Replacing rear lights on 75 Argosy HELP

[Sweatpants]

Pretend I don’t know anything about wiring lights ( I really don’t) my 75 Argosy has bare wires sticking out where the rear lights should be. Four holes, one with 4 wires, one with three wires, and the two outer ones have two wires. The wires on the outside are one green and one white. One tail light has two black, one white, and one yellow, the other tail light has one black, one white, and one yellow. The new cans have one yellow and one brown wire. So how do I do it? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[pappysnap]

Do you have a 12V Test light? Pep boys or any auto parts store. Plug the 7 pln into the tow vehicle and then turn on the lights. Use the tester to find which one of the wires is getting voltage. That’s your marker lights feed. Then do left turn sig. and test to see which wire is blinking, then right, then brakes. Make sure your test light has a good ground.

[TG Twinkie]

Originally Posted by pappysnap

Do you have a 12V Test light? Pep boys or any auto parts store. Plug the 7 pln into the tow vehicle and then turn on the lights. Use the tester to find which one of the wires is getting voltage. That’s your marker lights feed. Then do left turn sig. and test to see which wire is blinking, then right, then brakes. Make sure your test light has a good ground.

This is a motorhome. Not a trailer as far as I know.

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by sweatpants

pretend i don’t know anything about wiring lights ( i really don’t) my 75 argosy has bare wires sticking out where the rear lights should be. Four holes, one with 4 wires, one with three wires, and the two outer ones have two wires. The wires on the outside are one green and one white. One tail light has two black, one white, and one yellow, the other tail light has one black, one white, and one yellow. The new cans have one yellow and one brown wire. So how do i do it? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[Sweatpants]

Thanks guys, great help as usual. I know which wire is which now. The 12v tester is a handy gadget to have around and the wiring diagram is wonderful. Where did that come from? I have the chassis and the 75 Argosy owners manuals and there was nothing that detailed in there. That is what I need for this project, details!!
That rear light assembly cover is a mess, it’s got holes, cracks, and some edge broken off, it looks like it might be fiberglass, maybe just plastic. I looked on the forum and found some replacement ideas but I don’t want to cut holes back there. I really would like to keep the original if possible . Any ideas on how to fix it? Could a body shop repair it? Thanks

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Thanks guys, great help as usual. I know which wire is which now. The 12v tester is a handy gadget to have around and the wiring diagram is wonderful. Where did that come from? I have the chassis and the 75 Argosy owners manuals and there was nothing that detailed in there. That is what I need for this project, details!!
That rear light assembly cover is a mess, it’s got holes, cracks, and some edge broken off, it looks like it might be fiberglass, maybe just plastic. I looked on the forum and found some replacement ideas but I don’t want to cut holes back there. I really would like to keep the original if possible . Any ideas on how to fix it? Could a body shop repair it? Thanks

As for as I know there was no manual in 1974, then 1975 and 1976 only had a basic owners manual, but by 1977-78 Airstream published a useful service manual. That image is from the 1977-78 manual. You can find a copy here https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9...DNEUHpYSE9FUXM .

It is useful for the earlier models IF you understand the differences or rather evolution that happened from 1974 towards 1977 (I regard the 1974-1976 models as pre-production prototypes were no two were built the same).

Your light bar can be restored, it is ABS and if you look at what Ernie achieved in rebuilding Peanut's banana wraps (same material). Bella's light bar was in a pretty bad way (in terms of cracks) and the Airstream dealer who re-built Bella wouldn't touch it, so I took it home and used the same MEK/ABS slurry approach to appear all the cracks.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

...That rear light assembly cover is a mess, it’s got holes, cracks, and some edge broken off, it looks like it might be fiberglass, maybe just plastic. I looked on the forum and found some replacement ideas but I don’t want to cut holes back there. I really would like to keep the original if possible . Any ideas on how to fix it? Could a body shop repair it? Thanks

Like Martin said, ABS plastic. it can be "welded" with an MEK mixed with ABS plastic pellets. It's one of those jobs where you do a little work and then let it set for at least 24 hours before you work on it again.

If you're interested I have a light bar from a 78 Argosy that I picked up from John Warden that isn't in to bad a condition. I was going to use it but then decided to use trailer aluminum tail light housings instead. Send me a PM if interested. Shenandoah is only about 90 miles from Lincoln. Sometime this summer I should be heading up I-29 to Lincoln to visit family and could bring it along.

Brad

[Sweatpants]

Thank you,
I want to try to repair the one I have first, if I botch it, which I might, I would be interested in the 78 light bar if you still had it. It will be good practice for when I get ready to repair the inside end caps, they both have cracks. You should come by and see her, I have named her Plan B for several reasons. I have been reading your posts, you are amazing.

[Sweatpants]

Thank you Martin, very helpful, I will read Ernies post and try the ABS and MEK mix. It will be interesting and good practice and thanks to Brad I have a plan B , I have found that you always need one when working on theses old girls. Right now I am stripping and polishing the exterior aluminum trim strips. Do you know, if I take off the bottom strips will the banana wraps fall off? I have been afraid to touch them. I may have to strip and polish them while they are still on the coach.

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Thank you Martin, very helpful, I will read Ernies post and try the ABS and MEK mix. It will be interesting and good practice and thanks to Brad I have a plan B , I have found that you always need one when working on theses old girls. Right now I am stripping and polishing the exterior aluminum trim strips. Do you know, if I take off the bottom strips will the banana wraps fall off? I have been afraid to touch them. I may have to strip and polish them while they are still on the coach.

The upper and lower belt-lines cover the actual fixing rivets for the panels, so although the rivets for the lower belt-line will go though the banana wraps, they will not be the only thing holding them.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

The upper and lower belt-lines cover the actual fixing rivets for the panels, so although the rivets for the lower belt-line will go though the banana wraps, they will not be the only thing holding them.

Yep, the banana wraps are held in place with 1/8" pop rivets.

[Sweatpants]

Originally Posted by martin300662

The upper and lower belt-lines cover the actual fixing rivets for the panels, so although the rivets for the lower belt-line will go though the banana wraps, they will not be the only thing holding them.

Well, that answers that, guess I will take em off. Thanks guys.
Next question: That orange plastic strip that goes down the center of the exterior trim? I bought some from Airstream supply, it looks pretty flimsy, is there something I can coat it with that will strengthen it? I see where others have found it to be pretty short lived. Thanks

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Well, that answers that, guess I will take em off. Thanks guys.
Next question: That orange plastic strip that goes down the center of the exterior trim? I bought some from Airstream supply, it looks pretty flimsy, is there something I can coat it with that will strengthen it? I see where others have found it to be pretty short lived. Thanks

From everything I've read and heard about the stuff available today is pretty much junk. The color seems to fade within a year or so once exposed to UV.

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

From everything I've read and heard about the stuff available today is pretty much junk. The color seems to fade within a year or so once exposed to UV.

Also seems to be unique to the orange stuff, the Airstream silver, blue or black seems fine.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

Also seems to be unique to the orange stuff, the Airstream silver, blue or black seems fine.

That figures....

[GREEN ARGOSY]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Well, that answers that, guess I will take em off. Thanks guys.
Next question: That orange plastic strip that goes down the center of the exterior trim? I bought some from Airstream supply, it looks pretty flimsy, is there something I can coat it with that will strengthen it? I see where others have found it to be pretty short lived. Thanks

Vintage Trailer Supply recommended to use 303 Aeorspace Protectant once or twice each year for UV inhibitors.
I bought black ones, but my Argosy's rub rail had piece of orange one.

[Sweatpants]

Too bad I didn’t know to get the black, I am going to try painting them a glossy red and coat with a hardener/clear coat. Maybe that will help. I didn’t really care for that light orange anyway. I keep changing my mind, but right now I think I want to paint it black on silver. I’d prefer the silver on black but don’t want the roof black. I read on here that it will absorb the sun and make it hotter. Don’t want that.

Thank you all for the awesome responses. You sure are a helpful bunch!!

[Sweatpants]

Can I get an opinion on a new AC unit, since I want to go all 12 V and solar electric I want the most energy efficient one I can find. One that fits the opening in the roof would be most desirable. I am also going to replace the furnace. Propane really makes me nervous and I just want a little outside tank for a bbq grill. I am taking all the gas appliances and the Onan generator out too. I plan on filling that generator cabinet with the solar stuff. I’m rambling��

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Too bad I didn’t know to get the black, I am going to try painting them a glossy red and coat with a hardener/clear coat. Maybe that will help. I didn’t really care for that light orange anyway. I keep changing my mind, but right now I think I want to paint it black on silver. I’d prefer the silver on black but don’t want the roof black. I read on here that it will absorb the sun and make it hotter. Don’t want that.

Thank you all for the awesome responses. You sure are a helpful bunch!!

If you decide to try something different checkout this product on ebay. They do sell samples so you can see for yourself if it will work.

Brad

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by Sweatpants

Can I get an opinion on a new AC unit, since I want to go all 12 V and solar electric I want the most energy efficient one I can find. One that fits the opening in the roof would be most desirable. I am also going to replace the furnace. Propane really makes me nervous and I just want a little outside tank for a bbq grill. I am taking all the gas appliances and the Onan generator out too. I plan on filling that generator cabinet with the solar stuff. I’m rambling��

First question is, where are you going to camp? The reason for asking is this decides how efficient the AC has to be. For example Bella now only camps in Europe, installing two Fantastic Fans (one replacing the original fan, the second replaces the AC) and then a much smaller 110v/1000A heater/AC where the generator was, means I can run the AC from a Magnum inverter and solar, yet it never goes above 80C inside, and a 200w Zamp panel can keep up with the twin coach batteries. However this would be useless if you live in SoCal/Texas or want to attend Burning Man....actually more than that, just the 2 fans can bring the inside temp down from 100F plus to below 80F in minutes.