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Old 06-23-2017, 12:40 PM   #521
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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That was Ernie's suggestions but I vetoed it. The vertical bar is held in place by one small screw at the top and bottom. If that screw shears then the vertical bar can slide around. I think John Warden experienced the sheared screw problem and when he hit a bad bump in his 325 and the fixed window broke.

Personally I think the whole problem is just poor fabrication quality combined with trying to slide a triangular shaped window in a track that isn't parallel.
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Old 06-23-2017, 03:04 PM   #522
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I know it seems making work, but is there any way to remove the screws and the vertical bar, when it is out straighten the bow and so reduce the pull in when it is reinstalled?
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:14 PM   #523
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I know it seems making work, but is there any way to remove the screws and the vertical bar, when it is out straighten the bow and so reduce the pull in when it is reinstalled?
I wouldn't attempt that, since the vertical bar is the Achilles Heel of the Achilles Heel (the entire window unit). It follows the curve of the stationary window and can not be adjusted. Once the factory connection is gone, you have to get real creative.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:24 PM   #524
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I wouldn't attempt that, since the vertical bar is the Achilles Heel of the Achilles Heel (the entire window unit). It follows the curve of the stationary window and can not be adjusted. Once the factory connection is gone, you have to get real creative.
Creative is one way of putting it! The entire window assembly would need to be removed to replace that one little screw. This weekend if the rain stops long enough we'll look closer at the vertical bar.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:35 PM   #525
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Creative is one way of putting it! The entire window assembly would need to be removed to replace that one little screw. This weekend if the rain stops long enough we'll look closer at the vertical bar.
The portion of the vertical bar that is hidden is very thin and often corroded.
I have been trying to find my fix, just can't locate the picture. I mounted a horizontal aluminum flatbar, riveting the vertical bar carefully (away from the glass). It worked well, its just not the prettiest solution.
Another option would be to integrate a fix to a drain channel that was discussed elsewhere.
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Old 06-23-2017, 04:48 PM   #526
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Sometimes a fix just can't be made to look pretty. I'll try and get a picture or two tomorrow weather permitting pointing to the friction area.
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Old 06-23-2017, 06:55 PM   #527
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Brad here is a discussion from a few years ago. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ose-89263.html My fix starts at post 5.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:13 PM   #528
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Brad here is a discussion from a few years ago. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ose-89263.html My fix starts at post 5.
Dan, I hadn't realized so many people had problems with the screw breaking on the vertical bars! I wouldn't be a bit surprised if a good number of the screws are actually broken and things are staying in place due to aged, frozen, stuck gaskets etc.

I don't think Peanut has a broken screw, I think it was just poor construction at the factory. Tonight or tomorrow I'll post some pictures of Peanut's window and also a picture or two of the borrowed 345 cockpit window.

Brad
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Old 06-25-2017, 05:32 PM   #529
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Worked on Peanut's cockpit window some more this afternoon. I'm going to tentatively say we have been successful in getting Peanut's window to open and close properly. Is it perfect, absolutely not but it seems to work ok. I'm going to reserve final judgement until after the drain slots have been cut in the bottom and the track glued in place as recommended.

There were two main issues. One was the top rear corner. The shape was wrong and the glass would try and squeeze the rubber track to the point it wouldn't close any farther. A metal wedge ground to fit the aluminum track allowed us to reshape the track enough that the glass wasn't squeezing the track anymore.

The second issue was at the top where the vertical separator bar joined the top track. The window frame was formed in such away that the joint bowed inwards creating a pinch point for the glass. At a certain point in the travel while closing the outer edge of the rubber track would get forced down and inwards which would then bind the window to the point it wouldn't slide.

I had Ernie do a bunch of grinding at the joint where the vertical bar met the track and he finally got enough ground away that the rubber track is staying put (for now at least) and the window opens and closes. It still takes effort to get the window to slide but we haven't tried any silicone spray as yet.

While looking closely at the 345 cockpit window assembly it was painfully obvious that the contour of the glass slider is not quite the same as the contour of the window frame. The vertical bar has less of a curve to it than the glass does causing a rubbing effect in the center near the latch assembly. All in all it's just a poor window design that we have to learn to live with

Next up is the drivers side slider
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Old 06-26-2017, 04:36 AM   #530
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Sounds great Brad.....looking forward to seeing some pictures.

Next question is, once Ernie has Peanut sorted when is he free to fly over to the UK to do the same to Bella. I am sure Nick would have him do his seals whilst here!
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:16 AM   #531
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Sounds great Brad.....looking forward to seeing some pictures.
I'll try and get some pictures this evening. I tend to forget the camera when I'm hot and tired!

Quote:
Next question is, once Ernie has Peanut sorted when is he free to fly over to the UK to do the same to Bella. I am sure Nick would have him do his seals whilst here!
I'm sure Ernie would enjoy an all expense paid trip to the UK.....

You would likely have to pay for two as I'm sure his wife would insist on making the trip as well

By the time we finished up yesterday we were both frustrated with the whole process of trying to get the window to open and close properly. It shouldn't be this difficult

We almost gave up and were just about ready to try the original style of track and if the grinding at the top of the vertical bar didn't work we likely would have. The cockpit window took way to much time to get working probably but I'm not sure what we could have done differently in our approach. Next weekend we're going to attempt the drivers side cockpit window. It will be interesting to see if things go faster now that we have a better idea of what to expect.

Brad
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:38 AM   #532
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I'm sure Ernie would enjoy an all expense paid trip to the UK.....

You would likely have to pay for two as I'm sure his wife would insist on making the trip as well
Deal!

I have around 600,000 air miles in the bank thanks to decades of living from a suitcase for work, sure I can't tempt you with a third ticket?

Talking of which come the end of the week I meet the 'physical presence' test so should be allowed to re-enter the US without the IRS jumping on me!!!!

I feel a trip coming up soon.....just need to get Gabby and Joseph to loan us their MH
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Old 06-26-2017, 05:38 AM   #533
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FYI John also had an issue with the vertical bar moving, however he elected to jam it back into place and fastened it off somehow. Then he hit a peticularily rough set of railway tracks in the US and the front window exploded into bits and pieces. So taking it out and fixing it properly maybe the way to go as getting the front glass could be difficult and expensive.

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Old 06-26-2017, 06:27 AM   #534
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Deal!
I feel like Ernie's booking agent.....

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I have around 600,000 air miles in the bank thanks to decades of living from a suitcase for work, sure I can't tempt you with a third ticket?
My passports been expired for over 15 years and I always told myself I'm not traveling anywhere anymore where the primary language isn't English. I'm not sure anymore if UK English is the same as US English!

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Talking of which come the end of the week I meet the 'physical presence' test so should be allowed to re-enter the US without the IRS jumping on me!!!!

I feel a trip coming up soon.....just need to get Gabby and Joseph to loan us their MH
Road trip

Have you figured out how and where you're going to obtain license plates for Peanut?
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Old 06-26-2017, 07:08 AM   #535
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Have you figured out how and where you're going to obtain license plates for Peanut?
Well NJ is the first choice, because I have an expired NJ license (which just needs me to do the theory test and pay the fine for not renewing!) and a mailing address (and bank account etc) registered there so meet the residence criteria.

But equally, I maybe better elsewhere....somewhere I don't need to do the theory test or pay the fine!!!!!

Happy to listen to suggestions; didn't you say in Kentucky you need a fire inspection?

Isn't Bob's Eastern edition of the motorhome together coming up in a few months?
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Old 06-26-2017, 09:55 AM   #536
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Well NJ is the first choice, because I have an expired NJ license (which just needs me to do the theory test and pay the fine for not renewing!) and a mailing address (and bank account etc) registered there so meet the residence criteria.

But equally, I maybe better elsewhere....somewhere I don't need to do the theory test or pay the fine!!!!!

Happy to listen to suggestions; didn't you say in Kentucky you need a fire inspection?

Isn't Bob's Eastern edition of the motorhome together coming up in a few months?
Yep, transporting a motorhome in from out of state requires a Fire Marshall inspection and a vin inspection by the Sheriff. That's the main reason my Argosy still has an Arkansas title.

I'm not sure when the Eastern edition is set for. Due to distance and all the other activities I need/have to work on it won't be doable for me.
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Old 07-10-2017, 06:08 AM   #537
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Meant to post this last night but was too tired after wrestling with the wood flooring and walls in my Argosy. Ernie replaced the rubber track on the drivers side cockpit window yesterday. It's true, experience does make things go easier

I had him take a slightly different approach on the drivers side replacement. On the passenger side we installed the grey vertical wiper before installing the glass and I think that was a mistake. Currently on the passenger side anytime you're opening the window the wiper wants to fold under and it seems to increase the effort required to open the window. The passenger side for the most part works better when using two hands to close the window.

Currently the wiper is not installed on the drivers side and you can open and close the window with one hand and it's fairly smooth in operation. Also for the most part the aluminum track on the drivers side was in really good shape. The one oddity was after getting the rubber track in place and while closing the window we couldn't get it to close all the way. About 3 or 4 inches blow the top rear curve you could see the glass squeezing the track and trying to rub against the aluminum track on the inside.

The curve of the track seemed to be fine so I checked the curve of the glass. The glass had a flat spot! You could run you hand along the curve of the glass and you could feel a distinct change in the curve for about 5" and then the curve returned. We figured the odds of correcting the curve of the glass were pretty slim so I had Ernie change the curve of the track to match the glass and the window now closes just fine

I have mixed feelings about installing the grey wipers on these windows. At the moment I fail to see what useful purpose they serve.


Brad
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Old 07-10-2017, 10:34 AM   #538
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I'm with you on the wiper seal Brad.

I have written on the forum before that it appears to serve no purpose, so happy if they are removed so we can see the impact.
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Old 07-10-2017, 11:05 AM   #539
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I'm with you on the wiper seal Brad.

I have written on the forum before that it appears to serve no purpose, so happy if they are removed so we can see the impact.
I think we can make that happen
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Old 07-20-2017, 06:15 PM   #540
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Finally had a minor success on Peanut this evening. Last night I was looking at the front of my Argosy thinking about what would be involved in fitting the new front valance. While looking things over I studied the wheel well trim knowing that I was going to have to fit it in the trim slot and it dawned on me that my wheel well trim was actually in place with just the screws holding the front 1/3 of the outer trim removed. That was one of those Du-uh moments!
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We've been wanting to replace the left front banana wrap on Peanut but the screws for the trim were rusted in place and the couple that I tried to remove the heads just snapped off. I kept thinking the entire outer trim piece had to be removed and wasn't looking forward to the job. Going back to last weekend, I had to remove the rear wheel well trim on my Argosy to get the wheel well covers removed so I could repair some rusted tubing. I found while removing my trim I could use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to cut a screwdriver slot in the screw and turn it out with a big screw driver. I wasn't 100% successful on mine but got enough of them that the couple that didn't weren't hard to deal with.

On Peanut there were 5 screws that needed to be dealt with. The first one I was able to unscrew using channel locks to grip the head and turn. The 2nd one had already been busted previously. The last three I was able to cut slots in the heads and turn them out with a large screwdriver!!!
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That left the screw with the broken head. The only option I could think of was to use the cutoff wheel, grind the head down through the aluminum until it was clear of the ABS of the banana wrap. The key to getting the banana wrap off is to remove all the rivets and screws holding it in place inside the wheel well trim.
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After getting the screws out I was able to hold the outer trim far enough away to gain access to the rivets that need to be removed.
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With this minor irritation out of the way there's a good chance that Ernie and I can get the banana wrap replaced soon. The banana wrap was the last major obstacle standing in the way of finishing the body repairs.


Brad
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