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Old 05-19-2013, 09:18 AM   #1
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1984 310 Cruise Control Replacement

I figure it's probably time that I document the replacement of the original Dana cruise control system in the 310. The original system failed a couple of years ago for no obvious reason. I replace a few parts that I could lay my hands on but no luck. So I finally went shopping for a replacement system and settled on the Rostra 250-1223 setup. I'm not certain but Rostra may have bought out the Dana product line because the cruise control stalk, speed sensor (pulse generator) and the linkage arrangement are virtually identical.

I bought the following Rostra products:

250-1223 - servo control system (approximately $185)
250-2032 - control stalk (identical to original) (approximately $35)
250-4153 - control VSS speed sensor (buy only if yours is bad) (approximately $65)

One thing to keep in mind is the Rostra cruise control system will not work with LED brake lights so you have to add a relay into the circuit to provide a clean ground signal to the cruise control servo. Not difficult to do and the relays are only a few bucks. Also I removed the original cruise control brake switch completely. It has a vacuum line running to it and I just felt it was cleaner to remove it entirely and tap into the actual brake light switch instead.

The servo module was relatively easy to mount. I just bolted it to one of the clips on the side of the doghouse framework. The original module was bolted to the A/C compressor which I thought was a bad idea

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The linkage connected to the same spot as the original and the cable even clamped in the same spot using the same hardware. For reference I used one bead in the cable. You'll understand what that means once you start the installation.

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Here's a picture of the relay that I added, the connector for the stalk and one of the two fuses that are required. It's not the cleanest installation but there isn't a whole lot of leeway when wiring under the dash. It's a rats nest and anything you add generally just adds to that.

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And here's the new replacement stalk. It has two setscrews on the back side that you use to hold it to the original turn signal shaft.

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If you have any questions feel free to contact me, who knows I might even remember something about it

Brad
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:07 AM   #2
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1984 31' Airstream310
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I am replacing our CC. Did you use a 250-2032 - control stalk or a 250-3032? I can not find the 250-2032.

Thanks, Johnny
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Old 07-18-2013, 07:18 AM   #3
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Oops, sorry about that Johnny!

You are correct it is supposed to be 250-3032. Here is a link to the one I bought.

Rostra cruise control stalk

Brad
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:52 AM   #4
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In the original Cruise control what was the function of the vacuum line in the brake switch?
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Old 07-18-2013, 10:56 AM   #5
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I don't know for certain but if I was to hazard a guess I would say it was actually a vacuum dump switch. Depress the foot brake pedal and the vacuum line is open to atmosphere which would I would think would immediately drop out the cruise control.

Hopefully someone that knows for certain will chime in.

Brad
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Old 07-18-2013, 12:10 PM   #6
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Most of the 1960s to early 1980s era cruise controls were electric over vacuum. The throttle control was a vacuum actuator with a fairly long throw that incorporated two solenoid valves. One solenoid valve would apply throttle by connecting the actuator chamber to engine vacuum, and the other would release throttle by venting it to the atmosphere.

The aftermarket systems, like the Dana one you removed, typically had a combined assembly that mounted on the brake pedal that would both send an electrical "cancel" signal to the controller and open a mechanical valve that would vent the actuator to the atmosphere as a fail safe in the event that any of the electrical components failed.

Usually the switch/valve assembly was mounted on the brake pedal and kept in the "cruise" position by a little ball-type chain of the kind used on pull switches. On automatic transmission cars the other end was attached to the firewall. On manual transmission cars, it looped through a guide on the firewall and was attached to the clutch pedal so that depressing either pedal would cancel cruise.

Newer systems use an electric stepper motor and an electromechanical fail-safe clutch.
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Old 07-18-2013, 02:35 PM   #7
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Jammer,

Good description.

So I was at least close on how the vacuum switch functioned!
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Old 03-19-2016, 08:02 AM   #8
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Someone recently asked about how I added a relay for the cruise control if you're using LEDs for brake lights. Some cruise control systems don't work if you switch regular incandescent bulbs for LEDs. Using google I found several examples of how to fix the problem. Here's a sketch of the method I chose to use.

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Brad
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Old 04-28-2016, 09:16 PM   #9
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Is anyone running a King Cruise system?

Since I am running a 6BT Diesel, My vacuum supply is non-existent, and I am going to assume the cruise bits went out with the 454, This system looks pricy but robust to me.

http://www.cruisecontrolking.com/
http://trekteks.com/2500rv.aspx
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:48 AM   #10
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The Rostra system that I installed doesn't use vacuum, it's electronic servo controlled. It should work just fine on a diesel rig.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:19 AM   #11
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My 310TD has the Rostra after market cruise control also. So far so good, no problems. A little slow to engage but works great.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:24 AM   #12
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The Rostra unit I have is probably 8-9 yrs old but if you would like the model number I can get it later today.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
My 310TD has the Rostra after market cruise control also. So far so good, no problems. A little slow to engage but works great.
Mike, there are tuning parameters (dip switch settings) that you can tweak that might help with the engagement. I didn't notice my old 310 have any engagement problems when I swapped it over and I have the same system in my Triumph TR6 and there are zero engagement issues. I can click the Set button and don't notice any lag.

Brad
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Old 04-29-2016, 07:25 AM   #14
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Hmmmmmm, well one more thing I didnt know. Ive a pretty significant lag time between pushing the set button and engagement. That control box on the firewall kinda scares me to me mess with. Is that where the adjustments are made? Inside the black box? Ill see if I can find a manual for it. I would say that I have a good 5 seconds or more before it kicks in. Thanks for the info Brad, other than that it works real well.
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