area should be avoided. The same metal or more noble (cathodic) should be utilized for small fasteners and bolts. The larger is the relative anode area, the lower the galvanic current density on the anode, the lesser the attack..." Aluminum is more anodic, stainless is more cathodic. That's why stainless hardware on aluminum Airstreams (and aircraft) works, but not aluminum hardware on stainless.

dljosephson · 06-16-2010, 11:21 PM

As far as history and experience goes, I should also add that the solar panel on my Tradewind has been happily held on with stainless bolts and sheet-metal screws, which have not corroded appreciably in the 7 years they've been a half-mile from the ocean. In aircraft applications, regular steel screws rust pretty quickly where the cad plate has worn off, but stainless stays bright (although in many cases the stainless isn't OK because it's not as strong as regular steel).

kmpro · 06-24-2010, 01:41 PM

So far, so good. I don't see any problem with the SS screws yet, and at least they are shiny and not rusted. Best I can research, there will be no problem.

Mike

kmpro · 06-24-2010, 02:02 PM

The Silver Hornet strikes again. On the way back from Albuquerque, the compressor that powers the rear air suspension went South and we were heading North. I am in process of installing a Firestone compressor in hopes this will resurrect the air bag system. Gad, this vintage thing is fun! Not! The compressor compartment is not your handy place to work by any means. I hope this will keep us going for at least a week before something new shows up.

Mike

kmpro · 06-26-2010, 03:00 PM

The Silver Hornet Rolls On !! With a new compressor for the air suspension, we are on the road again. We left Ute Park, NM bound for Red River NM over Bobcat Pass (Elev 9280) and we made it without a hitch. Engine temp went up to 230 degrees but Aux Fans held that until we topped out on the pass. What a great deal not having to pull in a campground and get out the tools to rebuild the Silver Hornet. KNOCK ON WOOD !!! Good news was that our compressor was $ 235.00 compared to the $ 888.00 AS wanted. It pays to shop people!

Mike