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Old 05-04-2016, 07:18 PM   #29
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Mike, the chain slack can have a big impact on how fast it respond when you set the speed. I'd take care of the slack first and then change dip switch settings if need be. The longer the chain slack the longer it takes the servo to reel in the cable to where it actually moves the throttle shaft.

On my old 310 the settings for gain are:

1 = off
2 - on

For engine setup:

7 = off
8 = off
9 = on

Good luck!


Brad
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Old 05-04-2016, 08:28 PM   #30
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Thats my thinking too Brad. I looked at the chain slack today and it seems very loose. I was able to tighten it by one bead without cutting it. I dont want to cut the chain until Im pretty confident thats the solution. I think Ill wait till after the get together before I do that. In the mean time I will double check the settings. It looks to me that the gain and the engine set can also affect the lag time or slow surge. Ill take a look at those in the morning.
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:45 AM   #31
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Before cutting the chain I would try dip switch changes. It's really easy to flip the dip switch back the way it was if it didn't help. Adding a bead back on the chain not so easy
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Old 05-05-2016, 08:48 AM   #32
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Looks like my settings can be changed to help resolve the lag time for engagement. Currently my "gain" is set to mid and my "engine set-up timer" is set to low. I think Ill start by resetting the engine set-up timer to high. I really appreciate your help here Brad. I really had no idea about these switch settings, I assumed it was in the linkage. (Which still may need shortened)

It reads to me that I need to turn #12, control switch, off, ignition to off, reset switches then control switch back on. Ill try to find some more info before I start though. I dont want to risk driving to Penn Wood without cruise, two hip replacements makes for sore driving without cruise.

Mike
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:35 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
Looks like my settings can be changed to help resolve the lag time for engagement. Currently my "gain" is set to mid and my "engine set-up timer" is set to low. I think Ill start by resetting the engine set-up timer to high. I really appreciate your help here Brad. I really had no idea about these switch settings, I assumed it was in the linkage. (Which still may need shortened)

It reads to me that I need to turn #12, control switch, off, ignition to off, reset switches then control switch back on. Ill try to find some more info before I start though. I dont want to risk driving to Penn Wood without cruise, two hip replacements makes for sore driving without cruise.

Mike
Mike, it sounds like you're talking about dip switch 12 and turning it off.

I might have misinterpreted what you're describing but just in case, the steps required to make changes to the dips switches is to slide the on/off switch on the control stalk to off, turn the ignition off and then make the changes you want to the dip switches and then go for another test drive.

I got this from the installation manual:

NOTE 3: If any of the twelve (12) switches need to
be changed after installation of the GlobalCruise,
the control switch and the vehicle ignition must be
in the OFF position; this is to allow the
GlobalCruise to RESET.


Brad
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:41 PM   #34
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Ahhhhhhh, ok. Well thats essentially what I did, and diconnected the negative battery cable. Their instructions were a little vague, they call #12 a control switch. But, I did turn off the cruise control also. So, I think I should be ok. Have to road test still.
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:12 PM   #35
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#12 is where you tell the cruise control module what type of control switch that you have installed. There are two types, open and closed. Not sure what you have but you shouldn't have to touch #12 since your cruise control is working properly as far as operatino goes.

You also don't need to disconnect the battery. The main thing is they don't want you driving and making a dip switch change at the same time
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:20 PM   #36
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Thanks Brad. Well hopefully I didnt screw it up!!!!
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Old 05-05-2016, 01:28 PM   #37
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This is where I saw to disconnect the battery before making changes in switch settings. Oh well.



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Old 05-05-2016, 01:40 PM   #38
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Well that's interesting! I had not noticed that little blurb before.

I can't say that I've ever had problems with the dip switch setting changes taking effect, but when I was working on both vehicles (Triumph and 310) I was doing a lot of different things at the same time and frequently disconnected the batteries for a variety of reasons.

Sounds to me like you should follow the note and disconnect the battery. When I finish the Rostra install in my Argosy I'll have to test disconnecting the battery and not disconnecting the battery to see if it really makes a difference.

Thanks for pointing that out!

Brad
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:37 PM   #39
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Just finished our first leg to Penn. the switch changes made all the difference. Thanks for the help Brad. It engages immediately now!!!! What a great improvement.

Mike
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Old 05-11-2016, 04:50 PM   #40
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Good deal! It's always nice when things work the way they are supposed too
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Old 05-12-2016, 11:10 PM   #41
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Brad, I will pester you about cruise control and LEDS a bit when you get here. Cruise works until I turn on lights.
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Old 05-13-2016, 11:13 AM   #42
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I have seen crazy things happen in terms of EMI.
I have seen HID lights shut off running engines and many other issues. Ferrite Cores can be used to block electromagnetic spikes in many cases. the closer you can put them to the noise source, the better. I have had 100% success in blocking EMI noise from switching power supplies from HID and LED lights as well as a multitude noise induced issues.

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/pa...PTMaAluf8P8HAQ

There are lots of places to buy them, they are cheep and easy to use, and they work.
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