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04-30-2016, 03:23 PM
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#161
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662
I am coming to the conclusion that Brad prefers the look of these motorhomes in pieces.....and Peanut looks more like his motorhome everyday!
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Damn....busted
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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04-30-2016, 03:57 PM
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#162
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Keen amature
1975 20' Argosy 20
Chestfield
, Kent
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler
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Just gotta buy two of everything we need!
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04-30-2016, 04:12 PM
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#163
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662
Just gotta buy two of everything we need!
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So far that pretty much seems to be what's been happening
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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04-30-2016, 04:37 PM
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#164
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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Brad,
Your picture answers your question on access to the lines at evaporator. The liquid line comes straight up from the receiver/drier makes a right angle bend and connects to evaporator. The suction line comes straight through the firewall and also connects to the evaporator. The suction line has a rubber grommet around it with some kind of removable sealant. The liquid line also has some sealant along with a little filler plate to close the hole. FYI the evaporator is held in place by two brackets on the back that are bolted through the firewall from the outside and covered by sealant.
In the case of peanut the evaporator will probably work fine as long as it is clean. There is an expansion valve in the evaporator.
Gregg
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04-30-2016, 04:55 PM
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#165
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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On Peanut's water leaks. My 20 had leaks in the same way after sitting for a number years.
The Front Leak:
On my unit I sealed two areas. I had to strip, primer, and repaint the end cap. The aluminum lamp housings sitting against the galvanized steel were rusty. After cleaning and painting, I put a cork gasket between the lamp housing and painted end cap with butyl calk at the screw holes and the wiring hole.
The second area was the windshield gasket. It was the original gasket. I carefully cleaned the surface of the metal up to the rubber prior to painting. The rubber was masked during painting. After the paint throughly dried, then I masked again and used a small putty knife to slightly lift the rubber gasket and seal with 3M 08609 Urethane window sealant. I have been through a number of hard rains without any leaks.
The rear bath leak through the vent fan on the next post.
Gregg
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04-30-2016, 05:02 PM
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#166
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace
Brad,
Your picture answers your question on access to the lines at evaporator. The liquid line comes straight up from the receiver/drier makes a right angle bend and connects to evaporator. The suction line comes straight through the firewall and also connects to the evaporator. The suction line has a rubber grommet around it with some kind of removable sealant. The liquid line also has some sealant along with a little filler plate to close the hole. FYI the evaporator is held in place by two brackets on the back that are bolted through the firewall from the outside and covered by sealant.
In the case of peanut the evaporator will probably work fine as long as it is clean. There is an expansion valve in the evaporator.
Gregg
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Gregg, thanks for the info. From the looks of it the expansion valve is inside the black housing which would mean removal of the evaporator box to get at it. The question is, is it worth all the effort to replace the expansion valve? That's one of those questions I can't answer
I think the dash top would have to come out to get to it and that would really suck!
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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04-30-2016, 05:03 PM
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#167
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace
On Peanut's water leaks. My 20 had leaks in the same way after sitting for a number years.
The Front Leak:
On my unit I sealed two areas. I had to strip, primer, and repaint the end cap. The aluminum lamp housings sitting against the galvanized steel were rusty. After cleaning and painting, I put a cork gasket between the lamp housing and painted end cap with butyl calk at the screw holes and the wiring hole.
The second area was the windshield gasket. It was the original gasket. I carefully cleaned the surface of the metal up to the rubber prior to painting. The rubber was masked during painting. After the paint throughly dried, then I masked again and used a small putty knife to slightly lift the rubber gasket and seal with 3M 08609 Urethane window sealant. I have been through a number of hard rains without any leaks.
The rear bath leak through the vent fan on the next post.
Gregg
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The leaks you're describing are pretty much the same ones I had on my 74 Argosy. Basically just time and labor to fix.
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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04-30-2016, 06:13 PM
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#168
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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The expansion valve is inside the evaporator. It is my understanding from the folks at Old Air Products that expansion valves don't care what kind of refrigerant is in the system. They just meter flow to maintain a constant temperature in the evaporator coil. Some of the auto systems that used valves operating on pressure do require changing for 134a. If the valve is not stuck or stopped up, then everything should be OK. If it were me I would leave well enough alone.
While I have removed my dash, I would not want to unless it were really necessary. Should you ever need, let me know and I can relate the steps required.
Gregg
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04-30-2016, 06:35 PM
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#169
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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Rear Bath Leak Through The Vent Fan.
First, Argosy in 1977 (and maybe other years) used a Dometic Model GY11 vent fan. Some people call it a mushroom fan since it looks like a mushroom. To install it they replaced the plastic cover with a metal one that you can see outside on the roof. They also removed a little plastic switch bracket and mounted the switch and resister (for two speeds) on the cover inside the bath ceiling. The leak occurs as the plastic air impeller degrades with holes and lets rain leak through the fan to the inside. I looked all over the U.S. and found no one that had knowledge of that model fan - not even the Dometic - US office. This fan is available in Europe and Australia. This fan mounts in a 3" diameter hole whereas all other fans require at least a 6" diameter hole. Also Argosy uses a cast spacer (with a 3" hole) between the outer skin and the inner skin. Not wanting to get into a modication hassle, I ordered replacement fan from www.leisurelines.net in Birmingham, UK and received it in the mail about 10 days later. I think that their price was about 100 pound sterling.
I used the new switch and resister since the old switch was intermittent. Other wise it was a direct replacement and does not leak.
Another place for a leak in the bath is the holding tank vent pipe through the roof in the bath closet. The rubber gasket on the outside deteriorates and requires replacement.
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04-30-2016, 06:52 PM
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#170
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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Old Vent Fan with bad Impeller
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04-30-2016, 06:54 PM
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#171
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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Box for New GY11 Fan
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04-30-2016, 07:31 PM
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#172
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Keen amature
1975 20' Argosy 20
Chestfield
, Kent
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace
Rear Bath Leak Through The Vent Fan.
First, Argosy in 1977 (and maybe other years) used a Dometic Model GY11 vent fan. Some people call it a mushroom fan since it looks like a mushroom. To install it they replaced the plastic cover with a metal one that you can see outside on the roof. They also removed a little plastic switch bracket and mounted the switch and resister (for two speeds) on the cover inside the bath ceiling. The leak occurs as the plastic air impeller degrades with holes and lets rain leak through the fan to the inside. I looked all over the U.S. and found no one that had knowledge of that model fan - not even the Dometic - US office. This fan is available in Europe and Australia. This fan mounts in a 3" diameter hole whereas all other fans require at least a 6" diameter hole. Also Argosy uses a cast spacer (with a 3" hole) between the outer skin and the inner skin. Not wanting to get into a modication hassle, I ordered replacement fan from www.leisurelines.net in Birmingham, UK and received it in the mail about 10 days later. I think that their price was about 100 pound sterling.
I used the new switch and resister since the old switch was intermittent. Other wise it was a direct replacement and does not leak.
Another place for a leak in the bath is the holding tank vent pipe through the roof in the bath closet. The rubber gasket on the outside deteriorates and requires replacement.
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I will give them a call on Tuesday Gregg (Monday is a public holiday in the UK), but I also sent an email to our local Dometic agent (in the UK). They can normal order parts/units direct from Dometic quite quickly.
Denise is in the UK at the moment but travelling over on 10th May (for the Get Together) so the is a chance we can get a couple delivered to our place there and she can carry them over.
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05-01-2016, 05:07 AM
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#173
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace
The expansion valve is inside the evaporator. It is my understanding from the folks at Old Air Products that expansion valves don't care what kind of refrigerant is in the system. They just meter flow to maintain a constant temperature in the evaporator coil. Some of the auto systems that used valves operating on pressure do require changing for 134a. If the valve is not stuck or stopped up, then everything should be OK. If it were me I would leave well enough alone.
While I have removed my dash, I would not want to unless it were really necessary. Should you ever need, let me know and I can relate the steps required.
Gregg
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I'll skip the expansion valve replacement at least for now because I can always remove the evaporator with the radiator in place. That gives me a chance to test the ac first.
Thanks.
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-01-2016, 05:16 AM
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#174
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Thanks for the info on the bath fan! Hopefully it will have stopped raining here by the time the fan arrives
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-01-2016, 06:56 AM
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#175
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3 Rivet Member
1977 20' Argosy 20
Arlington
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 162
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Brad,
Two additional items.
The screws in the headlight assembly that hold the chrome trim around the sealed beam bulbs were just plain steel self threading screws. They were well rusted into place. I had to drill and extract several to get them out. Something that I didn't want to encounter on the road to replace a burned out headlamp. The local hardware store had stainless replacements.
With the radiator out check the power steering pump for leaking around the shaft. Mine was the original from the factory and as I worked on things with running the the engine that old shaft seal stared leaking profusely. With the radiator out of the way access to the pump is much easier.
Gregg
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05-01-2016, 04:55 PM
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#176
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GWallace
Brad,
Two additional items.
The screws in the headlight assembly that hold the chrome trim around the sealed beam bulbs were just plain steel self threading screws. They were well rusted into place. I had to drill and extract several to get them out. Something that I didn't want to encounter on the road to replace a burned out headlamp. The local hardware store had stainless replacements.
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Gee, more good news
I haven't even looked at the head lights yet but they probably should be looked at before Peanut hits the road.
Quote:
With the radiator out check the power steering pump for leaking around the shaft. Mine was the original from the factory and as I worked on things with running the the engine that old shaft seal stared leaking profusely. With the radiator out of the way access to the pump is much easier.
Gregg
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I keep forgetting to ask Martin if he wants the PS pump changed while I'm in there. I had planned on replacing the water pump for the same reason. No better time than when it's easy access! I think I paid about $60 for my PS pump.
Thanks!
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-01-2016, 05:43 PM
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#177
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Keen amature
1975 20' Argosy 20
Chestfield
, Kent
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 3,535
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler
Gee, more good news
I haven't even looked at the head lights yet but they probably should be looked at before Peanut hits the road.
Brad
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When I removed the end grille castings I kept the donor lights attached, so we have some spares.
The sealed units seem relatively inexpensive (H4651 low beam and H4656 high beam units are less than $10 each).
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05-01-2016, 05:59 PM
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#178
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin300662
When I removed the end grille castings I kept the donor lights attached, so we have some spares.
The sealed units seem relatively inexpensive (H4651 low beam and H4656 high beam units are less than $10 each).
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Spares are good!
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-02-2016, 09:19 AM
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#179
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Rivet Master
1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,116
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I taught myself a few new choice words while struggling to remove Peanut's radiator but I'm relieved to say its out
The biggest struggle was the lower radiator hose tube kept hooking on the bottom of the fan shroud as Gregg mentioned it would. I probably fought with it for about an hour before it finally gave up and let me slide it out of there
This is about as far as it would go before the bottom of the fan shroud would hook on the bottom of the radiator.
But it's out and this afternoon I'll be taking it to the radiator shop for surgery.
Lots of access with the radiator out of the way!
After I started trying to lift the radiator out of the chassis I realized that if these two braces had been removed the whole process would have been a whole lot easier. Before the radiator goes back in I'm going to remove the two braces. No sense fighting it both directions.
The downside of the removal was the two transmission cooling lines twisted off while trying to remove them. One tube was rusted so bad that just wiggling the tube cause a slight crack. I ended up cutting them off and will have to figure an alternative way to get cooling lines to the radiator.
Not a catastrophe but certainly frustrating.
Brad
__________________
Air forums # 1674
1974 20' Argosy Motor Home
1975 24' Argosy Motor Home
1974 31' Excella trailer (parting out, as of 4/1/2015 I have wheels & windows left to sell)
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05-02-2016, 03:48 PM
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#180
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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As I mentioned before, I wonder if those Argosy models would allow radiator removal through bottom as I did on my 79 Excella. Appears to be the identical radiator. It was fairly easy to accomplish and i was able to leave the AC connected. Just a heads up if someone else needs to remove the radiator.
This can not be done on 1981 and later Motorhomes
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
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